Coolant spraying out of the water pump when thermostat opens.

[Cman]

Hey. I replaced my timing belt today and it ran perfectly for 10 minutes. I believe around the time the thermostat opened, coolant started pouring out of the water pump between the pump and the thermostat housing. This is the place where you"make" a gasket. I'm using this stuff:

Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3.35 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ka3NXQaz4ALs6

I admittedly didn't use a lot of gasket sealer, and I will redo it, but could there be another issue putting back pressure on that area?

What is the proper"burping" procedure for adding back coolant?

Thanks!

 

[Julian Stead]

Make sure the jiggle valve is at the top, I use a coolant filler funnel, this raises the water level to make burping easier. You can park on a uphill to try and achieve the same effect, I rev the engine with the rad cap off until the thermostat opens then refit cap, run then until fan starts to activate, then switch the engine off and recheck the level when cold. Fill up when required during this procedure.

 

[2001LC]

First, make sure mating surfaces are spotlessly clean not a spec or scratch.
Second, make sure to use a new O-ring, applying soap water (Important) it's to aids in install. Not a drop of sealant or FIPG here.
Third, I'd only use Toyota 1282B FIPG.
Fourth, must be assemble in 3 minutes of applying FIPG, that included torquing so be ready. Make sure you use a torque wrench,
Fifth, once assembled let sit-up for a long time before adding coolant. Adding coolant to soon even a drop on the FIPG and it will leak.

Burping: Fill radiator and reservoir. Run until engine reaches operating temp, with cabin heat temp set on high front and rear.

Let cool down over night. Then fill radiator to top and fill reservoir about a 1/4 to 1/2 full.

Repeat, but this time only fill reservoir to just above low line. That is after filling radiator to top.

Repeat until systems no longer draws down radiator or reservoir. You should see reservoir near empty each morning after cool down and near high after engine at operating temp for awhile (Long drive in traffic)

Note: If reservoir not emptying (at or below low) but radiator keeps being below neck under cap. Check cap & thermostat for serviceability.

Also be aware; coolant level in reservoir on cold morning after 8 hour cool down will lower, and will be higher on a hot day.

 

[2001LC]

I've done some editing above make sure to re read!

 

[Cman]

@2001LC So helpful! I might go with Permatex GREY as it's more suited to water pumps (and various internet searching claims it's OK). I don't have the time or resources to buy the official stuff. I did not torque the bolts, but I have a torque wrench. I will do it properly this time.

A few questions for you:

1. Is any sealant required required for other connections (inside thermostat housing, behind water pump)? I didn't add it anywhere else.
2. In your burping method, are you running without the radiator cap on?
3. Have you used a coolant filler funnel? Would you recommend someone inexperienced to use that?

 

[2001LC]

Good luck with none Toyota FIPG (Form In Place Gasket). Coolant leaks' are number one engine killer we have on the 2UZ-fe. The 1282B stuff is pricey but is best you can get. I "bit the bullet", and use like it was made of gold, keeping in cool dry dark area. Mechanic from non Toyota shops buy the various FIPG's from Toyota. The black that states oil, as you picture, is for oil not coolant and will leak one day.

1. No, sealant only goes on square opening of water inlet to water pump. Fill the grove so that it as if a round wire was place in it filling entire grove mounting out, or a little more. You can scrape a bit off before install if you overdue it. You don't want it going inside the water pump or water inlet . You see just a little on outside when done.

2. No, except may be run engine a little, during initial fill faze.

3. Not sure what a "coolant filler funnel" refers to. I do have small funnel I place in/on radiator neck/mouth, then pour into that.

Always replace any gasket, seal or O-ring that have be removed.

Do you have the FSM. Doing a timing belt job is very difficult without. For that matter doing any mechanical work is. Procedure and torque specs is what it's all about, other than cleanliness of course.

If you look at The Redbaron and Snowy in my signature you'll find helpful tips and procedures.

 

[Julian Stead]

A coolant filler funnel is like your standard funnel but it seals at the top of your radiator.

The advantages of this is that it is easier to keep an eye on the level, you just fill it up and if the level drops suddenly then this supplies your system instantly, it also raises the height of your coolant level so the air burps easier because the radiator height is almost the same as the engine. If the coolant expands this also allows for expansion without the coolant going all over the floor. If you leave it attached when the engine is cooling it will also top the system up when it is needed.

So it makes the system open vent with a higher level expansion bottle.

You don't require one to do the job, it just gives more consistent results, less mess and gets the air out easier. We used to have a pressurised filling system but I always chose the funnel.

Would I buy one to do just my car, probably not. I already had it in my arsenal and use it everytime.

 

[Cman]

Thanks @2001LC . I got her started last night with no issues (Heater T's Leaking, ordering new clamps).

I did follow the FSM through the installation of the Timing Belt, but i didn't properly use the section for the water pump. My fault for sure.

I did a few things wrong on install:

• Used wrong oil type gasket maker. I scraped SUPER clean and replaced with "water pump approved" gasket maker. I bought the Black gasket maker based on this 90K timing service thread :Successful 90k Service with Videos
• Didn't add enough gasket maker. Only a thin bead and possibly some "lite" sections.
• Didn't torque. This is a major issue because, unlike a lot of bolts, these push in the top metal fitting AND tighten the seal properly. This is 100% not a place to skip torquing because you can't tell by feel if the unit is all the way on.

Anyways, it's running now and dry. I'm slowly adding coolant and i'm not seeing any other issues... yet.

Thanks!
Cman

 

[fj55-100]

make sure you clean the grove on the housing