Couplers/ Hitches/ and other trailer Connecting Devices. (1 Viewer)

[ntsqd]

I kind of disagree with the "only frame mounted recovery points" mantra. I've seen more than a few where in spite of their obvious intention for use as a recovery point it would have been stronger to use the socket receiver trailer hitch. I'm not saying to always use the trailer hitch, just to look at what you're connecting to and give it some consideration before doing anything. And don't be deceived by something that appears to be OEM or something that someone says "looks strong enough".

That said, there is a body of history in using true pintle hooks (closed!) with recovery & tow straps. My own pintle is rated for 20k pounds service load. Not max load, service load. The minimum Factor of Safety for something like that should be 2:1, if not 3:1+. So reasonably it will survive a 40k short term loading. None of my recovery straps are rated over 30k, so the straps will fail far before the pintle will.

Summarizing, trailer hitch ball as a recovery point? Really, really bad idea because when (not if) it fails the ball will become a deadly missile.
Trailer receiver hitch with appropriate insert or just the pin when the load direction allows it? The hitch design needs a good looking at and with consideration for the mfg's rating.

 

[John E Davies]

My Treg is no longer available from any US seller, but you can still order one from Oz. I have used mine for twelve years and it is still great, though a lot of the plating is gone from the main pin and the C coupling where the poly block rubs. You can buy a locking pin for it. I sometimes use a small padlock in place of the retaining pin at the bottom of the main pin.

Vertical range is plenty adequate for anything but extreme rock crawling, lateral is limited by trailer contact with the tow vehicle, roll is unlimited.

I really like the coupler. It has been proven in the worst Outback conditions and is very popular Down Under. It is dead quiet in all situations. If I ever need to replace mine, I will probably buy another. I really like their Hand Brake version, but unfortunately it will not work with an extendable tongue.

http://www.tregtrailers.com.au/poly-block-couplings/

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[Brentbba]

Some of my $.02. I know Dave Druck has used both the Lock n Roll and the Max Coupler. From what I recall he went back to the LnR coupler, but dont' know why.

I've got an older LnR coupler that has the classic bent twist on the trailer side coupler. Doesn't seem to have affected it's capability or use at this point. Is this something the 'newer' design has resolved from them. They aren't cheap, so unless I've got a potentially unsafe condition, I dont' want to drop the coin.

I think Max Coupler has solved it's issue of a pin working itself loose too.

 

[SaltCreek]

I work at Great Lakes Forge, makers of Lock N Roll. The hitches new design has zero binding issues and also many other improvements, which is why so many are going back to Lock N Roll. It used to be that Lock N Roll was more of a side project in our forging shop but Lock N Roll has become the number one product we manufacture and has been redesigned and streamlined. For about the same price as a Max Coupler you get a hitch rated almost twice as high (LNR is Class 4 - 11,000 lbs vs Max Cplr class 3 - 6,000lbs) and a more convenient latching system. if you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

 

[titanpat57]

I work at Great Lakes Forge, makers of Lock N Roll. The hitches new design has zero binding issues and also many other improvements, which is why so many are going back to Lock N Roll. It used to be that Lock N Roll was more of a side project in our forging shop but Lock N Roll has become the number one product we manufacture and has been redesigned and streamlined. For about the same price as a Max Coupler you get a hitch rated almost twice as high (LNR is Class 4 - 11,000 lbs vs Max Cplr class 3 - 6,000lbs) and a more convenient latching system. if you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

wish you guys luck...

a few updated product pictures would be nice..

 

[SaltCreek]

Thanks. There's a lot of photos at https://locknroll.com/gallery/gallery-category/ including cross section view of the bearing and an animation demonstrating the articulation.

 

[Metal Twister]

X's 2 ... if there is a web site we can eyeball these things at it might increase your production a little. Nice to have someone here that actually builds them. Thanks Jumping in and posting on your 1st post!

