- Thread starter
- #121
Oh if you're getting in there, absolutely might as well!
Ive got 192k and change. Soooooo right around the corner for ya!
Builds Chicken's GX (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter stupidchicken03
- Start date
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Ive got 192k and change. Soooooo right around the corner for ya!
Yup - might was well do it. Just ordered via the provided links. Hoping to never have to crack mine open again! I use the manual shift feature all the time for towing so it's pretty important.Oh if you're getting in there, absolutely might as well!
Ive got 192k and change. Soooooo right around the corner for ya!
- Thread starter
- #123
I use it here and there just driving through our neighborhood. I drive 20 or slower thru the neighborhood and nice to nice drag the brake the whole time.
I sure used the manual mode at the cabin over the weekend. Again, driving slow around house to begin with, but there is also a roughly 300ft elevation gain up from the main road.. so coming back down - especially in the snow/ice it was nice to use.
While ive got all that open, ill also try adjusting the parking brake cable under there. Mine has been "loose" since I bought it.. having to yank the handle as much as i can when parking on an incline. Give this a go to see if there is enough adjustment there, if not, ill be pulling the rear wheels off and adjusting at the drums.
- Thread starter
- #124
Also, in slightly different news, I got accepted into the Diode Dynamics Ambassador Program. So if anyone is gunna place an order with them, lmk and I know I can at least get free shipping for the time being.
Ive personally been using some of their products in my Crosstrek for the last 6.5 years (full interior bulb swap, and added rear tailgate overhead LED strip) and love their stuff. All designed, made, packaged and sold in the US.
-Diodedynamics LEDs
---map/dome - "Cool white" in SMF6 (94 lumens)
---cargo - "Cool white" in SMD12 Board (118 lumens)
---rear license - "Pure White 5k" and "HP5 92 lumens"
DIY write up for rear cargo lighting: Applies to All Model Years - Rear Hatch LED strip - https://www.subaruxvforum.com/threads/rear-hatch-led-strip.175937/
Thinking something similar would be easy and useful for the GX, maybe something with adjustable lighting this time around hah.
Ive personally been using some of their products in my Crosstrek for the last 6.5 years (full interior bulb swap, and added rear tailgate overhead LED strip) and love their stuff. All designed, made, packaged and sold in the US.
-Diodedynamics LEDs
---map/dome - "Cool white" in SMF6 (94 lumens)
---cargo - "Cool white" in SMD12 Board (118 lumens)
---rear license - "Pure White 5k" and "HP5 92 lumens"
DIY write up for rear cargo lighting: Applies to All Model Years - Rear Hatch LED strip - https://www.subaruxvforum.com/threads/rear-hatch-led-strip.175937/
Thinking something similar would be easy and useful for the GX, maybe something with adjustable lighting this time around hah.
- Thread starter
- #125
Very curious.. my pin/sping fix-it kit from the land down under, which I placed just about 5pm PST yesterday... is slated to arrive by this Thursday via USPS.
Wondering if the maker/owner has friends/family in the states and keeps a large stockpile of parts "locally" for quick delivery.
If that is the case... that $20 shipping charge is extremely excessive lol.. I know a large padded flat rate envelope is less than $8
Wondering if the maker/owner has friends/family in the states and keeps a large stockpile of parts "locally" for quick delivery.
If that is the case... that $20 shipping charge is extremely excessive lol.. I know a large padded flat rate envelope is less than $8
- Thread starter
- #126
Kit arrived... and it mailed out from Milpitas CA, which is roughly 2hrs southwest from here... not Australia and it only cost $5.10 for shipping not the $20.50 I was charged.. not happy about that. Going to shoot an email to them about that.
- Thread starter
- #128
Will do!
I also "miscalculated" the shipping.. they charge $20.50 AUD.. to USD it was "only" $13.50..... but still over $8 more than it actually cost. Waiting for a response back though.
- Thread starter
- #129
Got a response
I mean, I get it... but still kinda wonky.
Im sure he's shipping dozens of these kits to "someone he trusts in CA" (aka a family member with the same last name lol) to save bulk shipping and im fairly certain the he's prepackaged all of them - so his family member in CA just has to write the recipients address on the envelope and take to the post office for postage (based off the sent address in the Bay Area, the post office is only 2.3 miles from their house too). Generally, the cost of the part has everything he listed built into the selling price (material cost, labor cost, etc). So sounds like he slimmed the selling price down and upped the shipping cost.
Whatever really. Just a bit misleading and he's making more than the listed part price but oh well.
The reason I believe he's shipping them to CA pre-packaged is due to the fact that the small padded envelope has metric printed dimensions lol
I mean, I get it... but still kinda wonky.
