Consensus on bearing replacement 300k miles

[NorCalFJ100]

Okay everyone, I know this has been covered in dozens of forums and posts...to replace or not to replace. Just wanted to see if I could get a quick consensus. Going to order stuff this weekend.

I bought my truck with 300k miles. No service records, but 1 owner truck besides son that drove it for about 25k miles then blew the HG and let it sit for 2 years.

So that's it. 300k Miles. Brand new rebuilt top and bottom end. Trying to keep this truck for the infinite future. Should I replace all 4 trunnion bearings, front inner/outter AND rear inner/outter wheel bearings?

Pricing everything online through Norwalk Toyota I am about $440 in just bearings + tax/shipping...or $669 with all gaskets/seals, etc.

Trying to baseline the front and rear axles.

 

[davidp14]

If you're already into a new top and bottom I'd definitely just get the bearings too.

 

[george_tlc]

Seems a no brainer. You want to keep it forever. It has 300k miles. No service records. You are going into the knuckles etc anyway to replace oil seals and regrease - what is your time worth to do it a 2nd time?

I'd be checking rotors, calipers, brake hoses, pads/shoes etc while in there...

Or wait till something goes wrong on the road

cheers,
george.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

@davidp14 & @george_tlc Thanks for the reply!!! What are your thoughts on Koyo Bearings bought from dealership VS Koyo from a distributor? Are they really the same thing? I've been such a purist so far with almost everything OEM except the internals on my bottom end rebuild...

 

[Irish Reiver]

I did mine at 130k miles. Sure the bearing might have lasted longer but it was part of my baselining and now I know that the front and rear axles are perfect. At 300k it's a no brainer. Also just like @george_tlc says, rotors, calipers and hoses are worth doing at the same time.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

I see tons of posts about the front wheel bearings...I guess because of the leaky seals that cause people to tear into the knuckle...but is the rear just as susceptible to damage, etc from not replacing these?

 

[NorCalFJ100]

I should also mention, that I'm trying to get this truck on the road...haha. I invested way more cash than I planned for the motor rebuild. I think the brakes, pads and calipers are important too...upon inspection they are oem pads at least and the truck stops well...pads are about 50%

 

[inkpot]

Buy a knuckle rebuilt kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Kurt has several brands of bearings available. I would not hesitate to run the sh*t out of any of those.

 

[Tools R Us]

Buy a knuckle rebuilt kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Kurt has several brands of bearings available. I would not hesitate to run the sh*t out of any of those.

This, Cruiser Outfitters Our default is to replace knuckle bearings when an axle reseal is needed. Wheel bearings last just about forever, so they are a clean and inspect deal. Almost never replace them and in the rare case where they are needed, they are commonly available. OE on them is Timken or Koyo.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Thanks @inkpot and @Tools R Us - my driver side seal is bad for sure...took the flange off to tighten up wheel bearings and birf poured out

 

[mudgudgeon]

Given the miles and lack of known history, if you're doing knuckles, I'd change the bearings too.
You're talking maybe $50 per corner for wheel bearings.

If they've been looked after, you might have them last forever as @Tools R Us suggests, if they've been neglected, or gotten wet, they can and do fail.
I had a front bearing collapse and seize in a previous new to me 80 with about 200k km. it completely seized on the highway, it was a bit of a brown underpants moment.

Definitely do trunions while doing the knuckles too. New trunions, new wheel bearings, new tie rod ends will have the truck driving and steering like a new machine.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Bearings last a long time. If you pull them out and they turn easily and have no blueish discoloration and there is grease on them I'd run them . Mike

 

[Cruiserdrew]

At 300k that's a lot of miles. I'd probably replace the wheel bearings. I replaced mine at 150k and they looked worn but OK and so they are in the trail box as spares.

But what I'd really give a hard look is the spindles. They are definitely a wear item as are the drive plates as well.

OEM bearings and aftermarket Timkin/Koyo are the same.

I have bought knuckle kits from Terrain Tamer, Cruiseroutfitters and Toyota. All worked fine for me.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Thank you @mudgudgeon @Michael Hanson @Cruiserdrew - good to know about the after market Koyo opposed to Koyo from Toyota, that should save me about half the cost!!! I'll research how to tell if the spindles and drive plates are bad too.

 

[COYS]

Sup brotha!

Whether 150, 200 or 300k+ miles, 1,2,6 owners deep, the US 80 at its youngest is two decades+ old.

Meaning every part, no matter how magic Toyota made in Japan JIT perfected and assembled they may be, are well past prime time.

IMHO you’re doing the right thing by going with oem parts. I’m doing the same. Some stuff you can cut corners with curated parts from the vetted 80 ecosystem. For example, tie rods and bearings I culled from cruiser outfitters. Everything else pretty much I’ve gone oem. Why? Because they’ve come this far to cross paths in 2018.

