crankshaft position sensor location? 1996 LC (1 Viewer)

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I have an obd 1 motor in my 97, swapped over the crank sensor and intake manifold.

Maybe the ecu is swappable? And that is how you are running ok? Did you see the check engine light flash on start up?
Well I researched online about crankshaft position sensors CPS and I found out some cars will not start at all, while some will rough idle, others will have poor acceleration , stalling and CEL. I only driven the LC 1 time bringing it home and it was smooth driving. So I still have know idea what the PO did to this truck. I guess if I pass smog here in CA I will continue building it. Any advice here would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Just would like to share this little tool I made for removing the crank bolt. It is a 1-1/2 pipe flange. I got lucky and the holes line up almost perfect! just need to make the holes a 1/16 bigger . And that bolt is strong! Teared one off the piece of metal I welded on the flange.

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Well I researched online about crankshaft position sensors CPS and I found out some cars will not start at all, while some will rough idle, others will have poor acceleration , stalling and CEL. I only driven the LC 1 time bringing it home and it was smooth driving. So I still have know idea what the PO did to this truck. I guess if I pass smog here in CA I will continue building it. Any advice here would be appreciated. Thanks.

If the check engine light does not come on when the key is turned to the run position (engine off) the vehicle will automatically fail the emissions test.
 
@cruiserdan I know this issue has come up a lot over the years, but does that mean not "plug-play" swappable or not at all, or not without cash amounts that would be better used on a stand-alone? I realize that engine/tranny combo plays a role here too.
 
Agreed on the home built crank tool. For all interested; the bolt holes on that pipe flange will be the same at any plumbing shop from Washington to Maine. (For same pipe flange anyway)
 
To the OP, that flange looks galvanized. That stuff is nasty for both welding and grinding, did you get down to bare metal under your weld points?
 
@cruiserdan I know this issue has come up a lot over the years, but does that mean not "plug-play" swappable or not at all, or not without cash amounts that would be better used on a stand-alone? I realize that engine/tranny combo plays a role here too.

I'm not sure I fully follow your question.

If you mean swapping computers along with engines it really isn't feasible. For instance the 93-94 has two computers, one for the engine and one for the transmission. The 95-97 uses one computer to run everything.

One other consideration about putting an early setup in a later truck is that it will fail any necessary emissions test right out of the chute because there will be no OBDII diagnostic port.

It is fairly simple to put the later crank position sensor ring, oil pump drive gear and later oil pan in an earlier block. That is provided you know to do that before you stab the engine in the truck.

If I were going to build a 1FZ to have hanging around for a rainy day I would use the exciter ring and later gear regardless. It won't do anything in a 93-94 and it is a must-have for a 95-97.
 
sorry, I was merely referencing an earlier post regarding swapping ecu's
 

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