Builds Classy build (triple locked) 2019

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Agreed. I’m about to wire up dual optimas without a front bumper and I’m just gathering reference points. Apparently Slee, and factory diesels wire via radiator.
I ran the dual cables in front of the radiator (thru the support brackets/channel) on my 4Runner and it had a MUCH smaller aftermarket bumper (flush with the nose and no hoop). I'd be more concerned with avoiding sharp edges, using the biggest cable you can manage to route, and ensuring your aux battery is mounted with the ground oubound (closest to fender). GOOD LUCK!!!
 
Did you run all 5 breathers to ARB breather kit or just the rear? In researching it, it appears the rear is the biggest concern. I'm in a 2018 LC.
 
Agreed. I’m about to wire up dual optimas without a front bumper and I’m just gathering reference points. Apparently Slee, and factory diesels wire via radiator.

I think the most important part is that the cables are fused properly rather than going via the radiator or the firewall. I went to the firewall when I did my dual battery system, but that was just because it made it easier for where I had room to put the SBI12. The SBI12 will allow me to link the two batteries to jumpstart if the main is dead.
 
Did you run all 5 breathers to ARB breather kit or just the rear? In researching it, it appears the rear is the biggest concern. I'm in a 2018 LC.
Not 100% sure since it was part of the build, and the truck is just shipping out tomorrow or Tuesday, so I'll have it by end of the week. If I had to guess - just to front and rear diff, since those were being worked on (gears and lockers).
 
Thanks. Rear diff breather is low for sure. Others I have found to be about door handle height or a little above. Dont plan on forging that deep...or then it becomes the USS LC200.
 
Thanks. Rear diff breather is low for sure. Others I have found to be about door handle height or a little above. Dont plan on forging that deep...or then it becomes the USS LC200.
I have a FJ40 to play "sub commander" with ;-)
 
Not judging, but just curious: why did you use 2 red tops and not 2 yellows? Also, did you route battery cables to firewall or across the radiator?
The cables from battery to battery go in front of the core support.
 
The cables from battery to battery go in front of the core support.
For clarity: They go in front of the radiator so basically behind the grill.
 
@Dan Higgins - I take my trucks out to the local OHV park above Shasta Dam for local fun. I can also head up todawrd Mt Shasta, and find good trails headig west towards the Trinity's/Marble Mtns. But mostly, this one will be used down in and around Tahoe and as an exploration vehicle in the West (love Moab, Bryce, many parts of CO, in-laws in Jackson WY, etc). AS to a Cruiser competent shop out here - no idea if Metal Tech will work on your truck, but I know Jason aka @TRAIL TAILOR will, and he's located in Redding. As the past Western Region Rep for TLCA, I pride myself in trying to meet fellow "Cruiser guys" when they are passing thru for a bite or quick cup of coffee...compare trucks/notes and BS a little ;) PM me if you're heading S on 5, and we'll meet up if I'm in Redding.

Thanks! I'll definitely make a trip down your way at some point over the next few months. I'll let you know. I need to make a trip to the Seattle area to meet with a couple folks up there as well. As for the ARB drawer system, I wouldn't mind having your dogs climb in my truck to check out the fit. But I don't know when I'll be down that way.
 
Thanks for the compliments, guys - "she's" mine. ....... Rear bumper TBD - most likely a Trail Tailor item as well, since Jason's shop is only a few miles from my home in Redding.

If you're up in NorCal you should might want to look into a Dissent rear bumper. Ben is in Grass Valley and did some amazing bumpers for my 200 recently.
 
If you're up in NorCal you should might want to look into a Dissent rear bumper. Ben is in Grass Valley and did some amazing bumpers for my 200 recently.

I'll give them a call after I talk to Jason at Trail Tailor - too easy with his shop literally less than 10 miles form my home.

I heard rumors of a potential project with @Dissent and @Eric Sarjeant !

I was told Eric's 2020 HE is heading to Dissent on the same truck that's bringing me my 200 this week.
 
Definitely interested to see the HE build.
 
