Builds Chronicles of a Cruiser (2 Viewers)

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This is what i have. Red/green/blue/black
View attachment 3360860

I emailed aob because their instructions do not match the pigtail supplied. Their response,

“red power in from fuse box
green power out to activate the relay
blue is for dash lights (optional)
black to ground”

Still leaves me wondering where to connect the blue wire.
If I am thinking correctly, the blue wire will illuminate the switch in question. If there is another switch near by that illuminates when the headlights are on I would try and find that switches source of power during illumination and run the blue wire off that wire. Hopefully that makes sense.
 
Digging deeper, how do i get the switch backlight to act/dim along with the remaining interior lights?

Seems if i just connect to the green 12v going in to the rheostat, the new switch backlight will just be on with no adjustment??
 
Digging deeper, how do i get the switch backlight to act/dim along with the remaining interior lights?

Seems if i just connect to the green 12v going in to the rheostat, the new switch backlight will just be on with no adjustment??
Correct, but the switch more than likely has an LED backlight. It won't dim like the rest of the dash lights and might just switch off instead, hence solid green.
 

Good read, would solve your backlight issues.
 
Today I discovered when i went to rebuild the seat gears with gamiviti plastic replacements that someone has already been in there and replaced the gears with brass style. Both my seats work but they pulsate when moving forward and backwards (reason I wanted to rebuild).

So, because the brass gears are one solid piece and they looked in good shape I cleaned everything up and re-greased everything before reinstalling. Well, both seats still pulsate.

Any ideas on this one folks??
 
Mostly fixed the issue. Its about 99% smooth as butter now.

I believe i had the 5mm allen bolts too tight. They are now just snug and things have smoothed out.

Its these bolts.
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Another fun project completed and running great. It’s satisfying to have all components working as intended. The rear bearings and seals definitely needed to be done. The bearings we’re running in pure gear oil.
 
Some of us have removed the rear axle inner seals and are running the bearings in straight gear oil intentionally. I've got 70k miles running this way and the rear bearings are still running well.
 
Some of us have removed the rear axle inner seals and are running the bearings in straight gear oil intentionally. I've got 70k miles running this way and the rear bearings are still running well.
Hmm did not know that. Whats the advantage there??
 
In my opinion it's a little easier to setup the rear axle if you don't have to remove/replace that inner seal and do the grease packing. A light coating of grease when installing the bearings and no seal makes for faster service and then in the future as long as no issues come up with the bearings you only have to change the diff oil.

Another possible benefit is that if you get contamination from a water crossing or similar you can just change the axle oil and not need to change the bearing grease separately.

I'm not qualified to say if straight gear oil vs. grease is superior for lube but it's at least sufficient and some say it's superior. I suppose that both grease and oil in good condition are more than good enough so the question would be in edge cases like poor maintenance, contamination, overheating or ???
 
Those are good points. Before the rebuild I did notice the hubs were quite warm to the touch on occasion. But, could have been a bearing issue? I have no idea when the last rebuild was. The little grease that was found remaining in the hub was crusty old.
 
Can someone school me on a battery situation? Im looking at a marine style battery that has normal posts and accessory posts. In my red truck i had SDHQ battery terminals that were awesome but I figure the battery im looking at is about the same cost. One is deep cycle, other is a starting battery. Both led acid.

I had an optima red top in the old truck which was AGM and never had an issue with charging. Whats the deal with people saying the alternator wont handle an AGM. The 1988 alternator did??

Deep cycle

Starting battery

The battery will not be running more than a winch and set of driving lights.
 
I’ll do a battery when my current one dies. In the meantime i got the moroso battery terminals coming for the winch hook up. $60 vs 139 for the SDHQ style.

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