Completed My First Timing Belt Job: Parts & Tools List (1 Viewer)

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Nov 7, 2017
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Nashville
I finished my first timing belt job last weekend and wanted to write up a few things while they were on my mind. My LX470 has 195k miles, PO did a (what looked to be belt-only) timing belt job at ~100k.

I followed along with OTRAMM's excellent videos: 4.7L Toyota Timing Belt Disassembly and 4.7L Toyota Timing Belt Reassembly. If anything seemed ambiguous, I checked out his updated videos, shot with the motor on a stand: Disassembly, Cam / Crank Seals, Reassembly.

Process was to watch the part removal on video, and try to take everything out as identical to the video as possible to minimize potential for mistakes. Of course, that means that I spent about two hours actually watching the videos as I was doing everything.

The whole job took 10-12 hours working at my own shade tree pace. I knew I wouldn't complete the job in two hours with the videos, but I was surprised at the total time, which is really my motivation for writing this post. I got into a few binds needing to run to the store for tools/consumables and having to coordinate cars since the LX was not driveable, which accounts for quite a bit of the time.

Hopefully this helps someone else looking to take on their first timing belt job and consolidates a lot of great info I found in a few different threads into a single post.

Parts I replaced
- 13568-09070 Timing Belt
- 90916-02586 Serpentine belt
- 16100-09201 Water Pump
- 13503-0F010 Timing Belt Idler
- 13505-0F010 Timing Belt Idler
- 16604-0F010 Serpentine Idler
- 16620-0W101 Serpentine Tensioner
- 90311-A0001 Crank Seal
- 90311-38065 Cam Seal x 2 (I didn't have a Pulley holder, and my seals looked fine, so I saved these new ones for next time)
- 90916-03100 Thermostat
- 16346-50010 Thermostat gasket
- 16307-0F010 Fan Bracket (Bought Aisin FBT-002)
- 16210-50102 Fan Clutch (Bought Aisin FCT-021)
- 00295-00103 Toyota FIPG Seal Pack

Parts I forgot to order, but luckily mine were in good shape (I will order for next tbelt)
- 96761-24019 O-ring
- 96761-35035 O-ring

Parts I would pick up if I had to do it again (maybe every 180k)
- 13540-50030 Timing Belt Tensioner

Consumables from the parts store
- 3 Gallons of ZEREX Asian Vehicle Red
- Throttle body cleaner
- Dielectric grease (For O-rings)
- Thread locking compound (Loctite Blue)
- Lots of disposable gloves

Tools I used
- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm Sockets / Wrenches
- Flex head ratchet for pita A/C Compressor bolt on the side of the motor
- 14mm swivel socket OR universal joint socket + extension for compressor bracket
- 10mm allen wrench
- 22mm Socket + 1/2" drive breaker bar for crank pulley (I also needed another 1/2 ratchet + steel pipe to hold the crank pulley holder)
- Crank Pulley holder (Just random $20 cheapo on amazon)
- Torque wrench(es) - Almost everything is 12-15 ft-lbs, crank bolt is 180ft-lbs.
- Extensions 3in / 6in / 10in were handy at times
- Cam Pulley holder (I didn't have, but if changing cam seals, you'll need something like it)
- Scraper (Old credit card) and File for removing old gasket material
- Coolant bucket / pan

:wrench:

Cheers,

-g
 
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These are the bolts that are worrying me as I plan to do the T-belt on mine. Any more details, advice and pointers for them would be appreciated.

ac compressor top bolt with short socket, lower one with 2 wobble extensions above tie rod

The lower compressor bolt can be accessed without removing the front wheel.

Correct, I did the timing belt with the wheels on. For a/c compressor, top bolt was easy with a short socket, and I got the side bolt loose enough to move the compressor a bit (But did not remove) with a flex head ratchet and a deep socket. I watched the OTRAMM video with the engine on a stand to see where the bolt was, used the oil dip line as a guide.

-g
 
I'm reviving this thread because of @getco 's nice tool list. I just ordered a pulley holder for my cams from amazon, I went with the "generic", I hope it works.

I'm going to add that I fought with the lower AC bolt for a long time. I don't have a swivel ratchet and finding the right combination of extensions/wobbles/and ratchet size proved impossible. So I just pulled the oil filter. It wasn't that much of a mess, and you don't lose a lot of oil, since it's all in the sump. With the filter removed, you can quickly access the lower bolt. I should have just pulled it an hour ago. Just make sure you remove the fan bracket bolt and not the bracket bolt (like I did), it's not exactly easy to get that bolt back on.

I was able to remove the fan bracket WITHOUT touching the rear AC bolt (I'm not sure how I'd access it without the exact same tools OTRAMM had.
 

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