Christo Slee's disjointed comment and pictures Thread

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nice job, Hoser. Indeed body mounts are very close. Frame not that different front and back either. (Same scale drawings, right?)
 
1) 80 series frame
2) 100 series frame
3) superimposed

Difficult to see but it looks like most of the body mounts already line up or near line up. The 80 and 100 also have the exact same wheelbase.



Great job! You are one resourceful guy!
 
If I were more resourceful, I could find the 100 frame specs like the 80 pictured above. Then we'd could be more sure. Any body shop owners have access to that info?
 
Well, looking at the frame over frame comparision, it doesn't look like swapping 80 axles under a 100 series would be that much of a PITA, since it looks like the difference in width between the two is completely from the bloated body.

How much different in axles are we talking about?

Won't a different backspacing on the wheels make up for the difference?
 
Well, looking at the frame over frame comparision, it doesn't look like swapping 80 axles under a 100 series would be that much of a PITA, since it looks like the difference in width between the two is completely from the bloated body.

How much different in axles are we talking about?

Won't a different backspacing on the wheels make up for the difference?

Why?

Why swap out the rear axle when the 100 axle is 100% capable to do the job?

Why throw an 80 front axle in there when the Diamond Axle Slee used flexes better and it too is strong.
 
Why?

Why swap out the rear axle when the 100 axle is 100% capable to do the job?

Why throw an 80 front axle in there when the Diamond Axle Slee used flexes better and it too is strong.

I'm only brainstorming here, but

- going with 80 axles keeps all of the axle components factory, and allows for factory elocker option, switches the 100 axle from a semi-float to a FF rear, while addressing the 5-lug to 6 lug (which has to be done already with Christo's process).

I'm just wondering if there would be a cost savings with picking up 80-locker axles versus a Diamon Axle, and all the mods to both axles to get them under the truck? Not considering the cost of modding the truck because that is a wash, since it has to be done with either axle combo.
 
Well, looking at the frame over frame comparision, it doesn't look like swapping 80 axles under a 100 series would be that much of a PITA, since it looks like the difference in width between the two is completely from the bloated body.

I think the picture is misleading or not to scale. There is a much bigger difference between the front frame horns than shown on the picture.

How much different in axles are we talking about?
WMS to WMS is 5" wider on 100 than 80.

Won't a different backspacing on the wheels make up for the difference?

We are running 80 wheels (4.5" backspacing) and it worked out pretty good.
 
WMS to WMS is 5" wider on 100 than 80.

We are running 80 wheels (4.5" backspacing) and it worked out pretty good.

5" is significant, with 2.5" more inward on each side. I suppose to make up for that different if an 80 front axle was used, the wheel backspacing could be decreased to 2" b.s., but then there are probably more issues with using a shorter axle in terms of articulation.
 
I'm only brainstorming here, but

- going with 80 axles keeps all of the axle components factory, and allows for factory elocker option, switches the 100 axle from a semi-float to a FF rear, while addressing the 5-lug to 6 lug (which has to be done already with Christo's process).

Factory e-locker can be had for the semi floater as well. Getting the axles and brakes redrilled for 6 lugs is way cheaper than retrofitting a 80 axle. Only advantage would be the regearing of the 80 axle over the 100 axle. More expensive.

I'm just wondering if there would be a cost savings with picking up 80-locker axles versus a Diamon Axle, and all the mods to both axles to get them under the truck? Not considering the cost of modding the truck because that is a wash, since it has to be done with either axle combo.

If you are narrower (80 axle), the mounting of the control arms becomes an issue. It will get more complicated. Also I do not believe the front 80 diff is strong enough for this truck when you exceed 35" tires. There are many ways to do it and I am sure a 80 axle might work, but for us the benifits of the fabricated housing far outweighed the cost savings.
 
5" is significant, with 2.5" more inward on each side. I suppose to make up for that different if an 80 front axle was used, the wheel backspacing could be decreased to 2" b.s., but then there are probably more issues with using a shorter axle in terms of articulation.

It changes the scrub radius of the tire and causes all kinds of clearance issues. Especially when turned.

There is also the added benefit that the diamond housing has two axle seals, one at the diff side and one at the knuckle side. So no more contamination. Also the diff portion has better ground clearance than the factory diff.

100SAS_39.jpg

Shows the inside of the diff and the seal area.

100SAS_37.jpg

Shows the axle tube thickness.

100SAS_62.jpg

Shows how easy it is to work with a nice round tube.

100SAS_44.jpg

Shows the mounting of the arms to the frame. You can see that if you are inboard 2.5" it causes all kinds of other issues.
 
It changes the scrub radius of the tire and causes all kinds of clearance issues. Especially when turned.

When turning - duh. I knew I was forgetting something.
 
I think the frame over frame image threw me off. It looked as though the frame sets between the two models were the same to compensate for the body mounts, while the 100- axles were just designed longer for the wider body.
 
Speaking of frame width? Width, whatever. I remember Slee telling me when I got his first rear bumper off the line:

"This bumper is WIDE. My 80 bumper fits INSIDE my 100 bumper width-wise."
 

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