Cracked Exhaust Manifold
- Thread starter cjonezy
- Start date
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Yep
Big oof. Ouch.
Looks like another crack forming on the opposite corner.
Looks like another crack forming on the opposite corner.
That's cast iron.
If it is cast iron, also, can be brought back.
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Flap can be removed, holes tapped, and the only loss is the warmup in cold climates. Thread holes , NPT, anti seize threads, good to go.
Its basically scrap. Even if you are able to make a repair on the crack, it will need to be machined which will cost you more $$$ than a used manifold. Some welding alloys for cast iron work are not machinable.
You can always ditch the heat riser, put on some new gaskets and roll with it. You may have a microscopic exhaust leak but I would bet money that you can drive for a good long while like that. I've driven turbocharged vehicle with cracked iron manifolds for years.
You can always ditch the heat riser, put on some new gaskets and roll with it. You may have a microscopic exhaust leak but I would bet money that you can drive for a good long while like that. I've driven turbocharged vehicle with cracked iron manifolds for years.
If you're in TX, I'd either replace it, or ditch the heat riser and or have it welded by a good shop familiar with cast iron. The last thing you need in TX is more heat under your carburetor.
- Thread starter
- #11
Look like I am going to have to source a used exhaust manifold for a 1F. The flapper didn't scare me but the cracks on both sides of the "flange" might give me issues later. I might see what a shop would charge to grind them out fill em up and machine them.
Kind of unusual to crack an exhaust manifold in that spot. Makes me think that your engine may be running LEAN. What carburator are you using?
- Thread starter
- #14
Original carb. I am wondering if I cracked it when I was trying to drive out the flapper pin.
Also, an excellent excuse to buy a header as long as you have a later non-siamese port head.
Not really unusual when years have probably locked the flap , and it is always heating that area. The idea of a flap was to bimetal spring when cold to heat the carb. After warmup , flap stops directing heat as it is not needed.
What did you use for the weld material ?
- Thread starter
- #19
It's a 60% copper 40% zinc alloy. I can find out the exact material tomorrow for you.
Nice looking repair! Hope it holds as good as it looks!
