cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation (2 Viewers)

[ozcrusier]

So with a dual circuit you need one line running to the front then the T to both front brakes . Then another line running to the back then T to both brakes so if one circuit fails the other will still have fluid to pull you up.

 

[cult45]

Yeah oz I get it mate. I get it 100%

What I'm enquiring about is whether or not you can run a dual circuit master cylinder down through a dual circuit tee [on the chassis] and then onto single circuit brake shoes and wheel cylinders.

 

[sneaky]

So you want this sort of a set up?


TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 45 55 FJ45P-B - POWERTRAIN-CHASSIS - BRAKE TUBE CLAMP | Japan Parts EU

 

[cult45]

So you want this sort of a set up?

My birthday is coming up..

 

[cult45]

Was talking to west today and he reckons just run the single circuit. 'Run it son!' is what he said.

 

[sneaky]

My plan is to do similar to above, but with discs and removing the restrictor from the master cylinder.

 

[Indestructible 47]

sounds like a good plan I can't see there being any problems, west is wise!

 

[cult45]

My plan is to do similar to above, but with discs and removing the restrictor from the master cylinder.

And changine the bolt pattern on the firewall. Are you getting all new hard lines made up?

 

[sneaky]

I have the hard lines from the donor diff and what's been used to run the separate booster. I figure if I need any others our friend at Moorooka has numerous chassis sitting round to scrounge something of the approximate length.

 

[cult45]

I have the hard lines from the donor diff and what's been used to run the separate booster. I figure if I need any others our friend at Moorooka has numerous chassis sitting round to scrounge something of the approximate length.

Yeah true. And it's not like they're moving parts so it should be all good. Nice one!

 

[cult45]

Well. Lots happening, both in Cruiser land and out. Been speaking to some lads I know and I'm very fortunate to be able to find myself within reach of an entire rust free, straight ute cab in 416. So I've decided to do the Clemson Cruiser by cutting it back and polishing it and then bolting the whole thing on. I say within reach cause it's not in my possession yet, and parts are coming from everywhere, but things are looking up. What I do have, courtesy of the me old mate the Woodford Dirt Trimmer, is a pair of doors, and after a few hard days at work I decided to treat myself to repairing them today. Got about 8 hours in them so far, and I took them from surface rusted, seized and broken bolts and perished felt and rubber like so:

..with a bit of cutting compound:

..and a bit more:

..and a whole door:

The only major rust was below this corner, so I trimmed it off, ground it, converted it, primed it and painted it and will leave it as is. The rubber will seal over it anyway.

 

[cult45]

My housemate is a panel-beater spray-painter and has offered to clear the entire truck for me, so I've got to get moving. ASAP. He's good on the gun too. I did some research for parts for the re-cab and after some mild heart attacks at the pricing I went dow to Clark Rubber and sourced window channel and door rubber material. The jusry is out on the rubber [need a cab to bolt the doors to, to see if it has enough or too much spring], but the window channel felt is great. The old perished s*** that came out was 10mm and this is 10mm. $127 for two and a half doors for both the felt and the rubber.

 

[cult45]

Devoted more time to those damn doors. They're just about done but I have no fingers left from cutting them back. Still, driving a 45 on stumps is better than not driving a 45 at all..

I basically traded liquor for oxy-acetylene to get these cracks handled. Tried to keep the heat contained but it wasn't always possible. Now we clear and attach rubbers!

 

[cult45]

A whole Sunday yields a wire wheeled, primed and painted pair of front frame horns and bumper; some brake hard lines removed and this. Turns out underneath that horrible house paint job was something akin to 416. Grill shot in black, badge masked up and shot in black, bib cut back to stock and bezel cut back.

Used to look like this:

 

[cult45]

Spent an hour late last night cleaning up the instrument cluster. Partially disassembled, cleaned the dust out, lubed the workings, washed the glass, cut the facia back and reassembled. NOTE: white lithium grease in a spray can likes to strip odometer paint if you use a little finger pressure to clean it off. My first #9 is now a #7! Good enough for this truck anyway

 

[sneaky]

That's one way to wind the clock back!

What's going on? This truck is getting all purdy and gussied up! Have the boys with the shiny trucks been giving you a hard time?

 

[cult45]

That's one way to wind the clock back!

What's going on? This truck is getting all purdy and gussied up! Have the boys with the shiny trucks been giving you a hard time?

Well mate I'm outta here soon and I figured if I was gonna leave this truck with my old man I'd at least have to leave him something roadworthy and respectable. The clock just got wound a heap faster and so it's all systems go.

 

[cult45]

Got all the brake hard lines pulled and the frame mostly painted. There'll be touch ups when I pull the body off, but until then it's good. Satin black. I just wish I had the time to blast the frame. The front bumper looks sooooooo nice, even if its a little crooked.

 

[cult45]

Took all the hard lines down to the shop. He's on the case. Sealed up all the union bolts. Pressure washed the frame. Painted it. Started Inox'ing the cab mounts. Pulled down, cleaned and regreased a door handle assy. Got some new engine mounts fabbed up - gonna grind off the old ones and bolt the new ones in.

Yuck:

Not so yuck:

 

[sneaky]

Looking good. Are you going to recreate the faded racing stripe on the doors?