Cone Washer Frustrations...
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An Ass hat used what seemed like tubes of fipg to seal the flanges on mine. hammer blows and a good cussin didnt break them loose i had to double nut and pull the studs when i tightened the wheel bearings. took a pick and pulled out old fipg and replaced cones and studs i bet they fall out now when i do next service
I can't help but notice that the folks who say they've never had any trouble live in rust free areas.
Those little guys can be a royal PITA when they've been put in dry and exposed to a few winters in the northeast. Luckily the hardware is easily replaceable and cheap. I always have a full set on hand. Never put them back in dry. Always coat with grease before re-assembly. If the ones you remove are pitted or damaged, replace them.
If you've beaten the studs to death, replace them.
It will be much easier the next time around.
Those little guys can be a royal PITA when they've been put in dry and exposed to a few winters in the northeast. Luckily the hardware is easily replaceable and cheap. I always have a full set on hand. Never put them back in dry. Always coat with grease before re-assembly. If the ones you remove are pitted or damaged, replace them.
If you've beaten the studs to death, replace them.
It will be much easier the next time around.
bloc
SILVER Star
I read this elsewhere and tried it on mine because it sounded like it made sense. Eventually moving to full swings with a 5# sledge. Not one came loose.
Brass drift on the end of the studs eventually got them. This reminds me I need to cut the end of that drift off.. It is pretty jacked up.
Not trying to hijack your thread, and hope I don't sound too dumb, but what is the purpose behind these cone washers anyways? Mine were also a pain to remove, annoying but not >that< bad, but I remember thinking while I was fighting with them, "why are these even here"? The locking hubs on the 4wd pickups I had just used some puny socket head cap screws, nowhere near as solid as the studs on the cruiser, and not as many of them either. What's wrong with just studs/nuts or bolts instead of these cone things?
bloc
SILVER Star
Cone washers allow a thick (strong) axle flange, while having a very short effective stud length. Since the root of the cone washer gets down near the root of the stud it keeps the stud from stretching and flexing. Overall it is MUUUUCH stronger than if you had just put the same size hardware in as regular studs and nuts.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Your answer is in your own question my friend.
There is not much in terms of strength on an 80 that could be called puny.
regards
Dave
I totally get (and like) that. Those fords didn't need much cause they just held the hub on, the axle drove it by means of splines or something similar. I don't remember if that;'s the case with the cruiser, but driving the wheel via those studs seems a bad idea even if they are pretty strong. I guess all I'm saying is that it seems like overkill for what they do, and make maintenance a pain. On the plus side studs are easier to repair than bolt holes when I screw them up, minus, I'm much more likely to need to repair these after trying to get them out.
There are 6 studs plus 2 hardened locator pins from the hub to the drive plate. It is a very stout setup with an extremely low failure rate.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Working on my rear axle, first time after 20 years and 250k miles. I used PB Blaster, hit hard, looked through this and other threads, hit really hard, still nothing, looked at threads again, then hit REALLY REALLY hard on stud and sides of axle flange, rotating hub. (The brass hammer looks like a crime scene)
Finally one came out on opposite side from where I had started. Eventually worked the others loose, the one I had started on was last to let go. Mine were rust welded. There was no way a screwdriver in the slot would get them going.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Real true, we're spoiled if the 80 you own never knew salt.
That is a gem about grease coating things, despite no salt I coat most all parts in some form of grease to fight water intrusion & corrosion, electrics especially.
I'd never fix any engine gasket that leaked oil if I lived in salt, that's just cheap rustproofing.
If you lack hammer skills, you can also use the two 8x1.25 holes in the axle flange to jack the axle out a little bit by tightening two bolts against the hub. Back the bolts out and then give the axle a tap back in and the cones will be left on the studs and you can slide them off.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Doesn't help with the front hub, and I think if the cone washers are seized in, there a good chance of stripping a bolt or those threaded holes before you'll push the cone washers out.
First I tried with a hammer +brass cylinder on the top of the studs.
Nothing moved.
At last I was sucessful with an air/impact chisel/hammer.
In a homestore I purchesed the smallest and cheapest one. (29EUR/32USD).
To prevent a deviation of the chisel towards the thread an loosing the cone washer I positioned a 10mm socket over.
I used the round chisel through the socket targeting the top of the stud.
Within minutes the problem was solved!
I was inpired by this genial forum!
Thank you for your information within several threads to this topic!
Greetings from Vienna AT, Arian!
Nothing moved.
At last I was sucessful with an air/impact chisel/hammer.
In a homestore I purchesed the smallest and cheapest one. (29EUR/32USD).
To prevent a deviation of the chisel towards the thread an loosing the cone washer I positioned a 10mm socket over.
I used the round chisel through the socket targeting the top of the stud.
Within minutes the problem was solved!
I was inpired by this genial forum!
Thank you for your information within several threads to this topic!
Greetings from Vienna AT, Arian!