We can exchange more ideas over soju, but you’re already in deep with the engine rebuild. I’ve got that big box to check along with better sound system while retaining factory look, replace all interior dash bulbs with oem, etc. After that I’ve pretty much ticked every item in the refresh job good for another 1/4 million miles list. I don’t remember the last car I owned past 25k miles so this labor of love is extraordinary for me.

Like you the 80 is a lifetime vehicle.

/consensus

 

[Laisser aller]

...I tend to favor safety systems so naturally my thought drifts to wondering if you’re NorCalFJ100 buying reman OEM calipers out of the box, overhauling the current ones or getting an entirely different caliper at some point soon?

I am curious as to your thoughts on baselining the hydraulics?

Seriously, I am just thinking the hell with it with just going with mostly ’new’ chit? I am in a wet region so I am gonna have to pay more frequent attention to contamination in the brake fluid anyway.

I got a list written down somewhere in the house or on a drive, I cannot recall what the parts estimate totaled out to be but I do remember thinking it was worth more knowing chit was new rather than just assuming it would continue to work.

I will say, my hat’s off to you, sounds as if you are taking really good care of the 40th.

 

[Tools R Us]

Sup brotha!

Whether 150, 200 or 300k+ miles, 1,2,6 owners deep, the US 80 at its youngest is two decades+ old.

Meaning every part, no matter how magic Toyota made in Japan JIT perfected and assembled they may be, are well past prime time.
...

Yep, the most expedient way to get new parts is to trade that POS in on a new car! If the goal is spending the most $$$$$, then get new ones. If the goal is a solidly reliable rig, new may not be the best option.

In the case of wheel bearings, when servicing, inspection will show condition. One fact; a bearing that has run 300k mi doesn't have a significant manufacturing defect, the same can't be said for a new bearing.

The pitfalls we have seen on new bearings: Gouging, damaging the hub from removing/replacing the races, not getting them fully pressed in, not parallel/concentric. Race damage, chipping, etc, from beating them in. All new bearings have to break in, this isn't without risk and often needs care, preload loss, etc.

A bearing that has traveled say 300k mi with casual care, and is still in good condition, is obviously well proven. If installed back on the same race, with good grease and taken care of, is likely make 600k mi. Most wheel bearing failures are from lube problems, lack of it or contamination, servicing problems or defects. Replacing good, proven bearings with new isn't likely to increase reliability.

 

[COYS]

Predictable coming from a dude whose namesake is Tools R Us. Lol

Yep, the most expedient way to get new parts is to trade that POS in on a new car! If the goal is spending the most $$$$$, then get new ones. If the goal is a solidly reliable rig, new may not be the best option.

In the case of wheel bearings, when servicing, inspection will show condition. One fact; a bearing that has run 300k mi doesn't have a significant manufacturing defect, the same can't be said for a new bearing.

The pitfalls we have seen on new bearings: Gouging, damaging the hub from removing/replacing the races, not getting them fully pressed in, not parallel/concentric. Race damage, chipping, etc, from beating them in. All new bearings have to break in, this isn't without risk and often needs care, preload loss, etc.

A bearing that has traveled say 300k mi with casual care, and is still in good condition, is obviously well proven. If installed back on the same race, with good grease and taken care of, is likely make 600k mi. Most wheel bearing failures are from lube problems, lack of it or contamination, servicing problems or defects. Replacing good, proven bearings with new isn't likely to increase reliability.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

@CYKBC I am with you on this. This truck is a lifer for me and I really just want to be as pure and through as I can. You have done an incredible job baselining your rig and preserving all it's original quality. Definitely want to preserve the 80 for the infinite future as well! Everything that I have bought so far has been OEM, with the exception of some of the motor internals...which just weren't cost effective.

@Laisser aller I do absolutely plan to overhaul the braking system. I am just trying to attend to things in the order they are in current need. Presently the pads have about half the life and brakes stop very well (all OEM) There's no chattering, pulling or vibrations. I know I should plan to replace the rotors when breaking down the knuckles, but it's really not a huge deal to gain access to them again in the future. When I do I plan to go all OEM for pads/rotors...I will probably rebuild the calipers and paint them lime green! Hahahha...JK about that last part.

@Tools R Us I do see your point. I just need to be proactive to a degree. I am ordering everything from Norwalk Toyota and I won't really be able to tear it down, inspect and then wait for my shipment. Now I will also mention that I recently bought a TRAD Radiator for this same truck from the dealership and within 50 miles it cracked along the top...talk about manufacturing defect. Yikes. Replacing that this week...

 

[Tools R Us]

... Now I will also mention that I recently bought a TRAD Radiator for this same truck from the dealership and within 50 miles it cracked along the top...talk about manufacturing defect. Yikes. Replacing that this week...

The radiator is one of the parts that I replace from age or any sign of problem. Some here claim the dealer unit to be a 20yr life part, in our observation not so much, pretty rare for them to go that long. Have replaced two that were just past warranty, one at 14 months, so not my first choice.