- Thread starter
- #321
Finally got some springs under her, OME J's all around. Drives better, and looks better.
Builds Cummins 6BT install in FZJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Project FJ80
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #322
Wow, Its been over three years since Ive updated this thread.
Nine years since I started it.
and now I have blown my head gasket after 350,000 miles on the current Cruiser.
Its time I finished this project.
Nine years since I started it.
and now I have blown my head gasket after 350,000 miles on the current Cruiser.
Its time I finished this project.
- Thread starter
- #323
There will be a few minor modifications to this build.
First: It will be done no later than by the end of July this year. (I will have to take 8 the kids to school
) (no not all mine)
Second: I will be running everything stock behind the engine. (No 47re or atlas transfer case... yet.)
Since the last update, I have installed the 3" body lift kit, and I've had no problems with it on or off the road.
I have also installed the snorkel. but have not tested it yet.
Third: I'm gonna upload more pictures.
First: It will be done no later than by the end of July this year. (I will have to take 8 the kids to school
) (no not all mine)Second: I will be running everything stock behind the engine. (No 47re or atlas transfer case... yet.)
Since the last update, I have installed the 3" body lift kit, and I've had no problems with it on or off the road.
I have also installed the snorkel. but have not tested it yet.
Third: I'm gonna upload more pictures.
- Thread starter
- #324
This time around I am going with Dustin's conversion kit from Diesel Adapters.
I'm going to try to document this build for both myself and others who might have a hard time with the instructions. (They have no pictures)
This is my experience thus far:
I ordered my kit the at the end of April. I received just about everything on May 5th.
I sent my harness out on the 24th of April. I am awaiting my Harness + all of the electrical setup and the 3 top radiator components that did not make it out in the main shipment.
Here is what all was sent.
Since I have a few things to do to the 6BT, I figured I would start with Drilling the holes through the front cross member using the supplied template.
F for the Front outside, R for the Inside.
I'm going to try to document this build for both myself and others who might have a hard time with the instructions. (They have no pictures)
This is my experience thus far:
I ordered my kit the at the end of April. I received just about everything on May 5th.
I sent my harness out on the 24th of April. I am awaiting my Harness + all of the electrical setup and the 3 top radiator components that did not make it out in the main shipment.
Here is what all was sent.
Since I have a few things to do to the 6BT, I figured I would start with Drilling the holes through the front cross member using the supplied template.
F for the Front outside, R for the Inside.
- Thread starter
- #325
Started my pilot hole and started cutting. So far so good. The new hole-saw bit that was supplied cut through like butter. It is a close cut next to the welds. No mercy when it catches.
The last pic shows one of the pass through tubes inserted.
The last pic shows one of the pass through tubes inserted.
- Thread starter
- #326
The inner side is a little more difficult.
If you have a full size drill you will find that you can not fit in between the passenger side. Its harder to see, but on the Drivers side you hit the bracket causing you to have to drill at an angle.
A battery powered drill helps on the drivers side. Plenty of space on the passengers.
If you have a full size drill you will find that you can not fit in between the passenger side. Its harder to see, but on the Drivers side you hit the bracket causing you to have to drill at an angle.
A battery powered drill helps on the drivers side. Plenty of space on the passengers.
- Thread starter
- #327
Unfortunately for me, My template holes did not line up as they should have, and I was unable to get the tubes to go through. I had to break out the sawzall. It seems as, if I would have used the TOP F holes, everything would have lined up, with out any additional cutting.
Its not too big of a deal. at least you wont be able to see it, and it wont matter after they are welded in.
Its not too big of a deal. at least you wont be able to see it, and it wont matter after they are welded in.
Glad you are back at it! That kit looks nice. Are you planning to keep the stock transmission when you go to an atlas tcase? If so are you going to change out the rear axle as well? drive shaft angle with the atlas to the stock axles will produce some vibrations.. So thats why i am a asking..
- Thread starter
- #329
No. I still have the ATS transmission and computer controller. the Atlas 4sp is also already setup for the 47re, and the engine will already be where i want it.
