Cummins 2.8T Diesel Engine Swap

[bikersmurf]

I see both sides of the discussion. To put it in perspective, I was considering spending $2k to put a 3B into my 40. Given the amount I drive it I calculated it would be at least 5-7 years before I’d break even and start saving any money.

Now consider the 2.8...
5x4.5=22.5 7x4.5=31.5
So the break even point, not factoring in maintenance cost, would be 22.5-31.5 years down the road. Given the direction things are going, I’m not certain diesel fuel will even be available for passenger cars in 2050.

As for range, with the stock fuel tank and the Man-A-Free type tank my range is an easy 400 miles.

Conclusion...
When my ‘70 $350 SBC died after 21 years, I replaced it with a ‘72 $300 SBC that sparkled inside and only had 70k miles on it. Even with the new exhaust, gaskets, and incidentals, I’ve got at least $9k USD extra for fuel (which is about $12.5 CDN these days) and travel expenses.

And I’ve always got a bigger ‘97 rig with a 7.3 if I want diesel... the whole rig has only cost me something like $4k USD and it’s a very reliable rig.

 

[120mm]

And what about the VW swap vs the cummins r2.8

Price
Hp and torque specs
Adapter and wiring
Easy to find new or used parts
And more

VW TDI 140 hp, 236 torque
Cummins R28 160 hp, 320 torque

I have no ideas how the torque curves compare, though I imagine a 2.8 is superior on the low end to a 2.0.

You should be able to find a VW engine cheap, though I bet the Cummins is easier to adapt, since it's sold as a swap in "kit".

I'd be interested in how well supported the VW engine will be. BTW, one of the reasons I won't put a Toyota engine in my pig next, is that Toyota has a nasty habit of withdrawing support of legacy engines. The ONLY reason I bought a Land Cruiser in the first place was that it was built stout, and will last; having key components become obsolete kills that for me. Frankly, I can keep a 1975 Chevy Blazer running longer and cheaper.