Coolant leak with heater valve closed (1 Viewer)

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Don't forget the fly wheel from the torque converter, free it up by undoing the bolts thru access hole, why are you pulling? If going thru engine and you don't have air impact I'd remove the crank before separating so you can lock it up thru the fly wheel
 
It's out and on the stand. No issues getting it out, didn't break a single electrical connector. I started pulling parts off the engine. Does the lower intake usually take some persuasion? I'm pretty sure all the fasteners are off. I'm planning to get the head off I the morning, then off to the machine shop, as soon as I pick one.
 
The upper is off? Lower should pretty much fall off once all bolts are out there are two I think in the back you could have missed
 
ajax1 said:
The upper is off? Lower should pretty much fall off once all bolts are out there are two I think in the back you could have missed
Click to expand...
Yeah. Upper is off. I've removed 10 bolts and one nut, I think. I tapped on it with a rubber mallet, but it seems pretty firm. The fuel rail doesn't hold it on, does it?
 
I don't remember but I think there are 2 nuts pull the studs also, I'd pull the fuel rail off and injectors
 
I dropped the head off this morning. I hope to have it back by early next week at the latest. I chose to just pull the engine rather than the whole drivetrain. The FSM doesnt show this method, but I did it this way for a couple reasons. I didnt want to open the ac system since most of the parts were just recently replaced and working great. This meant that the condenser had to stay in place and everything would have to be lifted over the condenser. I didnt trust my hoist to lift that whole assembly that high. I lifted the engine with it set to 1ton capacity and was able to clear the condenser without lowering the front end. My shop is also pretty small and I didnt have room for the transmission and tcase on the floor. Here are a couple things that may be helpful to others.
  • this thread has some good info procedure for pulling the 1fz-fe
  • Disconnect the ac compressor and strap it to the frame, no need to break open the ac system
  • go ahead and cut the nut and bottom of the studs that connect the exhaust manifold to the downpipes. you can order new studs and nuts. I easily spent two to three hours trying to break these loose. Two of them came out and I decided to cut the other two after a 5 foot breaker bar didnt do anything. I also tried heating, cooling, penetrant...in the end, just cut them.
  • Its actually pretty simple to disconnect the transmission. Just disconnect the torque converter bolts through the access hole. As mentioned in the thread above, getting to the top two bolts on the bellhousing can be done by removing the engine mounts and lowering the engine while the transmission is supported by a jack. You dont have to remove any interior components, other than the glove box to disconnect the ECM.
  • it helps to have another person lifting the engine while making sure the torque converter stays put, and also watching for interferences.
  • when lifting, i found that I had to hold the transmission hard lines towards the drivers side to clear the back of the engine. To give them enough flex, you have to remove the bracket that connects them to the bellhousing.
  • after removing the engine, i reinstalled the trans crossmember and then supported the front of the bellhousing with a strong strap around the frame and below the front of the bellhousing. The crossmember alone will not support it.
Removing the cams/head:
  • I had a copy of the FSM printed out and there are disclaimers about breaking the cams or the head. I was pretty nervous about this part, but if you just follow the directions, its pretty straight forward.
  • follow the directions for head bolt removal
  • Once the head was off, i reinstalled the cams in reverse order as they came out. this holds all of the shims/lifters in place for transport. The machine shop will need the cams anyway if they are going to set the valves for you.
 
Is it necessary to remove these and replace the washers?

plugs.JPG
 
Regarding the post and picture above, I can't find anything in the FSM that says to replace these, but the overhaul kit came with new washers. I'm inclined to replace them, but don't have any info on torque specs and no idea how difficult they will be to remove. If anyone has done this, are they difficult to remove?
 
LSUfj said:
Regarding the post and picture above, I can't find anything in the FSM that says to replace these, but the overhaul kit came with new washers. I'm inclined to replace them, but don't have any info on torque specs and no idea how difficult they will be to remove. If anyone has done this, are they difficult to remove?
Click to expand...

Well that is annoying...
 
IMG_3766.JPG
Head is back from the machine shop. I've got all new heater hoses, vacuum lines, tstat, water pump, and freshened up injectors ready to go in. Hope to get back to work on it this weekend. Got the engine cleaned up and ready for oil pans and new rear main seal.

What's the consensus on replacing freeze plugs? No signs of leaks, so thinking no.
 
You pulled your engine on the 8th and are reassembling already? That's pretty quick work by mud standards. Nice job!

Re: freeze plugs, if they weren't leaking or corroding before, I wouldn't mess with them.
 
Yeah. If I had planned parts orders better, it could have been done last weekend. I had the head back in 3 days. I had to wait on injector rebuild and most of the hoses I had to order. I also sent off my driver seatbelt to safety restore since it was undriveable for over a week. Pretty excited to get it back together.
 
I might be too conservative, but if we're me I'd replace the freeze plugs. If you're working on your '93 they're almost a 1/4 century old. You will never have better access than you do right now.
 
IMG_3790.JPG
Despite the great advise from ajax1, I didn't remove the crank bolt before I pulled the engine. The FSM shows a tool to hold the crank while removing the bolt. I have doubts that the 2' long tool they show would actually work. I made one out of some crap that attaches to the two threaded holes in the balancer. Worked like a charm.

Engine is back in the 80 and I hope to get it driving again this weekend.
 
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