cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation

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Yeah mate that's the the new ute hj75 12ht just about to change the tyres the old ones are egg shaped so in The last 6000kms every thing has come loose and rattles but I can fix the rattles now and they shouldn't come back the next thing is a new turbo probably a GTurbo the old one leaks oil
 
Nice one! The 12H-T is a great donk. Any bites on the 47?
 
Yeah mate the 47 sold about a week and a half ago to a local bloke
 
chappo - dont know much about turbo's regards serviceability. do know that mudder 'splangy' is looking for a 12ht turbo and few associated bits. he is helping me out greatly with some rare oddments for my rusty 61 on the 25 page so i'm throwing his name in the ring if you wish to unload your old turbo.
 
Thanks west the turbo won't be for a while trying to get a new job to save for it I will contact him when I am changing them to see if he wants it
 
Gotta love 'Mud eh lads!

Waited and waited for the shed to open today - finally got there at 2.30. Jumped straight into aligning the gearbox and engine. Got the input shaft in, didn't bump the fork or the throwout bearing off their perches and began using Shane's patented 'wiggle, wiggle' technique. You're free to use it, but remember it is copyright so you'd probably need to change it to 'wriggle, wriggle' or something to avoid litigation. Got within an inch of home so I chucked in two of the four bolts to keep the show straight. There were only two bolts left [the joys of a shared workshop - we won't discuss the tool hunt I had to perform] so I dropped them in on diagonal corners and began torquing them up to marry the two together. I know the splines are aligned because I can turn the rear driveshaft flange and the crank pulley turns. Success! I tried torquing it all the way home but it became very difficult to turn the reciprocating masses so there's something not quite lining up. I'm gonna say the shoulder of the smooth part of the input shaft is binding on the bearing. So I'll go to the bolt shop tomorrow and get two more bolts. Hopefully they square it all up a bit better and I can get this fkn thing in.

I did already go to the bolt shop for the tow missing bolts [but we won't go there either] and I also picked up a length of threaded rod to make inlet manifold studs and a tapered blank off nut to delete the heater hose fitting that exits the head pax side near the firewall forward of the temp sender. Got no heater, plus this is Qld - the heater is that big yellow thing in the sky.

Got to go up to my new job tomorrow and get inducted, so hopefully I'll be updating this thread on Thursday..
 
Slow down mate something is wrong and it sounds like the splines or spigit is giving you problems. Pull it down and double check everything as you can stuff the clutch if it not lined up right when you toque the gearbox in.
 
You're right, something is wrong but I should clarify: the engine and trans is sitting on the floor. So it's probably only out by a whisker, but it can't be the splines because the engine turns with the box. I'm not rushing the job - but I am ready to actually drive my ******* truck. I'll check it all again on thursday.
 
yea sounds spigot. perhaps a light emery polish of the spigot part of the input shaft to remove any burs from dragging it around the shop floor. and a tiny bit of lube there. did you renew the spigot bearing? this 2f was probably mated to a 4 speed previously. not sure if they are different bearing but def worth proper investigation before you try and force this. i have had to change spigots on other mix and match tojo combos i have attempted. it should just 'fall' home when all is right. pull it apart again cult; the wiggle wiggle plate lineup will be quicker the second time round!
 
west it's an F.5. But I will pull it again and check. Can the spigot bearing be pulled easily or is it pressed in?
 
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Right then. Here's the actual update. Got into the shed around 9am and pulled engine and trans apart to find alignment problem. Found none so I tried again. Got stuck a half inch out again. Pulled it again. Got stuck again. Stopped. Thought. Went to another bolt shop [this time with an example of my missing bolt(s)] to discover they're a 13mm x 1.5 pitch and NLA. Awesome. It's important to note that no other bolt on the F will fit. I know because I have two of them there. So I start thinking about the bell housing and the gearbox and how it's all situated and I begin thinking about tapping and drilling and grinding cast braces [only a whisker to buy some real estate] as I drove home to the shed. Got there and looked at the gearbox. It was then that the great bolt hunt began.

Shane pointed out to me the exact industrial bin that the cleaned up bolts went into. So I dove head first into that mthrfkr. I think the natural habitat of the abandoned bolt is the very very bottom of whichever bin it's in, but soon I found the stash and began comparing to the one firmly in my grasp. I started a pile of similar sized and pitched bolts and about twelve bolts in I let out a great roar. I found that poor little guy amongst discarded beer bottles and empty paint tins. He was so far from home. Awwwww.

I took my bolt collection back to the truck and swore that anyone cleans up my ******* bolts - borrowed shed/help/expertise or not - I'd string 'em up then and there. Cleaned the thread out and presto - it worked. So now I had three factory bolts and and one close-to-factory bolt.

It was around about this time Shane stuck his head in my corner and pointed out THAT MY CLUTCH WASN'T ALIGNED. I undid the pressure plate bolts and aligned it by eye, tightened them back up and married the two halves home. I used the bolts to pull it home but this time the crank pulley was free enough to turn. Of course it was, the bloody input shaft was actually home! Around about this time I began scratching around on the floor amongst my new bolts collection [courtesy of the JJ Richards bolt storage facility] and I actually found another 13mm x 1.5 pitched bolt. I don't know where it came from or how or what but I whacked that sucker in before it could change its mind, its pitch or go and get lost again. Attached the chain to the motor-trans assy. [I get to call it that now], popped the gearsticks and jacked her up.

Shane got re-involved at this point and we began the careful task of lowering and rolling the engine-trans assy. :D in place. Had to drop the drivers side bell housing ear off as the mount is a bit of a PITA to get up and over, but we got it in and got the pax side mount bolted through and rested it on the front two mounts. It was then that I used a bottle jack to jack up the bell housing on the drivers side, reattached the DS bell housing ear and landed that one too. Two down, two to go. As per Shane's advice I took the chain off the crane and attached it to the front of the engine only, giving me more manoeuvrability. Undid the bottom side of the engine mounts so I could align the top side into the front ears, got half a dozen threads turned and called it a day.

Now is a good time to let everyone know I've never pulled an engine before and I've never changed a clutch. When I did my frame-off BJ42 back in 2001 the drivetrain stayed in the frame. So yeah, lots of lessons learnt over the past few days. Lucky I had Matt, Andrew [sneaky], Pete [84TROOPY], Shane and the rest of 'Mud or I'da been up s***s creek in a barbed-wire canoe. Oh and sneaky - your air tools are safe and dry.
 
Great to hear some progress is being made..
Drop into an exhaust shop for new manifold studs. Not an uncommon size so they'll should have them in stock. And they're cheap!
 
Its amazing how much you can learn when you have a go at it yourself (with a little help). Well done.
 
Thanks lads. I've got several trips planned if and when this donk runs like it's supposed to. If not there's one trip I'll definitely be making haha and that's back to the seller with a BFH. Trust is an all or nothing proposal. If you trust someone and they're right you and he are legends. But if it's the opposite there's grief all round.

A quick list of things to button up:

Get a leaky RTM tyre fixed.
Reattach handbrake.
Slot shift levers back in.
Replace fuel line.
Reinstall starter.
Pull down and re-kit fuel pump? - maybe just run it.
Check oil delivery tube up to rocker assy.? Are they the same as the earlier F?
Finish torquing down carb.
Reinstall rad, t-stat, overflow bottle.
Button up damaged wiring from engine swap [leather harness joiner was perished and tore in half].
Install mechanical oil pressure gauge into cab.
Check oil pressure before running.
Time engine from TDC.
Change trans/transfer and axle oils.
Drive.

Then in a few weeks or months I might look at wheel bearings.
 

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