If you're up in NorCal you should might want to look into a Dissent rear bumper. Ben is in Grass Valley and did some amazing bumpers for my 200 recently.

Is there a thread with your bumpers? Really interested in aluminum bumpers.
 
Hey @nor_cal_cyclist, saw that you ordered BudBuilt skids but you have a Slee KDSS relocation installed.

Our front skid plate doesn’t work with the KDSS relocation in standard setup

We used to make an “easy to cut away” front skid for the relocation, but after I saw how quickly the relocation setup destroys the factory end link bushes, I took out the laser etched cut lines as some of the hardest wheeling guys in this 200 community dropped that off their trucks.

Shoot me an email at tech@budbuilt.com and I could either swap your front skid out, or show you where you need to cut.
 
Hey @nor_cal_cyclist, saw that you ordered BudBuilt skids but you have a Slee KDSS relocation installed.

Our front skid plate doesn’t work with the KDSS relocation in standard setup

We used to make an “easy to cut away” front skid for the relocation, but after I saw how quickly the relocation setup destroys the factory end link bushes, I took out the laser etched cut lines as some of the hardest wheeling guys in this 200 community dropped that off their trucks.

Shoot me an email at tech@budbuilt.com and I could either swap your front skid out, or show you where you need to cut.

Definitely check with Taco2Cruiser, but this may help. Bud Armor with KDSS Slee relocation bracket. Zip-Zip:
 
Definitely check with Taco2Cruiser, but this may help. Bud Armor with KDSS Slee relocation bracket. Zip-Zip:
Man... those must be some first gen skids. @nor_cal_cyclist had the new version seen below. Notice the cutouts.
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Separate of that, if something doesn’t fit, please tell us. We stand behind everything we make but we don’t know if there is an issue unless someone tells us there is an issue. We fix issues by replacing it (and paying all shipping), and ensure that no more go out. Also, @indycole that’s your stainless steel engine skid.

No what I’m talking about is this:
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Notice the laser cuts, that needs to be cut away if the 200 has a KDSS relocation.
 
Is there a thread with your bumpers? Really interested in aluminum bumpers.

No but here's a shot of the work Ben at Dissent did. Everything is top notch quality. I couldn't be happier with the end result from his shop. I dropped the 200 off this morning for the final push on the build (kings, trd pro wheels, etc), I'll post up a build thread once done.

Thread will start soon

This is going to be a fun build to see. Ben does outstanding work, can't wait to see how that one turns out....going to be one of the baddest 200's out there. Awesome stuff Eric!

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Just a thought...since it seems like decisions are still being made...

I can’t help noticing the bolts and holes that could make for some pretty nasty catch-points if actually “skidding” against rock or other hard obstacles. Sliding over those bolts is gonna be grabby...& may damage the bolt heads themselves...
D8644FEF-F83C-4C8E-86D0-31A3761B51FF.jpeg


I mention because transitions while “skidding” are kind of a big deal with our massively heavy trucks.

For comparison, have a look at the BudBuilt skids on my truck below. No catch-points...no bolts sticking down...no big holes rearward.

Front piece here...
C126C015-541E-43A5-8259-5FBDC8D35437.jpeg


Now take a look at the bolt-free transitions between pieces along the full skid set below.

(sorry for the trail mud)...
:hillbilly:
-You can see below that the only protruding bolts at all are clear up by the radiator and out of the way, and no large holes to hook pointed obstacles anywhere rearward:
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Also notice the oil-change access door (above) is hard to even see (zoom in...it’s there)...because its super flush & tolerances are nice and tight.

I would maybe talk to your skid guy and see if they have any thoughts on creating a smoother skidding surface to avoid bolt catching/damage...or maybe find out if they’ve already addressed this in a later tweak...?

Edit:
Re the KDSS clearance question on BB skids... I had a choice on that with my skids. -I could leave them as is no KDSS cut-out, or keep max protection assuming no relocation. So either way...there is no problem with these excellent skids. If I were to return to KDSS relo at some point in the future, iI can just cut out that small part to accommodate.
 
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