clutch issues... (1 Viewer)

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Dec 10, 2002
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Juneau, AK
truck was fine on the way to work. headed to lunch & noticed near complete slack in clutch pedal. tried to move out of lot to no avail. slave cyl was empty- refilled hoping something weird happened & it would solve the problem, but as you know it didn't. any ideas?

edit: notice that when I pump the pedal, it's leaking fluid around the pushrod, so... that's a bad master, right?
 
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I've read on here to replace both master and slave when you have the system open.

So that's what I recommend! :D
 
I remember when the clutch master went out on my pig...slowing down to come to a complete stop prior to a right hand turn....slow down, no clutch, about to stall, look for traffic, california roll stop through the intersection, pull over in next parking lot, scratch head....
 
Mine is doing same thing. Im not sure how you knee the slave is empty, but i noticed the leak at master pushrod and master reservoir was empty. Refilling the master has kept me rolling till I rebuild (got the master kit and the slave kit to do both at same time. Like $30 total for both iirc...)
 
For me, you can get a new Aisin MC cheap enough where I don't even bother with rebuilding.
 
1) You can drive without a clutch.
B) Rebuilding clutch cylinders is cheap & easy. With a good rebuild kit and a hone, you can do a better job of rebuilding your own. When you rebuild your own, you know it will go back together just the way it came apart...not always the case when you buy a FLAPS rebuilt. Rebuilding your clutch cylinders is good practice for when you want to rebuild your brake master.
III) It is highly recommended that you rebuild or replace both clutch master and slave at the same time. It saves you bleeding it twice. A new/rebuilt master will overpower an old slave and blow out the seal. A new or rebuilt slave will provide too much resistance and blow out a master seal.
 
Also don't forget to clean up all that brake fluid thats leaking. It's terrible for paint.
 

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