procedure for pulling the 1fz-fe

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Dec 26, 2014
Lubbock Texas
Im going to pull the motor on my 93 FZJ80 to do an overhaul. In several threads regarding pulling the 1Fz-fe, the FSM is referenced. Is there instruction on pulling the motor in the FSM? I sure can't find it in mine. I was hoping for a step by step procedure instead of just diving right in and unbolting things.
Definitely look at the fsm. I helped a friend recently and I'm sure there were a few things that we did the hard way. We had a lift and it took about 4 hrs. The top transmission bolts were the most difficult part.
Thanks for the replies. I do have an actual FSM but I must be missing parts of it. It is only 500 pages. It has sections dealing with engine assy and disassembly but not removal. Oh well, I'm not in a hurry. I'll take it slow.
If you are going to be removing the head or going through the motor at all you need to get an actual FSM or you will not get the proper torque values. You may also be missing the procedures for removing then retiming the camshafts. Lots of stuff in there that needs to be done by the book. Downloads trollholes free copy and print what you need or go to the Helm website and get you a factory reprint of the actual FSM.
I just got my head gasket R&R video from a forum member. I haven't watched it but it is on the list of things to do for me.

I am mostly solo on my HG so that and the other leaks I am chasing, I figured doing it on the engine stand would be the best way by far.
just dive in, unbolt things as you go. I removed everything from the front of the truck, bumper, rad, headlights, rad supports, might as well just cut most of the hoses and replace them anyways so that saves some time.
remove driveshafts
I cut the exhaust off above the frame but if you're keeping it maybe pull the header
unscrew the shifter knob for the 4hi/4lo selector so it'll slide down through the boot, it bolts to the top of the transmission and you need to unbolt it and remove it or drop it down the side of the trans, it gets hung up on everything. I lowered the trans with a jack about 3" after unbolting the crossmember and reached up and unbolted it.
the wiring harness can be a pain, easiest to unhook it from the ecm behind the glovebox pull it through the firewall and unhook it from the truck so it can come out as 1 piece with the motor. unhook the O2 sensors.
Remove battery and battery tray.

Drain oil.

Remove battery cables from starter and block. Remove ground from firewall.

Remove starter.

Remove exhaust

Remove throttle and cruise control cables

Disconnect the transmission harnesses near the starter.

Unhook the ecu side of the harness and pull it into the engine bay.

Unhook fuel lines (feed, return, vapor)

Drain coolant and remove hoses (radiator, heater) and radiator.

Remove grille and front bumper

Properly remove refrigerant from a/c system and remove compressor and condenser.

Unmount transmission cooler and carefully locate to the side.

Remove upper radiator support and vertical support and unhook hood release cable.

Unbolt power steering pump and locate to the side with bungee cord.

Unbolt power steering reservoir and strap to side (keep upright to prevent spillage)

Remove torque converter inspection cover.

Turn engine with crank bolt and remove all torque converter bolts.

Remove bolts from transmission hard lines attached to engine.

Remove nuts from engine mounts and attach engine hoist.

Lift engine and remove rubber mounts.

Lower engine slightly and remove upper bellhousing bolts.

Lift engine slightly and Support transmission with floor jack and remove remaining bellhousing bolts.

Begin to separate engine and transmission but watch the torque converter. Attempt to keep the converter in place in the bellhousing to prevent a massive transmission fluid spill. (Do not pry on flex plate! )

Remove engine and have heavy duty engine stand ready.

That's cliff notes version.
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Just to add to the excellent list detailed above:

Soak the s*** out of all exhaust manifold and downpipe bolts. Some folks leave the manifold in place, some folks don't.

Unbolt the a/c compressor and lay it on the pass side fender area. No need to open up the a/c system unless you're out of freon and need to recharge.

remove the top radiator support radiator and grill per above. A slight PITA radiator bolt on the driver side, next to the headlight. Search for tips, hints

Pizza, beer, weed....

gently lay the a/c condenser toward the front while leaving the piping connections intact. This will give you more room for the engine to swing forward. A big help if you're moving the entire drivetrain as one piece.

After you undo the bolts from the transmission, engine mounts, remove the front wheels and lower the front of the 80. Some folks don't have the head room for a cherry picker so this helps out a quite a bit.


Some folks are against the use of impact tools but I go ape s*** with them when it comes to removing fasteners. However when installing, I do most things manually or very carefully use the pneumatic ratchet. If I'm gonna get carpel tunnel, it's going to be, well, from you know what....!

LOTS of beer, weed, advil, etc

If you can swing it, remove the entire drivetrain as an unit. Given the age of our rigs, replace the seals between the trans/Tcae, maybe the Tcase output shaft bearings and other hoses and such. I know, this is a slight scope creep but to be honest, doing this PITA project all at once is easier than piecemealing out for the next few years as things go south. Just a suggestion.

PS: I'll be swinging through Lubbock with a moving van and a tow dolly on Jan 31st. Can't stay long since that's only the half way point but if I can assist, just hollar.
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Thanks for the info! That will get me started in the right direction. Ali, I may take you up on that. im taking lots of photos so I'll post them when I get time.
To add to ChiTown's post:
There is a harness that flops over the transmission bell housing and connects to the side of the tranny and goes on over to the o2 sensors.
To get the plug out of the transmission, use a really long screwdriver to press the tab while you pull the connector. There isn't room for both hands up there.
The o2 portion of the harness will be clipped into the frame. If you save the clips, you are lucky.
I installed my engine with the harness attached to everything and bundled up. Worked like a champ!

Going in:
Also, be damn sure the torque converter gets slid back about 1/2". It has a nub on the front that enters the crank. If that gets bound up, you will take a bath in tranny fluid and have it all over your shop floor. Learn from my experience! If the converter follows the engine out, life starts to suck really fast!

And get a bunch of zippy bags and use old business cards to ID what it's from. My mistake was not writing a sequence number on the cards. That would have saved me time.

Similar to ^^ I highly recommend writing notes / labels on 3x5 cards cut in half placed inside the plastic bags. I have tried writing on the bag and it always rubs off. Also I bought some of the Brady labels and it has really helped keeping track of everything and they stick pretty well to greasy stuff.


Good thread. Will help out lots of ppl in the future.

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