Control Arm Removal tips.
- Thread starter 96Bruiser
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Prolly in the FAQ, but you need to spin the nuts on the rear bolts, and the bolts on the fronts, The nuts on the front have littel tabs that don't let them spin, as do the bolts on the rear.
Slee also has the instructions up on his site IIRC
Good luck
Slee also has the instructions up on his site IIRC
Good luck
I just removed mine last night. Here's Slee's instructions. The control arm info is at the bottom.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_ome.htm
Just remember to to strap the axles like he recommends and just for an extra measure of safety, place jackstands under the truck. Rear E-brake on and block the rear wheels. I also blocked the front and I'm glad I did, because the front did shift forward a little bit.
I used an impact wrench and turned the tires to gain access to all the bolts. I justed loosend all six, but did not remove, then straighted the wheel and undid the front bolts first, then the rear, one side at a time.
A good idea to mark which control came from which side.
The control will literally fall to the ground when the bolt comes out, so watch out for that. And as mentioned, follow the instructions for how to take the bolts out. The front bolts are undone differently than the rear.
Good luck.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
We were having a hard time lining the frame bolt back up, found it was easy to do having some turn the steering and someone else ready to push the bolt in. The bushing eye lined up in one magic spot while turning the wheel.
Before you bolt everything back up, check the tie rod clearance against the control arm. It will save you pulling everything back apart to grind the arms for clearing the tie rod.
Careful with the nuts Kliers mentioned, friend that installed plates recently found the nut missing. We figured he must have flattened the little flaps that keep the nut from backing off.
Before you bolt everything back up, check the tie rod clearance against the control arm. It will save you pulling everything back apart to grind the arms for clearing the tie rod.
Careful with the nuts Kliers mentioned, friend that installed plates recently found the nut missing. We figured he must have flattened the little flaps that keep the nut from backing off.
wildsmith
SILVER Star
Easiest way I found to get every thing to line up when putting them back on is to start at the axle end and install the rear bolt, then the front bolt which should lign up quite easily, then the chassis end using a rachet strap or hand winch to pull the axle into alignment.
Jon.
Jon.
Gday,
If you leave the front wheels on the ground, you can roll the front diff housing back with the tire. Then I use a pry bar under the spring perch to rotate into position. Ive always done it this way, but some ppl are worried something may fall on them - I dont know what.
Depending on how often you plan on doing this, you may want to make a jig to check if your bushes are pressed in accurately. Ours is just a piece of plate with 2 bolts welded to it, that the control arm with the new bushes must pass over.
Have fun
Matt
If you leave the front wheels on the ground, you can roll the front diff housing back with the tire. Then I use a pry bar under the spring perch to rotate into position. Ive always done it this way, but some ppl are worried something may fall on them - I dont know what.
Depending on how often you plan on doing this, you may want to make a jig to check if your bushes are pressed in accurately. Ours is just a piece of plate with 2 bolts welded to it, that the control arm with the new bushes must pass over.
Have fun
Matt
good tip on turning the wheel. I just replaced my bent right side arm last night and by turning the wheel all the way to the right I was able to get the last bolt in.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
How'd you bend a control arm?
Were the wheels on the ground or off ground?
Since the control arms locate the axle, removing them means the axle is free to move wherever it wants. Removing the control arms without supporting the frame of the truck is asking for trouble. Yes, I know people have done it. It's just not a very bright thing to do. Leaving some pressure on the tires would probably be fine, so you can move the axle around with the steering or by pushing the tire or whatever.
-Spike
how did you guys remove the rear bolt on the passanger side, looks like the exhaust pipe is in the way.
I don't know what year your Cruiser is but I didn't have any problems removing the rear pass bolts on the '97 and '96 when I did the caster bushings.
Mine is a 93 looks like I ll have to unbolt the catalitic converter and jack it up in order to remove the bolt.
I have a 94 which should be the same as your 93 and I did not have to remove the cat The bolt came right out.
Post a pic of what you are having problems with.
I did go look at my truck and I can see where it would hit but with alittle persuasion it will come out.
Do not bother with removing the cats you will be asking for trouble if you try to remove them for this especially if you have some rust on them.
Post a pic of what you are having problems with.
I did go look at my truck and I can see where it would hit but with alittle persuasion it will come out.
Do not bother with removing the cats you will be asking for trouble if you try to remove them for this especially if you have some rust on them.
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Hoosier Daddy
SILVER Star
Just did this a few days ago. If you follow the tips about jack stands under the frame, ratchet strap securing the axle, turn front bolts/rear nuts, then it is fairly easy. Only problem I had was getting the last frame bolt to line up when re-installing. Ended up getting it close with a cheap-o ratchet strap, then levered it the rest of the way by sticking a big screwdriver in the bolt hole. Use a strong strap, but accept the fact that it will get a lot of grease on it from the axle.
I read about a recommendatin to use thread-lock on the hardware when re-installing. I need to go back and do this.
I read about a recommendatin to use thread-lock on the hardware when re-installing. I need to go back and do this.