 

[jonharis]

My Treg is no longer available from any US seller, but you can still order one from Oz. I have used mine for twelve years and it is still great, though a lot of the plating is gone from the main pin and the C coupling where the poly block rubs. You can buy a locking pin for it. I sometimes use a small padlock in place of the retaining pin at the bottom of the main pin. Vertical range is plenty adequate for anything but extreme rock crawling, lateral is limited by trailer contact with the tow vehicle, roll is unlimited. I really like the coupler. It has been proven in the worst Outback conditions and is very popular Down Under. It is dead quiet in all situations. If I ever need to replace mine, I will probably buy another. I really like their Hand Brake version, but unfortunately it will not work with an extendable tongue. http://www.tregtrailers.com.au/poly-block-couplings/ John Davies Spokane WA USA

X2 on the Treg! 100% happy with mine in every conceivable condition. They may be available individually through Adrenalin Campers.

 

[Brentbba]

So if I've got the slide in tube on both the truck and trailer side I'd be looking at the 501/510 combo?

 

[SaltCreek]

So if I've got the slide in tube on both the truck and trailer side I'd be looking at the 501/510 combo?

Yes, the 501 and 510 would definitely work unless you need a drop/rise option like the 511 or a 503 with a 505 for an adjustable height.

 

[Brentbba]

ok. I use an upside down 4" riser now and trailer is not quite level. Any sales/coupons coming up?

 

[SaltCreek]

ok. I use an upside down 4" riser now and trailer is not quite level. Any sales/coupons coming up?

We're planning a sale on Sears.com but I'm not sure of the details or date. If you'd like, I can send you private message when I know more.

 

[spressomon]

X3 for the Treg...came with our former Kimberley Kamper. No issues whatsoever.

Had a first gen Lock n Roll, that came with our former AT Horizon. It developed play, was noisy and I didn't like the way it allowed the trailer to track...not a fan.

 

[cruiserpilot]

X2 on the Treg! 100% happy with mine in every conceivable condition. They may be available individually through Adrenalin Campers.

View attachment 863387

Do you have any pics of how that hand brake works? You are in GJT aren't you, I go there all the time. I know Hugh at Safari. If you are I'd like to see your trailer.

 

[jonharis]

Do you have any pics of how that hand brake works? You are in GJT aren't you, I go there all the time. I know Hugh at Safari. If you are I'd like to see your trailer.

PM me next time you are headed this way. I still have the camper although I'm working of selling for a new model from the same company.

 

[cruiserpilot]

With a light duty trailer like Jonharis has, I presume the trailer does not have brakes. So he is using an axle with brakes, but only as a parking brake? That would be easy to rig up.
My idea is to use a 40 or 60 rear axle on my trailer, so I could theoretically rig up an emergency brake such as above on that axle? Could an electric brake controller be set up to work with a 60 series rear axle, for movement braking? Then rig up the emergency brake as well? I like the idea, anyone see flaws?

Sorry if I am off topic of the original thread. Ideas tend to spread out like a spider web to me sometimes, actually always....

 

[John E Davies]

My idea is to use a 40 or 60 rear axle on my trailer, so I could theoretically rig up an emergency brake such as above on that axle? Could an electric brake controller be set up to work with a 60 series rear axle, for movement braking? Then rig up the emergency brake as well? I like the idea, anyone see flaws?

It would be much simpler to just order and install a Dexter axle with their P-Brake units. You could hook up the two parking brake levers via cables, and leave the electric brake magnets disconnected if you like. But it makes sense to connect them and use a controller, even on a lightweight trailer. Mine has a typical towed weight of about 750 pounds and it has brakes.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/59536-Dexter-10-x-2-25-electric-brakes-with-parking-feature

http://www.nickstruckparts.com/k23-086-00.html

Plus the Dexter axle would be hugely lighter than a Land Cruiser axle.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[ntsqd]

Simpler in the US. Not sure about cruiserpilot's native lands.

There are electric over hydraulic trailer brake actuators. Not sure that I'd go down that path. It is bound to be expensive.

From the looks of it I suspect that the p-brake handle on that Treg coupler assembly could be mounted elsewhere. For that matter any similar such handle from the junkyard could be employed.

 

[jonharis]

With a light duty trailer like Jonharis has, I presume the trailer does not have brakes. So he is using an axle with brakes, but only as a parking brake?

I have electric brakes on my camper. I highly recommend them for off-road use, regardless of weight. The added control in technical terrain is appreciated. You are correct in that the integrated lever in the Treg operates a parking brake. The cable that you see threaded through the assembly terminates at each hub.

 

[Metal Twister]

So are there any other couplers being used out there. The goal of this thread is to get a much feed back as possible an a variety of couplers. Any home builts?