Clutch slips after running for a while (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 4, 2005
Threads
30
Messages
233
Location
Clear Lake Shores, Texas (Kemah)
My pretty new clutch starts slipping after running around for a bit. Never did this before. It seems only to slip after everything is warmed up.

I had a new hydraulic clucth cylinder placed on (I think thats what you call it, mounted on the fire wall, the last one started leaking inside the truck) Ever sense then my clutch starts to slip when I have been running her a bit around town.

You guys have any suggestions?



Also I'm starting to get that death wobble when I go to slow down sometimes. I never use to do that either. It only does it sometimes and not all the time. Even sometimes when I hit a pretty good bump on the road it will do it. I don't think the rotors are warped. I think it something else.

I have a 4" reverse shackle lift on the vehicle. Its the old man emu lift with reverse shackles.

Any ideas on this? I have heard of people having this problem, but never heard the resolution.
 
as for the clutch could be the adjusting rod isnt quite right, but thats one id have to mess with to know more of how it is acting.
and for the wobble likely something loose in the front end.

Get it to me and i can get it fixed for ya, i can even pick up if needed for cost of fuel.
 
Did you replace the rearmain seal? Mine slips when it's warmed up and the oil starts leaking on the clutch disk out of my leaking rearmain seal.
 
How hard is it to replace the rear main seal?
How hard is it to do a front axle overhaul?

I will check the adjustment first, don't you access this from the inspection cover at the gear shift?

Thanks again guys
 
To replace the rear main seal you need to pull the trans. and transfer case out and the clutch and flywheel. From there it is pretty straight forward, just alot of work to get there.
 
death wobble issue:
sounds like it's time for you to do a front axle overhaul. your trunion/kingpin bearings are getting to be toast.

There are so many different variables when it comes to the death wobble. It is not accurate to pinpoint an area that is causing it with out going through them all.:meh:
 
my offer still stands.
 
If yours is an '85, you may not have and adjustable rod between the slave cylinder and the release arm. Seems odd that it started right after replacing the MC. I did a new clutch years ago that did the same thing. It had very little holding power. I ended up having the shoulder of the flywheel cut just a bit deeper that what is nomally called for. That results in the springs of the pressure plate being compressed more when the clutch is engaged. Bottom line, it worked and never slipped again. But you might start with trying the bleeder on the slave cylinder once everything is hot since that is when the issue seems to happen. I would be curious to know if there is pressure there. If so, fluid will shoot out. It should just trickle out.
 
could you have put the clutch disk in backwards?
 
bleed the line again sounds like it still has some air in it ... as it heats up it expands and you get the spongey feeling just like brake systems do ..... my $.02
 
Clutch slipping

Ok I have the same problem I just took the cruiser out for its first long drive in over a year. when I got it the clutch resivor was empty so I put new fluid in and bleed it. I can't find where the fluid leaked out form either. I looked at all the usall places. we went for a drive through the city and we went up a hill and the clutch stated to slip not enough to smell it burning but the motor was reving faster then we were driving. What should I do to fix this I dont have the means or time to put a new clutch in.
 
Jeepgod- just had a similar experience as yours- all I did was unbolt the slave cylinder, bleed it and rebolt it- the problem went away. Actually going back, I would have just tried bleeding it first without removing it.
 
Ok just so I'm on the same page with you guys, where exactly is the slave cylinder? Is that under the vehicle against the transmission? Or up under the hood on the fire wall.

Never really had to mess with one before and I want to make sure I have the Terminology correct.

Thanks
 
The slave cylinder is the bottom half of the hydraulic system for the clutch. It is located in front of the transmission on the passenger side. It connects to a rod the connects to the clutch fork. If you look at the starter it is off to the side of it. You can also follow the fluid line form the clutch master cylinder to find it.

I am not sure of a air pocket could let the clutch spin can someone explain that to me. Also should I bleed it again warm or cold.
 
I have seen this many times with installation of brake of clutch hydraulics. most likely the linkage rod is too tight and when the fluid warms up it expands ever so slightly and pushes the clutch. What is the pedal freeplay feel like?

Also if there was any oil accidently put in the master cylinder it will do this. Ive seen people unknowingly put motor oil in their master cyl. Oil expands alot when warm, especially when put under pressure. Ive seen brakes actually apply and lock while driving. An expensive mistake. the oil will ruin the rubber seals in the master, abs valves and calipers.
 
I figured that was it, just wanted to clarify. i really appreciate all the good advice guys.

I don't think the pressure plate is in backwards due to the clutch being in over a year, but the new cluth master cylinder is only several months old. I will check all these things out and see what turns up.

Again, Thanks
 
Bump.
Had the same problem today. After a long drive the clutch started grabbing up much higher and then even slipped once. Going to bleed it once everything is hot.

Wavepimp,
Did you have luck with this method?
 

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