I will probably leave the rear axle as it is, until it breaks. Or when I can get away with buying a new one. Ill have to get a custom fuel tank first due to the center output of the drive shaft.
I don't know about the vibrations. Ill have to cross that bridge when I get there. maybe a dbl cardan on the rear drive shaft ?
I will probably leave the rear axle as it is, until it breaks. Or when I can get away with buying a new one. Ill have to get a custom fuel tank first due to the center output of the drive shaft.
I don't know about the vibrations. Ill have to cross that bridge when I get there. maybe a dbl cardan on the rear drive shaft ?
- Thread starter
- #330
A good time to replace the engine and transmission mounts. after 350K miles.
Installed the new bell housing
Installed new water pump, starter, killer dowel pin, front seal and pressure washed.
For this kit, the oem starter for 1997 fits with no issues.
Installed the new bell housing
For this kit, the oem starter for 1997 fits with no issues.
- Thread starter
- #331
They say to use a heavy duty non fold-up, non-harbor freight engine hoist.
That was all I had, and it worked for me. I did air down the tires and kept an eye on everything.
But I would recommend something a little more stable
They also recommend to remove the entire drivetrain, and then to install it as one piece.
I left the drivetrain attached, and just removed the engine.
I also installed it with the exhaust manifold off. And I believe that made the installation a little easier.
So far so good
Don't forget to take the rubber cap off the Torque Converter If you used it to keep from spilling out the little amount of fluid you are able to prime it with.
Over all not too bad.. I think it might have taken me all of 15 minutes to stab it in place and then it just slid right in.
That was all I had, and it worked for me. I did air down the tires and kept an eye on everything.
But I would recommend something a little more stable
They also recommend to remove the entire drivetrain, and then to install it as one piece.
I left the drivetrain attached, and just removed the engine.
I also installed it with the exhaust manifold off. And I believe that made the installation a little easier.
Don't forget to take the rubber cap off the Torque Converter If you used it to keep from spilling out the little amount of fluid you are able to prime it with.
Over all not too bad.. I think it might have taken me all of 15 minutes to stab it in place and then it just slid right in.
- Thread starter
- #332
Here are a few pics showing some of the clearances you are left with. Just before its bolted to the frame.
I do have a 3" body lift, so I will have better clearance in places compared to installs that do not.
Its a tight fit back there. but there is space.
I also chose to keep my floor heater hard lines, vs gutting them and replacing them with heater hose.
No rust issues in Arizona.
I do have a 3" body lift, so I will have better clearance in places compared to installs that do not.
No rust issues in Arizona.
- Thread starter
- #333
Another hidden area is to make sure you seat the engine mount tabs with in there slots on each side of the frame.
Before I was able to get the mounts lined up, I had to adjust the transmission placement.
I was unaware that the Transmission had to be moved back in order to accommodate the engine.
(This was not said in the instructions)
I don't have a solution for this yet. Add (weld/bolt) a plate to increase the width and drill new holes to match?
Engine is bolted in.
Before I was able to get the mounts lined up, I had to adjust the transmission placement.
I was unaware that the Transmission had to be moved back in order to accommodate the engine.
(This was not said in the instructions)
Engine is bolted in.
- Thread starter
- #334
While I am waiting for the rest of the kit to come in.
I came across a few issues. The first one, I noticed while just admiring my handy work.
You can see that I have pinched the hood latch cable in between the brake booster and the fuel filter housing. I had to loosen both engine mounts to rock the engine just enough to pull the cable out of its housing, which is attached to the brake booster. After that, I cut the clip part off with a sawzall.
(Had I have known my next issue, I would have just left it attached.)
My next issue came up when I got a hold of Dustin.
I explained how my lower intercooler piping did not line up because of the fuel heater that was in the way.
I was told that that was to be removed, and I no longer need that part. I would completely remove the fuel heater + bracket and find a spacer to keep the original fuel pump in place.
(This was also not in the instructions for you following along at home)
So, I did not install this piece at this time. with out instructions Id have to find another way to route the kit.
you can see the heater housing just above the tubing and the lift pump with the primer.
