Complete A/C system replacement? (1 Viewer)

[RiverCityDave]

Dude Im just chiming in to give some encouragement. I live in Texas and as such I give my AC a good look see every spring. There is nothing complicated about this. In fact, working on the Cruiser in general is a pleasure compared to most everything else. All the AC parts are readily accessible, with the small exception of the evap core, which is not the end of the world, I get in there and clean it out every year, though I dont break the seal on the lines unless something is amiss. Absolutely hit this thread for RTH I will subscribe with email notification. Im not saying Im an expert, but I'm very familiar with the AC system on this truck.

Dave

 

[culturedredneck]

Thanks @mellowdave, I really appreciate it.

Here are the parts I've got on hand or ordered:
1. Evaporator
2. Compressor
3. O - Ring Kit
4. Accumulator
5. Expansion Valve
6. Dryer and Condenser (previously replaced)
7. Gasket/ Thread Sealant, AC Flush Kit

Anything else I should go ahead and replace while Im at it?

I cant decide if I should go ahead and order new lines, or just hope I can blow out the old ones. Im trying to make the repairs over a a few days while I have limited access to a shop. So its hard to replace, test, order new parts then replace, test, order new parts ect...

 

[Matthew Spencer]

My son and I did this same job about a month ago. We replaced all the same parts with the exception of the lines as mine are fine. The A/C shop said that there was a "clog" in my lines too but after we replaced all the other components the clog was gone. I know that is not the case for you but the point being is this is a relatively easy job if you take your time and work methodically. This is the first time I have ever repaired an A/C system because I was so intimidated by all the parts. Its like any thing else with these beasts. Take your time and it all becomes obvious. My Cruiser is now nice and cold.

BTW. When we took the cruiser back to the shop to get a vacuum pulled and recharged the guy there did not believe that my son and I did the work our selves. Sorry my arm hurts from patting myself on the back

I am a former DC metro resident. I lived in McLean, then Alexandria, then MacArthur Blvd. NW. and then finally Arlington.

 

[kruisinkid]

you need PAG46 oil for the compressor
also, isnt the dryer the same as the accumulator?

 

[ZackR]

you need PAG46 oil for the compressor
also, isnt the dryer the same as the accumulator?

Correct on PAG oil, I added some to the evaporator when I took mine out for cleaning (easy place to add it). I would call it a drier instead of an accumulator in this context but it does serve the same purpose. Someone with more AC experience will be able to explain the difference between how an accumulator and drier work.

 

[RiverCityDave]

Thanks @mellowdave, I really appreciate it.

Here are the parts I've got on hand or ordered:
1. Evaporator
2. Compressor
3. O - Ring Kit
4. Accumulator
5. Expansion Valve
6. Dryer and Condenser (previously replaced)
7. Gasket/ Thread Sealant, AC Flush Kit

Anything else I should go ahead and replace while Im at it?

I cant decide if I should go ahead and order new lines, or just hope I can blow out the old ones. Im trying to make the repairs over a a few days while I have limited access to a shop. So its hard to replace, test, order new parts then replace, test, order new parts ect...

So blowing out the lines isn't hard at all, if you look at what's inside a Denso Compressor, the things that get pushed through the system are little bits of rubber and plastic, plus any "sealant" that may have been introduced to the system over the years. Once you get to pulling the parts, you'll see that you can blow out the lines easy enough, and you'll be able to see where anything isn't coming out of pretty quickly. None of the lines are longer than three feet by themselves, and they are all pretty much readily accessible under the hood. The one that runs along the drivers fender from the drier with the sight glass on it is the longest single run of hard tubing. I mean if you remove the lines, you can simply bore brush them with a dry bore brush from a rifle cleaning kit. (Soak it in PAG46 if you want a lubricant.) You're going to find that the system is pretty simple once you start tearing into it. Most likely if the compressor grenaded and sent shrapnel through the system, most of it ended up in the condenser. What's more likely is that some rubbery goo from sealant made its way further through the system, and you're replacing all of the parts that can catch that stuff already.

You do have a copy of the service manual right?

 

[mikedamageinc]

I replaced my entire system a few years ago after not finding the leak (ended up being condenser and evaporator) and I only spent around 700 from rock auto.com. I think it only took me about a day to replace and wasn't too bad of a job, I used to live up that way I would tell you to bring it by with the parts and order a pizza and we'd knock it out!

Parts list:
Compressor (should come with oil in it, don't add more)
Condenser
Expansion valve
Evaporator core
Dryer (needs replace when it gets charged then open system, cheap so just do it)
Pressure hose/hard line (could just clean out lines yourself but rubber hoses probably need replacement )

For charging:
Vacuum pump (~$50 harbor freight)
A/C gauges (also ~$50 hf)
2-3 cans of r134a from wally world

 

[culturedredneck]

Thanks for the replies everyone, I've got all the parts and tools and should be digging into it thurs/fri and into the weekend.

Based on the replies here, my plan of attack is as follows (please point out anything Im missing):

1. Take it to a shop and have them evac all the freon (you know, because of the environment)
2. Take it back to the house and begin pulling parts.
3. Pull all the lines and blast them clean with AC cleaning solution, compressed air and brushes if necessary.
4. Replace all the parts one by one along with the cleaned lines.
5. Hook everything back up and recharge with with my shiny new vacuum pump and some r134a.
6. Enjoy Pizza and beer probably while parked in my driveway with my car running and blasting the AC.

