Collision Repairs Questions (1 Viewer)

[bigben78]

Hey All,

Been using MUD as a resource for the past 12 years of owning my 2004 100 series. So much great info and a advice here has helped me tremendously. Thanks to all who make this such a great resource.

My truck was hit drivers side right front while legally parked and unoccupied. Police report proved that the other driver was at fault they are insured by State Farm. Claim is active now and I got my first estimate today from a local shop.

Truck is not in pristine cosmetic exterior condition, but at 315,000 miles it’s still in a high level of mechanical condition. I’ve maintained it meticulously. Just the expected road rash and paint fading of a 20 year old truck with that mileage. I love it and plan to keep it as long as it lets me.

Got an estimate today from a State Farm preferred shop, who recommended a $3k repair bill to replace the drivers side fender, headlight, side marker and fog light. Repaint of front bumper and new fender.

Partial paint job is insufficient in my opinion as it will look very different than my existing “vintage” look, but the shop said State Farm will never approve a full paint job, which he estimated at $10,000 just for the paint materials and labor. Probably $12,500 total. He was not agreeable to submitting that to State Farm as the repair estimate.

A lot to unpack, but initial questions I have for this community is what is recommended for replacement headlights, side markers, and fog lights. He said State Farm would only approve the drivers side replacements although they are gonna look terrible compared to the original passenger side lights given the age on them.

He also said that the OEM lights are no longer available and used the costs he found online for used lights. I think the lights on both sides should be replaced so they match.

Other questions I have are regarding the situation of a partial paint job. As I said, truck has some road rash and fading to be expected at this point and I think the only way they can make me while is a full paint job. And I don’t mean a $400 MAACO special. I’d want it done right.

Truck is worth more than I paid for it when I bought in in 2011 with 80k miles. But given this situation of feel like a half ass repair is only gonna drop the value for looking so conspicuous.

At minimum I need to replace the lights just from a legality and functionality standpoint.

Thoughts?

Better to just do the lights, take the check for $3,000 and move on, or fight for a full paint job?

Is $10,000 really what a quality full paint job should cost?

Of course I’ve got to be careful not to exceed whatever amount would make it totaled. I’m in SC and I think that is 75% of “market value”

 

[bigben78]

Couple pics

 

[LCT]

OEM headlights, marker lights, fender and fog light are still available from Toyota dealers. I would find a dealer that sells at full retail price and get an invoice from them and submit to insurance. Regarding paint job, ~$5k should get you a decent paint job for the complete vehicle.
I would have the insurance cut you a check for the above and you can fix it as you see fit. Buy cheap from partsouq and use touch up paint if you want to save some $$$.
At that mileage, it doesn’t take much for the Insurance company to total it. I think at $10k-$12k, you will be over 75% of the market value.

 

[ace10]

Step 1, find the best auto body shop in your area. THAT'S where you go, not where the at-fault driver's insurance wants to send you.
If you're not happy with what you're hearing from the other party's insurance, then you can subrogate the claim through your own insurance.

You're the victim. They are on the hook to make you whole.

And yes, $10K is going to be the absolute minimum a good body shop will charge for a full repaint.

If you don't want a patchwork vehicle, then you need to play hardball and get the vehicle totalled out. Research if your state allows for diminished value claims. Insurance is never going to pay for a full repaint on a 20 year old truck.
State Farm's role in your mess is to pay out as little as possible. They are diametrically opposed to your best interests.

 

[Zuberg]

First, sorry to see your truck got hit.

@LCT and ace10 provides some really good advice above.

Didn't ask for this advice, but having been in several accidents where I wasn't at fault, I would say:

1. If you can, don't use the other person's insurance. Go through your insurance if possible, you'll pay deductible up front but will get it back when it's all settled. Especially since the other person is clearly at fault. That's just based on my experience although it sounds like State Farm isn't jerking you around at the moment.

2. I prefer to not go to the insurance recommended shops. They are preferred by insurance cause they're usually cheap and so will be any repairs. See LCT's advice about going to a dealership. Or ask the dealerships for a good recommendation for a quality shop. Ace10 is on the money about going to the best shop in the area.

3. Get a few estimates. If you go through your own insurance they'll hopefully fight for you so you don't have to do the back and forth. Get the biggest check you can based off those estimates and with some smart shopping, you'll be able to cover new headlights on both sides and remaining quality repairs.

Good luck!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I think what you're expecting is a little out of the realm of realistic. Full paint job to match on a 20yo truck. And "vintage" look? Just replace the pieces and drive. Do the work yourself after getting the check and have enough money to replace the other headlight if it's that concerning for you.

 

[dubdub20003]

Have some work experience in this space and some truths above.

First off, Toyota has a certified collision repair network. Look it up and go there. Period, full stop. Short of that, what you want to find is a shop that is not part of any insurers “DRP programs”. The ones who are truly independent are usually proud of it and will happily tell you. They will advocate for you, because they don’t care to be a “favored” repairer of the insurer. I’d go Toyota certificed first.

Agreed on above, they are not going to pay for full respray. Maybe have them do it as partial and then try to complain of if it is a noticeable difference, but they are not going to do it up front. I think it would be rare to replace working other parts such as your lights to match.

Agreed with the above, many shops just use a parts look up tool that is attached to standard paths to get parts, mostly aftermarket. Do your own research to show part availability… again a Toyota certified shop would be less likely to do this to you, and they’d find the OE parts.

Each state’s laws are different. Some are no-fault states… some are not. You should be considered a 3rd party claimant, which means the agreement that the other driver made on parts when getting their policy, does not apply to you… so don’t let them tell you you cannot use genuine OEM parts.

As noted, may be worth starting over at a different shop and using your insurance… that said, it varies by state, so there are no absolutes.

 

[hoser]

They won't pay for a full respray. They could maybe blend it a little into adjacent panels.

Personally, I'd get a PDR person to get 90% of the dent out and good touch-up paint job (buffed out to match surface heigh). Take this opportunity to go with the '06 style one piece headlamps (either actual '06 with grill or the Depo version that uses existing grill). Refinished front bumper is fine. But just FYI, an aftermarket bullbar bumper would have prevented most of that damage.

 

[jsloden]

The insurance would just total the truck out before they paid for a full repaint. If you can find a good body shop they can match the exsisting paint. The body shop isn't going to just go by the original paint code. They can take pics of the vehicle and get a small paint sample. They have a computer that will match the exsisting color. I went through a literal tree last year during a thunder storm. It was a dark road and a tree had fallen across the road and I didn't see it in time. Had to have a small amount of body work done on the a pillar as well as a new windshield. Had liability only on a 23 year old vehicle with 450k miles on it so I was paying for it out of pocket. I thought there would absolutely no way the body shop could match 23 year old pearl white on an lx470. To my amazement by the time they were done and had blended it in with the roof line and hood you could never tell anything had ever happened. The key to all of this is to FIND THE BEST BODY SHOP YOU CAN. Don't go to where the insurance company wants to send you. Ask around and look at online reviews. The one I go to isn't the best known in town but they are ALWAYS covered up with cars and they do really good work. Visit the different places and look at their work. In the end it's going to be a 20 year old suv with 300k miles on it. Just consider it a bit of character and a couple of battle scars.