Click - no start

[Ducks]

I assume it is the starter. Voltage on the meter is fine for the battery. Should I just pull the starter and have it rebuilt at Napa? Get a new one? This is a daily driver so I need to have it fixed ASAP.

Thanks,
Chad

 

[WES1977]

I assume it is the starter. Voltage on the meter is fine for the battery. Should I just pull the starter and have it rebuilt at Napa? Get a new one? This is a daily driver so I need to have it fixed ASAP.

Thanks,
Chad

I've got the same problem but I can try it multiple times and get it to work. I assume it's the solenoid, but it seems the more I use it the better it gets.

I'm thinking about taking mine to a local alternator starter rebuild place.

This has also happend on my tacoma a couple years ago. We had a hurricane and I went through some deep water, the next week my starter didn't work every time. It did this for a little over a week, then stopped. That was like 2 years ago.


Maybe a used one from cruiserparts.net and get your other one rebuilt. but the local rebuilders usally can do it in a day.

 

[rondog]

solenoid problem!

Sounds like the solenoid! You can get a hammer and bang on the solenoid a little bit, if it starts wich it probably will you know thats it.That is the main symptom though that I know of for click - no start trouble.Good luck.

I assume it is the starter. Voltage on the meter is fine for the battery. Should I just pull the starter and have it rebuilt at Napa? Get a new one? This is a daily driver so I need to have it fixed ASAP.

Thanks,
Chad

 

[Cruiserdrew]

It's likely the starter contacts. Universal problem with the Denso starter. It's about a $20 fix. I can lend you a good starter while you order the parts from Cruiserdan. I will pm my phone # if you want to come by today.

 

[REKCUT]

Voltage may be fine at the battery but have you tried the meter at the starter. Your cables could be have bad contacts and your connections at the ground could be bad. Make sure these are all clean and that your getting good juice to the starter. On these old trucks a good mod is to do all new cables. I used 1/0 welding cable which is much larger. If the connections all look good then try the contacts and solenoid.

 

[Cruzerman]

Assuming the battery and cables are OK, then I agree with Cruiserdrew. Starter contacts. Easy and cheap fix.

 

[forestdan7]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...tarter-rebuild.html?highlight=starter+rebuild

That'll most likely take care of it.

 

[mkaustin]

That write up looks nice. I'd like to add one thing to the instructions. When putting the new contacts in place, take a large screwdriver and push the contacts down (the direction the plunger travels) firmly to the plate (the orange paper in Step 12 from above) while tightening the 14mm nut. This is to insure that the contacts will be setting level when all is said and done.
I'll bet that this is the reason for the 8-9 tries to get the starter to work the first time. Before putting the back plate on, make sure that the plunger sets flat across both contacts.
I generally buy the contacts at the local starter/alternator rebuilders and reuse the rest of the nuts/bolts/insulators.
I've done this twice on the mini truck ('85) and once on the Cruiser ('89). Approx $12 total all three times. 200+ miles on both.
I may have to "renew" the starter w/ OEM pieces the next time.

 

[MoGas]

I did a write up on Expedition Portal. I used a press to keep the contacts flat while torquing.

Dave

 

[Cruiser-Randy]

I printed both topics and the illustrated tutorial. Great job there!

Today I went out to start up a 1986, 24-volt Land Cruiser, automatic. The radio and horn work, but when I put the key to start, no click, no start. I recognize the solenoid click (been through that a few times in my life), but this is just NOTHING.

I nearly melted booster cables trying to boost it (then checked the manual for the 3-cable connection routine I should have used).

So, that's that. Maybe voltage meters next to see if batteries are good, then maybe a tow truck to a diesel mechanic. Need to find one of them around here, too.

 

[mkaustin]

Cruiser-Randy

Make sure that the starter signal wire has not come off the starter. I get this occasionally on my starter. My starter lost the receiver clip on the starter, so the wire does not snap into place.
I've circled the culprit in the picture below. (picture stolen from Zcruiser's article above)

 

[Cruiser-Randy]

mkaustin:

Thank you. I have determined that the starter is one of those things you cannot get to from the driver's seat, so I opened the hood. I see what looks to be the alternator (up top, visible without going under the car), with something on top of it that looks like maybe a starter or fuel pump, except that something else on the other side looks like a fuel pump and is connected to what appear to be fuel lines.

Most starters I have ever known were under the engine (gas engines, years ago).

I have some shop manuals and stuff, will see if one of them locates the starter, or, after work, change into old clothes and go crawl under the thing.

 

[Ducks]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I hope it is the starter because I'm putting a rebuilt one in today. If it is the solenoid, which I guess it could be, then I'll have to wait until I can get one of those.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I hope it is the starter because I'm putting a rebuilt one in today. If it is the solenoid, which I guess it could be, then I'll have to wait until I can get one of those.

There is no separate solenoid on a gear reduction starter. The "solenoid" is the plunger and contact mechanism, so you're good. The contacts and plunger flange are basically the high amerage contacts for the main current which spins the starter motor.

Remember to disconnect the battery first thing before you even look for the starter. That will prevent you from underhood welding.

 

[Ducks]

There is no separate solenoid on a gear reduction starter. The "solenoid" is the plunger and contact mechanism, so you're good. The contacts and plunger flange are basically the high amerage contacts for the main current which spins the starter motor.

Remember to disconnect the battery first thing before you even look for the starter. That will prevent you from underhood welding.

Thanks for the tip. Was a little concerned about unplugging that big wire.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I'm currently replacing the contacts and plunger in mine. I noticed a lot of oil and grit down there. Make sure when reassembling that the back of the alternator that attached to the engine is clean and making full contact. This helps the grounding.

 

[Cruiser-Randy]

Howdy. I know where my alternator is. Can someone give me a hint where the starter is in relation to the alternator?

 

[mkaustin]

All the starters that I have ever seen (all gassers) have been on the fly-wheel at the back of the engine. Most of these have been under the vehicle. Chase the big cable coming off the positive lead of the batteries. One should lead to the starter.

 

[Cruiser-Randy]

Thanks, Michael. Tomorrow, the other LC is going in for this and that, and will be up on the hoist, so I can locate it, then find it on the disabled LC, check that cable and whatever else looks odd.

 

[Cruiser-Randy]

Update:

One tow truck later, and a good Toyota diesel mechanic: the neutral start/kill switch thing (that also controls the back-up lights) needed replacing.

Back on the road again!