Clickety Click.... (yes the bad one) (1 Viewer)

[Klunky Chris]

yup,
a properly serviced 80 series birf should have no problems with a locked front end turned or not. (If you get into bigger tires like Christo said, it could be a different story, and you might need to be more careful)

I don't think a clicking birf means it's shot (mine is fine), but it does mean it needs serviced quick. (my other one was not fine )

 

[thelal]

Mines been clicking for 3+ years and not gone yet
Not that I try too hard. Doesn't even have to be in front-locked to click.
Maybe I need another birfileld axle job !

 

[CruisinGA]

I noticed today a louder click when i was backing up at full turn lock.

Thats good to hear Christo because I was going to wheel it on monday (no school) and was going to instead rebuild the front axle when the sea of paranoia that is the 80 forum got me concerned .

Now I'll just wheel it and have a good time, and hope it doesn't break.

If you can catch me when I am in town I can help Bailey.

Thanks for the offer Dan, I sure wouldn't mind help to get it done faster, but I have already done a few of these, so don't feel obligated to keep me from fawkin it up.


Don't you remember I am now a professional cruiser mechanic/tard wrangler. (in the summer at least).

 

[Beowulf]

Bailey,

When you service the front birfields, it would be a good idea to swap them side-to-side. Since one (or both) are clicking the side swap will change the wear patterns a little.

-B-

 

[CruisinGA]

Thanks for the suggestion-I'll do that.

 

[Riley]

---> old thread warning <----

I searched a bit and dug an old thread that was closest to the problem at hand.

At T-minus 30 days and counting to Cruise Moab I repacked by wheel bearings and threw on my 33" MTR tyres. The following day (tonight), I was stopped on pavement and cranked the wheel hard left and then a fast/agressive start. I could hear a slight and brief click from the DS. Heck I'm not even sure it's the birf click sound (maybe something else).

So now I'm a bit worried with my long trip to Moab coming up. The birfs were repacked 18 months ago and looked good then. I've never had any clinking before.

From the posts above it sounds like Christo is saying "heck, don't worry about a little clicking, as long as you know the front knuckles have been serviced", which they have been.

Questions are:

1) I also tweaked my wheel bearings on the weekend. Could a slightly loose (or tight) wheel bearing cause this? Don't forget that this weekend I also switched from the stock LTX tyres to the 33" MTRs so it's not like the clicking just started with the wheel bearing tweak. Also replaced the brake pads.

2) What's the best way to "test out" my birf? find some gravel and go into 4L and try it out?

It's some 2000 miles to Moab and back and I'm not sure I want to take it on with a questionable birf. A board member has a spare I can take for backup but I'd really not have the hassle to deal with on the road.

I'm not sure I have the time before Moab to install a new OEM birf but I suppose it's possible. But it's sure not in my current plans.

I guess I'm looking for a little positive encouragement that it's gonna be fine after driving 1000 miles to Moab and then wheeling level 4 trails and return home.

Thanks guys.

Riley

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Riley, from the opinions I've read on here since I joined, I believe you'll be fine. As Christo said above, up until a few years ago a broken 80-birf was urban legend(not that I've been around that long, but everyone I've talked to, both online and off has had the same impression). I'm sure others will chime in, but I wouldn't worry about it.

Ary

 

[semlin]

Riley, I really doubt that it's the birfields. Yours were pristine as i recall 18 months ago and I am assuming you have no sign of leakage so there is plenty of goo in there still. It gets 90% of miles on streets on street tires so no stresses. I would think carefully to make sure you did not miss a step in the wheel bearing process and you might want to check your relay rod end and tie rod end for play or boot failure, and maybe look at your sway bar connectors too. Also maybe ensure the lugs were seated properly when you changed the wheels? I can help this weekend. I would maybe try a few more sharp turns in both directions under acceleration.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I guess I'm looking for a little positive encouragement that it's gonna be fine after driving 1000 miles to Moab and then wheeling level 4 trails and return home.

