Crazy Starter (1 Viewer)

[Moe R]

I was cruising down the road and I hear this high pitch whine so I pull over to listen and it stoped, got it home pulled into the garage and there is the whine again. I can hear it's the starter motor and I can smell something burning. I quickly shut the motor off and it stoped with a loud klunk. Needless to say the starter is fried (it got really hot) and now won't turn over. Thoughts on it being rebuildable? If yes where is a good place in CT to get it done? Thanks

 

[cruiser_guy]

Any electric motor place should be able to rebuild it.

 

[exmodlad]

I have a 12v 3B starter if you need one..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/parting-out/214567-3b-engine-parts.html

Best Regards

Gord

 

[Moe R]

Aside from a faulty ignition switch, what would make it flip out like that?

 

[amaurer]

I actually had the same thing happen, but caught it before the starter burned out. For me it was the ignition switch doesn't fully spring back to "run" on its own; you hafta turn it out from "start" by yourself. I'd done it countless times subconciously but then one day I must have changed my technique somehow.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Aside from a faulty ignition switch, what would make it flip out like that?

The contacts probably welded themselves together. That's an easy repair that you could do yourself. If the motor is burnt (which it probably is now) then you either need Gord's starter or a rebuild at an electric motor shop.

 

[Moe R]

I'm kind of an electrical dummy but are the contacts the brushes? I have an FSM and nowhere does it mention contacts.

 

[amaurer]

The contacts are for the solenoid, housed in the box on the starter next to the motor. You can remove the back panel to view them. You'll see a plunger with a round copper disk on it that contacts two copper plates beneath it. If the plunger got welded to the plates you have your culprit.

These pictures were from when I was troubleshooting the same problem. As I said, mine turned out to be the ignition switch, so make sure you start with the easy stuff first.

 

[Moe R]

Thanks
That's the only part of the starter the FSM dosen't explain. Excellent pics, I know exactly what your talking about.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Take a good look at the copper that the disc contacts as well. They almost always wear unevenly and you'll likely see one side worn much more than the other. The contacts and plunger are available easily. I have part numbers posted in the parts thread.

 

[wesintl]

I wouldn't mess with rebuilding the contacts. New reman from toyota is like 100 or 120

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/155071-3b-starter-died.html

or buy gords..

 

[Moe R]

Take a good look at the copper that the disc contacts as well. They almost always wear unevenly and you'll likely see one side worn much more than the other. The contacts and plunger are available easily. I have part numbers posted in the parts thread.

That statement truely gives huge clairity to my situation. From what you wrote, I'm sure there will be uneven wear because many times, when I tried to start the engine I would get only a click and after a few attempts the starter would engage and off I go. The uneven wear would create a situation where I would not complete contact and experence the click. Good stuff Cruiser Guy. Many Thanks !

 

[cruiser_guy]

I'm sure there will be uneven wear because many times, when I tried to start the engine I would get only a click and after a few attempts the starter would engage and off I go. The uneven wear would create a situation where I would not complete contact and experence the click. Good stuff Cruiser Guy. Many Thanks !

Sounds like you might have waited too long though. Contacts and plunger are like $20 and you can replace them in an hour if you're half way good with a wrench.

 

[Moe R]

Yeah. I think your right. The click thing only happened once in awhile so I lived with it. I thought it might have been a relay. Hope it's not too expensive of a lesson. I hope others with the same problem will learn from this. Thanks again!!

 

[Moe R]

The Carnage

It definatly welded itself.Is the plunger suposta just slide out? Cuz it's seized.

 

[wesintl]

yeah.. you can take the top stud nuts off to. that'll help you get the plunger and contacts out. hopefully your motor is still good. I replaced my contacts. It helped slightly then i'm sure the contacts on the motor were shot. buying the parts and replaceing all of it wasn't worth my time anymore compared to what a toyota reman was.

 

[Moe R]

Wes, where did u find your reman and what do they go for? I wouldn't mind getting one thats been fresh so to speak.

 

[wesintl]

the 12 v from toyota 28100-54090-84 which is a 2.5 kw gear reduction. then swap the nose cone. It was like $120 from toyota. I'll sell you my almost new contacts from my old one if you want.

 

[Moe R]

I hate to sound too stupid but is the nosecone the magnetic switch?? Mines fried.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Moe R, the plunger should slide out easily followed by a spring and ball. You might be able to get it out if you take the nuts on the outside off and push the two bolts back in so the contacts are free of the housing. I'm not sure if there is enough room for that though so you may have a little work on your hands.

The nosecone is the part with the plunger/contacts (basically what you have pictured) so you'd need to fix yours to take advantage of the cheap rebuild.

Is your truck a 24v or 12v BJ42? Canadian trucks are 12v and I think Aussie trucks are 12v.