Also, stupid questions... Ive been assuming my AC system is already R134a, but could it be R12 and I need to convert while im at it? Its a 97...

 

[FJ80Steve]

My FJ80 sat under a tree for 10 years before I got it, took it in to see about getting it converted to r134 and charged to see if it was a simple leak or something worse, mechanic (also a friend) told me the only way he would mess with it was if he replaced the whole system with the exception of the hard lines because he has seen too many vehicles like OPs where the previous owner had poured a bunch of the stop leak crud in the system.. Quoted me $2000 all said and done.

I converted it myself, poured in some pag oil, charged it and it works now..

 

[RiverCityDave]

Thanks for the replies everyone, I've got all the parts and tools and should be digging into it thurs/fri and into the weekend.

Based on the replies here, my plan of attack is as follows (please point out anything Im missing):

1. Take it to a shop and have them evac all the freon (you know, because of the environment)
2. Take it back to the house and begin pulling parts.
3. Pull all the lines and blast them clean with AC cleaning solution, compressed air and brushes if necessary.
4. Replace all the parts one by one along with the cleaned lines.
5. Hook everything back up and recharge with with my shiny new vacuum pump and some r134a.
6. Enjoy Pizza and beer probably while parked in my driveway with my car running and blasting the AC.

Also, stupid questions... Ive been assuming my AC system is already R134a, but could it be R12 and I need to convert while im at it? Its a 97...

The only way your truck could be R12 is if it were originally sold in a non-US market, or someone converted it later. However that is EXCEEDINGLY unlikely, and you're replacing everything anyway.

 

[FJ80Steve]

The only way your truck could be R12 is if it were originally sold in a non-US market, or someone converted it later. However that is EXCEEDINGLY unlikely, and you're replacing everything anyway.

R12 was in everything until 96, I'm sure some trickled into 97 so lets not rule the possibility out all together.

Also, stupid questions... Ive been assuming my AC system is already R134a, but could it be R12 and I need to convert while im at it? Its a 97...

look around under the hood, should be an info label that will specify, and if its been converted there should be some kind of label for that as well.

 

[RiverCityDave]

R12 was in everything until 96, I'm sure some trickled into 97 so lets not rule the possibility out all together.



look around under the hood, should be an info label that will specify, and if its been converted there should be some kind of label for that as well.

Toyota stopped using R-12 in the Land Cruiser platform in 1993. I have a 1994 that was originally R134. Pretty simply, Toyota didn't make an R12 equipped Land Cruiser in the US in 1997, or for four years before that.

If for whatever reason, you don't feel inclined to trust my expertise, take CDAN's input.

Re: R12 and R134 what year "cdan" did Toyota chang

Yo,

Simon was very close. It was actually may 1993.The last frame number to have R12 is JT3DJ81xxxxx38946. '38947 is the first frame with R134.


Dan

 

[culturedredneck]

Thanks guys!

@ mellowdave, I had read that too but also some conflicting info. Wasn't sure if by replacing everything I would be converting it along the way, or if separate parts were needed. I think I'm clear now. Thanks again!

 

[FJ80Steve]

Toyota stopped using R-12 in the Land Cruiser platform in 1993. I have a 1994 that was originally R134. Pretty simply, Toyota didn't make an R12 equipped Land Cruiser in the US in 1997, or for four years before that.

If for whatever reason, you don't feel inclined to trust my expertise, take CDAN's input.

Na I trust you haha. Hey, ya learn something new everyday, right?

 

[RiverCityDave]

Thanks guys!

@ mellowdave, I had read that too but also some conflicting info. Wasn't sure if by replacing everything I would be converting it along the way, or if separate parts were needed. I think I'm clear now. Thanks again!

Yeah man, it's all a sealing parts, lubricating oil (R12 used mineral oil, R134a uses PAG) issue when you change over, combined with (ideally) a more efficient condenser.

 

[b4wheeler]

Culturedredneck I you are still in he DC area, I am about to attack the same job is weekend. I replaced my compressor and had the system charged, only to ind my blower box drain clogged. Wifes feet (and mine) got very wet last weekend.
I tried to unclog he drain, but a heat shield blocks it. SO I went into the evaporator and found a lot of dirt and leaves. This leads me to just replacing everything in the system. So I am staring the job this weekend.

 

[culturedredneck]

Alright, So i'm pretty deep into the system now and everything seems to be going soothly (fingers crossed). I found the major clog, and unstuck it... all over my arm. (see photo)

Ill update with some pics and more info later, but for the moment just a quick question: The Denso compressor I got isnt very clear about the oil situation. It definitely came filled with some (an ounce or two spilled out) but Im not sure whether it needs new oil, or more oil. Or no oil. I didnt purchase any as I was assuming the new compressor would have the oil it needed.

Thanks!

 

[kruisinkid]

Which tube is that exactly? Looks pretty gross.

Someone in this thread or another recent a/c one said it came with oil. Whatever spilled out probably needs to be replaced

 

[culturedredneck]

Its the tube that attached to the evaporator. The expansion valve was 100% blocked as was this tube. I had to break it up manually by threading a wire though it. Then i cleaned it with compressed air and flush. I've blasted out all the tubes with compressed air now and they seem free and clear.

 

[1972FJ55]

Denso brand compressors come with a full system charge of oil, I believe it's 7.6 oz's so I'd replace whatever was spilled.