We have spares.

 

[JerryLX450]

Yes mine too, everytime i made the left turns i can hear click-click sounds clearly with the driver side window open.Im sorry for the stupidity... is that what the knuckle looks like? I mean pics below...Also is it better replace both L and R side the whole kit include with the wheel bearing?

Thanks Guys

 

[Rookie2]

Im sorry for the stupidity... is that what the knuckle looks like? I mean pics below...Also is it better replace both L and R side the whole kit include with the wheel bearing?

Thanks Guys

The picture you've referenced shows the complete replacement parts kit for the front axle service (inner & outer bearings and races, trunion bearings, gaskets, seals, wiper seal set, knuckle shims). Take a look at the writeups in the tech section, and you'll see some pics of the actual knuckle assembly.

When you do the front axle service, you'll want to do both sides. Bearing replacement is kind of a judgement call and may depend on mileage too. I think most people go ahead and replace the trunion bearings regardless while they're in there, since they're that deep into it.


Rookie2

 

[JerryLX450]

By the way whats the trunion bearing looks like?

 

[Rookie2]

By the way whats the trunion bearing looks like?

They're the 4 smaller bearing and races seen in the lower left of the picture above.

 

[JerryLX450]

ROOKIE2, You guys also debated over the grease? Hmmm...ck ck ck...im speechless here.. grease just grease isnt it? Or do you strongly recommend for the moly grease from autozone?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=35104&highlight=knuckle+front+axle

 

[Riley]

Guys - you have totally hyjacked my thread. Dig up your own old thread. JK.....

BTW - there are plenty of old threads on grease (moly ect...). use the special search powers.

 

[concretejungle]

The trunions were the only thing that had me scratching my head during the rebuild. I couldn't figure out how to safely get the old one's out and the new one's in without buggering something up. They still looked good, so i replaced everything except them. So far so good.

 

[Riley]

The trunions were the only thing that had me scratching my head during the rebuild. I couldn't figure out how to safely get the old one's out and the new one's in without buggering something up. They still looked good, so i replaced everything except them. So far so good.

Wack on them with a small brass rod. Use the two little pilot holes that are provided that give you access to the races. They tap out pretty easy. Square off the brass rod once and awhile.

 

[Riley]

Riley, I really doubt that it's the birfields. Yours were pristine as i recall 18 months ago and I am assuming you have no sign of leakage so there is plenty of goo in there still. It gets 90% of miles on streets on street tires so no stresses. I would think carefully to make sure you did not miss a step in the wheel bearing process and you might want to check your relay rod end and tie rod end for play or boot failure, and maybe look at your sway bar connectors too. Also maybe ensure the lugs were seated properly when you changed the wheels? I can help this weekend. I would maybe try a few more sharp turns in both directions under acceleration.

Thanks Simon and I guess Christo ("we have spares ").

I took it out tonight on some gravel and fully locked it and did some turns, not a peep or click/clack out of it. If there is anything going on in the birfs, I think it's really minor wear (famous last words I know).

I think I'm stressing over the small stuff..... as usual. But I'll bring some $$ and some beer just in case.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I think I'm stressing over the small stuff..... as usual. But I'll bring some $$ and some beer just in case.

And gloves, grease, rags etc etc. I said spares, I am not volunteering services

 

[SteveH]

When you pull apart the front end and inspect a birfield, exactly what should you look for, as far as birfield wear? axial play? lateral runout? scored balls in the birfield? How much of any of this is acceptable? Must you disassemble the birfield itself to see ball damage, or is is visible in an assembled joint, after you clean off the grease? Beyond the balls, what wears in a Birfield?

My '95 FZJ birfields have clicked on hard turn starts (unlocked) for years, and yet when you examine the joint, it appears, looks, and feels as new. The birfields in my FJ40/55/60 trucks have always had more apparent play and looseness.

I'd like to buy new Birfields and 'fix' my clicking, but I have no idea if they are really 'bad'

Thanks,

Steve