Cooker's Expedition M-416 Build
- Thread starter Cookeab
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #23
At this point I was sick of doing the tub, so I picked up some s**** steel and fabbed up a bumper. The tow points are only for flipping the trailer back over if need be. I also plan on adding some square tube underneath for a receiver to hold a platform for firewood, kids jeep, etc.
- Thread starter
- #24
At this point, I cut the tub for a tailgate. I measured for a couple of hours and then let it rip. I also fabbed up a combo of angle iron and square tube for support. This all took forever. Then I realized I was a little off for my door width, so even though I spent forever and a day measuring, I had to drill out a bunch of spot welds and redo it.
Then, after redoing it, I decided I wanted to do it differently. Also, the drilling and welding of the 18 gauge in back around the door frame had left the back pretty thin and uneven, so I cut it all out again and this time patched the back panel with 16 gauge.
All told, I have been working on this for a couple weekends on and off.
Here are the results
Then, after redoing it, I decided I wanted to do it differently. Also, the drilling and welding of the 18 gauge in back around the door frame had left the back pretty thin and uneven, so I cut it all out again and this time patched the back panel with 16 gauge.
All told, I have been working on this for a couple weekends on and off.
Here are the results
- Thread starter
- #25
So I ordered up a CJ Tailgate from Quadratec, and ordered the hardware to fasten it. The hinges were too long, so I took my trusty dewalt, cut them, and re-welded them back together for a good fit. A word to the wise, I had taken most of the paint off prior to welding, but some inside the hinge still was there, got hot, and smelled awful. Make sure to have very good ventilation. I was essentially doing this outside, but would hold my breath while welding, and then walk away to breathe. Anyways, here is the door fitted and the bottom of the hinges tacked on. I test fit the door with the weatherstripping Im going to use, and it is almost perfectly flush (with a little room for paint). This took a while as well. Now I just need to figure out how I will install the paddle lock, and which one to order. Then onto the custom fenders, lid, tongue box and other numerous items that need to be done.
- Thread starter
- #26
At this point I was sick of doing the tub, so I picked up some s**** steel and fabbed up a bumper. The tow points are only for flipping the trailer back over if need be. I also plan on adding some square tube underneath for a receiver to hold a platform for firewood, kids jeep, etc.
Forgot to point out that I fabbed up some shock mounts for the axle tube from some 1/4 inch plate i had laying around, and my angle grinder. Took a while to get them uniform, but worked out nicely. Ive seen a lot of people just flip the plate over and run their shocks more horizontal, but it doesnt seem to me that would offer much help in bumpy situations. I guess it doesnt really matter unless youre pretty loaded down, because the springs are seriously beefy, and if the trailer is empty, I suspect it will hop all over the place.
Wow..looks like an awesome project..damn nice rig too!! Lot's of luck and thanks for sharing the progress ...I'll kept watching the build!!
Oh yea..welcome to Mud..lol
Pat
Oh yea..welcome to Mud..lol
Pat
Welcome to mud and nice trailer!! You've put a lot of time into that thing.
and nice trailer!! You've put a lot of time into that thing.
Exiled
SILVER Star
Man, that looks GREAT, you have mad skills! I really dig the bumper and the Jeep tailgate, very nice detail. Keep us posted!
- Thread starter
- #31
So last night I took some 1x1 14 ga. square tubing and cut it on my chop saw to start fabbing out the fenders...
chop saw
The original fenders, which I still have and am going to part with if anyone is local, were 20 inches at the top and 16 at the sides with a roughly 60 degree angle on each side. I increased the top length by four inches to compensate for my 35s.
The chop saw makes things real quick and easy. I had been cutting freehand and grinding to fit things up, but wont do that again.
chop saw
The original fenders, which I still have and am going to part with if anyone is local, were 20 inches at the top and 16 at the sides with a roughly 60 degree angle on each side. I increased the top length by four inches to compensate for my 35s.
The chop saw makes things real quick and easy. I had been cutting freehand and grinding to fit things up, but wont do that again.
- Thread starter
- #32
To make the cuts i just set the chop saw to 30 deg and cut on both ends...
I plan on fabbing the fenders with 18 gauge on top and sides. Then I will run a step / platform on each end out from the fender for a step / jerry can / propane mount... I will skin this with some steel diamond plate. havent decided whether I will screw in the skins, rivet, or weld them.
I then put the tub on the frame, took my spare off the jeep, and with some creative use of a bottle jack, four jack stands, a pneumatic/hydro 20 ton bottle jack from HF (cheap and has worked well) and some 2x4s i managed to get it up to put a wheel on. I dont have any help so moving things around takes some time and elbow grease.
Here is how she sits. My first reaction was holy SOA batman.
I plan on fabbing the fenders with 18 gauge on top and sides. Then I will run a step / platform on each end out from the fender for a step / jerry can / propane mount... I will skin this with some steel diamond plate. havent decided whether I will screw in the skins, rivet, or weld them.
I then put the tub on the frame, took my spare off the jeep, and with some creative use of a bottle jack, four jack stands, a pneumatic/hydro 20 ton bottle jack from HF (cheap and has worked well) and some 2x4s i managed to get it up to put a wheel on. I dont have any help so moving things around takes some time and elbow grease.
Here is how she sits. My first reaction was holy SOA batman.
- Thread starter
- #33
I knew that it was going to be a bit higher, but didnt expect it to be that high. Im now debating whether or not to switch it under. Would love some opinions on other people who had the same issues.
Anyways, I took some measurements and the trailer and on my jeep to see how things would line up...
Bottom of the frame is about 29 inches
Here you can see the rough height of the coupler when level.
Here you can see the height of my jeeps hitch with no passengers / cargo / spare. Several inches lower.
Also the height of the tub... About the same as the top of the jeep body...
Anyways, I took some measurements and the trailer and on my jeep to see how things would line up...
Bottom of the frame is about 29 inches
Here you can see the rough height of the coupler when level.
Here you can see the height of my jeeps hitch with no passengers / cargo / spare. Several inches lower.
Also the height of the tub... About the same as the top of the jeep body...
Hm, interesting problem you've got there. I say you lift the truck a couple more inches to match the trailer.
Mount the springs under the axle?
For a quick fix get a hitch that you can adjust the height on.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
Exiled
SILVER Star
Cookeab, take a look at your front spring mount, you can drill new holes for the spring pin about an inch above the original hole, trim the excess spring mount, and shave off some height like that. You can do the same on the shackle hanger side, too. My M416 used to sit as tall as yours did for the better part of 8 years (sitting SOA on 35's) and I never had any issues with it. I shortened the shackles on mine earlier this year so it matches the height of my new truck better.
- Thread starter
- #40
Exiled. Good suggestion. Ill look into it. Ive been doing some measurements but havent gotten much done in the past week (work) and think that if I put the axle back under the springs, it will be almost perfectly in line with my hitch. Im going to try this, and if it doesnt work, Ill probably go with your suggestion.
thanks
thanks
