Clutch problems

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Aug 22, 2005
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I was hunting yesterday with my truck parked for a couple of hours, when we got back in I pressed the clutch pedal in and it seemed weird like it went over half way before it seemed like it was doing anything. Now today I can't change gears unless i quickly jam the clucth pedal in and quickly put it into gear. Does this sound like the clutch master cylinder or the actuator on the side of the tranny?
I checked the resivior and it's full of fluid. Maybe air in the system?
Please help my hunting season depends on it:)
 
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I would more expect a half dead slave, than the master. press the clutch, and have someone wiggle aorund with the slave, if there is any signs of fluid dripping out, that's the problem.
 
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Now is the slave the part that pushes the lever that goes into the tranny, and is bolted to the tranny?
 
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ostacruiser said:
Now is the slave the part that pushes the lever that goes into the tranny, and is bolted to the tranny?

correct, that one. any signs of fluid on there?
 

kevinmrowland

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I have had the exact same symptoms, both times it was the master cylinder. It seems that eighter master or slave would cause the same symptoms.
Check the firewall inside the truck for leaking fluid as well as the slave.
when the master goes it leakes on the inside.
 
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Thank-you both for the quick replies, I did notice that there was a little moistness around the end of the slave I will check the firewall for master leaking. Is there any other way to tell if it is the master or the slave? The resivior was still full though so couln't been leaking much. When the slave is gone does the fluid just push past it not applying the full force of the hydrollic pressure?
 

lowenbrau

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Dont waste too much time trying to figure out which one is bad. If you replace one the other will die shortly thereafter. I'd just order both (or rebuild kits for both) and be done with it in one go. Neither is terribly expensive.
 

kevinmrowland

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A word of caution on a rebuild. I did one, then I did it again. :doh:
There was pitting inside of the cylinder that the hone could not remove so it wore out the boots pretty fast. If you plan to rebuild check the cylinder carefully, it is not worth doing twice.
Good luck.
 
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Thanks for the info, I ordered both the master and the slave today 121.19 and 50.69
 
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a nearby shop offers sleeving of any master or slave automotive hydraulics.. in fact they rarely hone anything.. they did my brake master on a Porsche 914 for about $150 dollars, they used a stainless sleeve and guaranteed it for life...i have since sold that car but i know its racing on the same master it had when i sold it. i would look into this route, if its cheaper than buying a new master of course..
 

kevinmrowland

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Cool, never heard of sleeving them, makes sense.
I ordered a brandy new OEM master for $90, so I dont know if it would be worth it. It is also great to have the master and slave in my spares box for emergencies. Good peace of mind, 'cause if yur carrying the spare, they wont break.:D
 

David*BJ70

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Just for your info... and I know that will not help...

rebuilt kit for a 1983 BJ60 slave cylinder at NAPA : 16 $ can.
 

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
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Sometimes those rebuilds kits fail, not for quiality, so for reall y minimal scratches inside walls ..
 

Tapage

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sometimes those kits fail not for quality, so for really little scratchs on the inside walls on the cilinder ..
 
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Ya i'll spend the extra and get the new ones they both look easy to install.
What about bleeding, I know there is a bleed screw on the slave, just push the clutch in and open bleed then close, repeat as many times as it takes?
 
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