correct anti-knock sensor CONNECTOR removal method? (1 Viewer)

[John Young]

Hi all, well I finally got around to getting a floor jack and some jack stands so I could take off the driver side front wheel to access the dreaded 52-55 error code sensors. Even with that it is not easy to reach.

The connector on my truck looks to be in good shape and I don't want to force it or break the connector taking it off to replace the sensor, but I can't seem to figure out how to safely remove the connector.

This is a new sensor plugged into a spare harness which I bought in case the connector on the truck's wiring harness got damaged. But how do remove it? I tried shoving a screwdriver of a couple of different sizes in the slot and nothing seemed to happen, and I can't seem to squeeze it hard enough to make it do anything. I'm sure it is obvious but can someone tell me how to remove the connector off the sensor safely?

 

[ajax1]

Squeeze down on the release with your thumb and with the other hand take a pocket screw driver and stick it between the sensor and the plug gently push the screw driver toward you while holding the plug depressed

 

[John Young]

Thank you Ajax! It worked like a charm. I had to use plier on the new one but I managed to remove the connector safely on the old one on the truck by squeezing and wiggling only by hand.

Then of course I discovered that my socket set only goes to 24mm, so it is off to the tool shop tomorrow.

Thanks again-you saved me from destroying the connector by sticking a screwdriver into it.

Edit: If anyone looks at this thread in the future, I understand you need a 27mm deep socket for removal of the sensor.

 

[John Young]

I went out today and got a 27mm deep socket and after a little bit of fiddling (the more extension and universal joints you have, the better) got both old sensors out:

The were both newish looking which leads me to believe they were changed during the maintenance in Dubai before I shipped the truck over.--or maybe it was done by the PO--I did not drive the truck much in Dubai. Normally my guys use OEM parts. Anyways the front connector was obviously new and the rear connector is damaged--missing the locking part. I'm going to replace the rear connector tomorrow, but just to see the result I ran the truck in park for 10 minutes and no CEL if I raced the engine, which is what used to happen after about 5 minutes of running time. I suppose it could be load-triggered, but I'm choosing to be optimistic.

While I've been poking around under the hood I've seen some more trouble waiting to happen:

That's the back of the alternator and the connector wiring is just kind of blodged on there. That's gotta go.

 

[John Young]

That connector REALLY has to go:

The best one I found was a Sumitomo plug kit:

 

[John Young]

I was fiddling with the rear connector when it simply fell off, so it was time to fix that. This puzzled me for a little while:

Until I realized it was shielding.

After a fair amount of effort I got a new connector on:

Unfortunately after all that I took the truck out for a test drive and the dreaded 52 55 CEL came back. It did seem to take just a little longer but that may be my imagination.

Suggestions anyone?

 

[Kernal]

Did your 52 (knock sensor) code go away or is it still there?

 

[John Young]

Yes it did, but I don't think it really did. The 52 (and originally the 55) did not show up until the car was warm. So I suspect the 52 will show up again when I fix the temp sensor connection issue.