Crank Pulley Wobble

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I am working on correcting a wobble in the crank pulley on my '76. I have the radiator off (needed a flush) so that I can take a closer look at the pulley. I have seen some threads where the retaining nut on the pulley was loose and it only needed tightened. I am planning on removing the pulley to take a closer look at it to make sure that there are no cracks or other damage, but I thought I would ask others if they had any experience with a similar situation. Does anyone know what size bolt I will need for a pulley remover? Also, kind of a dumb question, but does anyone have a recommended coolant to use once I have flushed the radiator?

Thanks,

Ian
 
...does anyone have a recommended coolant to use once I have flushed the radiator?

I like Toyota Red, but it must have small gold flakes suspended in it, for the price of it these days. :eek:
 
Coolent? Just the green stuff in your cast iron machine.

I've never needed a puller to remove the pulley, and I've removed several. I have the socket for that big nut that holds it on ... somplace.
 
Does anyone know what size bolt I will need for a pulley remover?

Use a good quality coolant like Prestone or Toyota. I prefer the full-strength stuff and mix it myself.

I'm not sure about the bolt size on your engine but if it is the same size as the 1FZ-FE crank bolt then I also have one and a 3/4" breaker you can borrow to remove it. The 1FZ-FE needs 305# to tighten and I had to use the starter method with the 3/4" breaker for removal.

-Mike-
 
I have the socket and puller if you need it as well. Best of luck.
 
I had a similar issue a couple years ago on my '76. The nut on the pulley is 46mm IIRC. I was able to break it free with a shot from my 1/2" impact gun, and once the nut was off the pulley came off without much trouble. In my case, it turned out that the pulley key had been mangled (probably because I ran with a loose pulley for too long). I got a new one from Toyota, and put a speedi sleeve (bought from Napa) on the pulley to clean up the grooves. Everything's been AOK since I put her back together.

Hope this helps.

Edit: I think the torque on the bolt was like 140 ft lbs or something like that - not nearly the torque of the 80 series, but you still need a pretty hefty torque wrench along with someone to try and apply brakes and keep the engine from moving when you crank her down.
 
140ft/lbs is doable with just yourself. I did a 2UZ crankshaft bolt using a chain wrench and 1/2" ratcheting breaker bar and IIRC the torque on that bugger is about 130 ft/lbs.

But Matt is right, no where near the 305ft/lbs needed for the 1FZ.

Good luck.
 
Use the green **** and be done with it.

And if you buy the full concentration that needs to be diluted, make sure you use distilled water to get it to the recommended dilution percentage (which is typically 50/50 in our climate)
 
Drive Pulley Update

Here is an update on my crank pulley issue. With Paul's help we were able to remove the crank pulley to get a better idea of what was going on. It looks like the threads on the crank pulley have been damaged as well as the crank shaft key. It looks like the crank pulley and crank shaft have been damaged from where the key had rubbed on both of them. There was also a spring that I assume is part of the seal which is also damaged. I was wondering what everyone thought would be the best course of action to fix the issue. I am guessing that a speedi sleeve would help with the thread damage on the pulley, but as the key damaged the pulley and crank I am thinking that they both might need to be replaced.

Crank Shaft Damage
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Crank Shaft Damage #2
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Crank Pulley Key
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Crank Pulley
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Crank Pulley
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Thread Damage on Crank Pulley
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Ian,

I have a 2F crank you can have. I might also have a 3FE pulley, though I'm not sure how it would work with your accessories. The pulley closest to the engine is a different size than the 2F. No belt on that pulley? Then you should be OK since the other two are the same.

I do have a 2F pulley, but the rivets were mugged by the impact socket.
 
Pappy-
That would be great! I think the 3FE should work as I am not using the inner ring on the pulley. The crank would be great as well, any time that would work for me to stop by? PM me and I can stop by and to discuss what you want for the parts, $$, beer, etc. I appreciate your help!!

Ian
 
Typically that spring comes with a new seal. I think it provides a little rigidity and compression of the sealing surfaces onto the shaft.
 
Thanks to everyone for the advice and the parts/tools offers. I have been super impressed with the help you guys have offered to me despite not even knowing me....yet. I am hoping to make it on the Xmas Tree run, although I may have to bring the 4Runner or ride shotgun with someone with an empty seat.

Thanks!!

Ian
 
I am hoping to make it on the Xmas Tree run, although I may have to bring the 4Runner or ride shotgun with someone with an empty seat.

Ian

Either option will work just fine. Bring the Runner or let us know if you'd like a lift as we start planning the trip. There are always seats available.
 

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