It is easier to remove this while the engine is out of the Land Cruiser, But not impossible.
its hard to see but there are 2 10mm bolts on either side of the lift pump.
Don't remove those until you remove the 2 hard fuel lines attached to the pump and heater.
This makes the job easier.
After you remove the 2 bolts the whole bracket comes loose. and you can figure out how to best remove the assembly from the vehicle.
I came across a few issues. The first one, I noticed while just admiring my handy work.
You can see that I have pinched the hood latch cable in between the brake booster and the fuel filter housing. I had to loosen both engine mounts to rock the engine just enough to pull the cable out of its housing, which is attached to the brake booster. After that, I cut the clip part off with a sawzall.
(Had I have known my next issue, I would have just left it attached.)
My next issue came up when I got a hold of Dustin.
I explained how my lower intercooler piping did not line up because of the fuel heater that was in the way.
I was told that that was to be removed, and I no longer need that part. I would completely remove the fuel heater + bracket and find a spacer to keep the original fuel pump in place.
(This was also not in the instructions for you following along at home)
So, I did not install this piece at this time. with out instructions Id have to find another way to route the kit.
you can see the heater housing just above the tubing and the lift pump with the primer.
It is easier to remove this while the engine is out of the Land Cruiser, But not impossible.
its hard to see but there are 2 10mm bolts on either side of the lift pump.
Don't remove those until you remove the 2 hard fuel lines attached to the pump and heater.
This makes the job easier.
After you remove the 2 bolts the whole bracket comes loose. and you can figure out how to best remove the assembly from the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #335
Happy Mothers Day!
Its been a year since I started this project using Dustin's Diesel Adapter Kit.
I am Still Waiting for my Wiring Harness, the Electronics, the Upper Radiator Neck Assembly, and the Throttle Cable, TPS and Assembly.
Its a good thing I have an extra vehicle that I can drive while I'm waiting for Dustin to send me the rest of My Parts....
I could also use another 45 deg. boost elbow as the straight piece that was sent needs to have a bend in it. And, I think the adapter plate I was sent might not be finished. Where it was milled out for the Tensioner on the front side... IT looks like it should have been milled out on the back side for the A/C relocation Bracket to fit into.
I also had to remove the engine due to the fact that I used the transmission adapter from the 97 engine and not the one for the 89-92 engine. After I changed that out.. and bought another Starter that fit that adapter,.... The transmission lined back up where its supposed to.
Also, If your doing this conversion....or are using ideas from this conversion... his water heater adapter that goes in the rear of the block... you need to put that in before you install the engine...It wont install afterwards.
Its been a year since I started this project using Dustin's Diesel Adapter Kit.
I am Still Waiting for my Wiring Harness, the Electronics, the Upper Radiator Neck Assembly, and the Throttle Cable, TPS and Assembly.
Its a good thing I have an extra vehicle that I can drive while I'm waiting for Dustin to send me the rest of My Parts....
I could also use another 45 deg. boost elbow as the straight piece that was sent needs to have a bend in it. And, I think the adapter plate I was sent might not be finished. Where it was milled out for the Tensioner on the front side... IT looks like it should have been milled out on the back side for the A/C relocation Bracket to fit into.
I also had to remove the engine due to the fact that I used the transmission adapter from the 97 engine and not the one for the 89-92 engine. After I changed that out.. and bought another Starter that fit that adapter,.... The transmission lined back up where its supposed to.
Also, If your doing this conversion....or are using ideas from this conversion... his water heater adapter that goes in the rear of the block... you need to put that in before you install the engine...It wont install afterwards.
I feel your Pain Brother.
My FJ80 got stolen about 4 years ago and I'm slowly but surely building another.
Keep on with the updates there are a lot of us interested in the 6BT install.
Here's mine, old (Orange) and new.
My FJ80 got stolen about 4 years ago and I'm slowly but surely building another.
Keep on with the updates there are a lot of us interested in the 6BT install.
Here's mine, old (Orange) and new.
chappohj47
Chappo Built
Hey black bull was your shop at north Richmond once
- Thread starter
- #339
bump
- Thread starter
- #340
Happy Fathers Day