Im sure he's shipping dozens of these kits to "someone he trusts in CA" (aka a family member with the same last name lol) to save bulk shipping and im fairly certain the he's prepackaged all of them - so his family member in CA just has to write the recipients address on the envelope and take to the post office for postage (based off the sent address in the Bay Area, the post office is only 2.3 miles from their house too). Generally, the cost of the part has everything he listed built into the selling price (material cost, labor cost, etc). So sounds like he slimmed the selling price down and upped the shipping cost.
Whatever really. Just a bit misleading and he's making more than the listed part price but oh well.
The reason I believe he's shipping them to CA pre-packaged is due to the fact that the small padded envelope has metric printed dimensions lol
- Thread starter
- #131
Dug in this morning.
First time removing the cup holder in the center console.. man the folks who owned this prior to me were... ehhh. So much crud down there, including a USPS receipt from July 2005!
I first did the e-brake adjustment. Feels much more snug now, but I havnt driven/parked on an incline yet to see how it does.
Just used a ratcheting 12mm wrench to tighten the nut.
Found the original pin at the very bottom of the shift mech, used a telescoping magnet to pull it out
Fun fact, I used to sterilize operating rooms at night as a part time job while putting myself through college. They would throw away random OR tools from time to time.. so why not sterilize and keep, so here are my super fine needle nose OR pliers to remove the spring from the hole lolol
First time removing the cup holder in the center console.. man the folks who owned this prior to me were... ehhh. So much crud down there, including a USPS receipt from July 2005!
I first did the e-brake adjustment. Feels much more snug now, but I havnt driven/parked on an incline yet to see how it does.
Just used a ratcheting 12mm wrench to tighten the nut.
Found the original pin at the very bottom of the shift mech, used a telescoping magnet to pull it out
Fun fact, I used to sterilize operating rooms at night as a part time job while putting myself through college. They would throw away random OR tools from time to time.. so why not sterilize and keep, so here are my super fine needle nose OR pliers to remove the spring from the hole lolol
- Thread starter
- #132
OEM on the left vs replacement parts
Installed the replacement ones, and put the top of the shift mech back together so i could test the shifter. Feels back to normal!
Then I pulled everything back apart for a couple reasons.
1- I was going to replace the linkage bushing, but mine feels pretty fresh as is and shows no signs of giving up anytime soon.. So i made a call to leave it in. Ill keep the replacement one in the car if it every gives up while im out driving. Main reason, it's super easy to get to it, and requires zero special tools. Could honestly do it with just a flat head screwdriver, or maybe even just a house key.
2- I read a few posts where folks said that the ring/hole where the spring and pin live, broke on theirs. One guy said he was lucky and found the broke off piece and just used some JB weld to reattach it. A lot cheaper than a whole new $700 shift mech.. So i figured why not coat the exterior perimeter with JB to reinforce it as is.
As it sits. Ill let it cure for a day or so before putting everything back together.
Installed the replacement ones, and put the top of the shift mech back together so i could test the shifter. Feels back to normal!
Then I pulled everything back apart for a couple reasons.
1- I was going to replace the linkage bushing, but mine feels pretty fresh as is and shows no signs of giving up anytime soon.. So i made a call to leave it in. Ill keep the replacement one in the car if it every gives up while im out driving. Main reason, it's super easy to get to it, and requires zero special tools. Could honestly do it with just a flat head screwdriver, or maybe even just a house key.
2- I read a few posts where folks said that the ring/hole where the spring and pin live, broke on theirs. One guy said he was lucky and found the broke off piece and just used some JB weld to reattach it. A lot cheaper than a whole new $700 shift mech.. So i figured why not coat the exterior perimeter with JB to reinforce it as is.
As it sits. Ill let it cure for a day or so before putting everything back together.
- Thread starter
- #133
Put the top plate of the shift mech back together and gave it a test shift: Shifting mech fixed
This is how the shifter felt/acted when the pin went ejecto seato from the housing: shift mech pin failure (easy enough to shift with 1 finger, and did not stay in gear)
And per usual, basically the hardest part of this whole thing was getting the center console trim back in place
Sometimes super quick/easy, other times pain in the dick getting the shift boots and e-brake boots lined up to slip over hahah.
Gunna drive it later today picking up the nuggets from school/daycare and see how the e-brake feels after the adjustment.
This is how the shifter felt/acted when the pin went ejecto seato from the housing: shift mech pin failure (easy enough to shift with 1 finger, and did not stay in gear)
And per usual, basically the hardest part of this whole thing was getting the center console trim back in place
Sometimes super quick/easy, other times pain in the dick getting the shift boots and e-brake boots lined up to slip over hahah.
Gunna drive it later today picking up the nuggets from school/daycare and see how the e-brake feels after the adjustment.
- Thread starter
- #134
Drove around this afternoon, tested the e-brake on some slight inclines and its a big difference. All is working as it should
Very nice job lately! it's the small stuff that feels good to do.
