Can u tell me if these wheels will fit my 1997 LC
http://poconos.craigslist.org/pts/4852716459.html
Thanks!!
http://poconos.craigslist.org/pts/4852716459.html
Thanks!!
Chevy wheels fit Fzj80(1997) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Godzillafzj80
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lug patter is the same. just the center hole may be smaller diameter and wont fit over the hub
The center bore(ID) for Chevy is about 92mm. The Land Cruiser hub has a 106mm OD. The bolt pattern fits, but you won't get them over the hubs without a wheel stretcher.
A wheel stretcher? This cant be real.
Those appear to be aftermarket rims...if so they probably have a sufficient hub bore. I assume they will use conical lug nuts to make them lug-centric, otherwise you will need hub rings to fill whatever gap there may be between the hub and bore.
I'd pass on them...rims are ugly and the tires look rather unevenly worn...the one is down to nothing on that inside edge.
I'd pass on them...rims are ugly and the tires look rather unevenly worn...the one is down to nothing on that inside edge.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thank you all for the info
You'll need 108mm+ hub bore, most 6 lug Chevy wheels do not have it.
I showed this to AutoZone and asked to rent the tool for my wheels I wanted to use. They said I would need to use a 1/2 drive to be able to expand to bore size as it is a lot of metal to expand. Cool, free rental! Oddly enough, the expander(sp?) tool didn't go up to 4.0" or greater without..well, coming apart. I took the tool back and asked for a larger one and all they said was something about coffee can or Cummings something. Not sure what they meant. Autozone did not have a larger expand-er, so I grabbed some exhaust pipe sections, several of them, to make the shim to expand the wheel. I used a section of 2", 2.5" and 3.5" to make up the space needed, then proceeded to 'expand'. Gawd, what a work out. I had breaker bars out and everything. I click on your image @Golgo13 and found it was named "AU083" which came up as some expand-er and other were using it with tail pipe spacers (also) for wheel stretchers. Cool. That is when things went crazy. I proceeded to use any tool I had, so out came my pneumatic impact in a 1/2 drive - perfect right? For the life of me I could not get any more expansion then about 3.625" and I needed at least 4.2+. I only expanded it 1/4" at this point. But it stated to roll and crack the hub center; figured I would just sand it out. Then I tired again. BOOM goes the tool. Returned it for another, they were surprised, but I forgot to mention the impact use. Whatever...It's free. The next attempt was not successful either. I just got back from the eye doctor, he had to use a magnet for some reason.
I would not suggest this tool, just didn't really seem to work. Maybe I need 160 psi or more with the impact?
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
Ok, so you tried to stretch a wheel, stressing the metal that a 5000+ lb vehicle rides on? You bucking for a Darwin award?
, Kidding, I got such a kick out of the wheel center tool and I could not stop myself.
@Bax454 I thoroughly enjoyed that post. I knew you must be kidding, especially since you obviously caught the joke and still managed to reel in flank...
On another note, with modern machining equipment, the standard machining tolerance for an aluminum wheel. Since the center bore is a datum for all other operations, it is typically held under 0.1mm. The mounting face and wheel center are the respective primary and secondary datums for all other machining operations. If memory serves me right, total indicator runout at the rim(using the mentioned datums) is ~0.7mm(industry standard by the "Akron runout machine"). This is better than "close enough" given the variations in ANY tire. These days hub-centric or lug-centric is a moot point (using the correct lug nuts) unless the design of the wheel requires some load to be transferred through the centerbore of the wheel.
In the past, I've known of other manufacturers drilling the center bore slightly off-center to account for the variation of the tires. This way the tires/rims could be match-mounted and reduce the overall runout of the tire/wheel assembly. The low point of the wheel is matched to the high point of the tire and the two partially cancel out. Otherwise you have a "perfect" wheel and any radial variation in the tire sounds like a "thump."
On yet another note, no other manufacturer, with possible exception to Hutchinson, has wheel durability requirements on par with a Land Cruiser. Please keep in mind that when I say that I am also including the vehicle weight rating. Of course a wheel from a dump truck is stronger, but comparing to any vehicle with a similar GAWR, nobody is going to beat this vehicle. Like Hebrew National, these standards answer to a higher authority.
On another note, with modern machining equipment, the standard machining tolerance for an aluminum wheel. Since the center bore is a datum for all other operations, it is typically held under 0.1mm. The mounting face and wheel center are the respective primary and secondary datums for all other machining operations. If memory serves me right, total indicator runout at the rim(using the mentioned datums) is ~0.7mm(industry standard by the "Akron runout machine"). This is better than "close enough" given the variations in ANY tire. These days hub-centric or lug-centric is a moot point (using the correct lug nuts) unless the design of the wheel requires some load to be transferred through the centerbore of the wheel.
In the past, I've known of other manufacturers drilling the center bore slightly off-center to account for the variation of the tires. This way the tires/rims could be match-mounted and reduce the overall runout of the tire/wheel assembly. The low point of the wheel is matched to the high point of the tire and the two partially cancel out. Otherwise you have a "perfect" wheel and any radial variation in the tire sounds like a "thump."
On yet another note, no other manufacturer, with possible exception to Hutchinson, has wheel durability requirements on par with a Land Cruiser. Please keep in mind that when I say that I am also including the vehicle weight rating. Of course a wheel from a dump truck is stronger, but comparing to any vehicle with a similar GAWR, nobody is going to beat this vehicle. Like Hebrew National, these standards answer to a higher authority.
Oh, and for those that haven't seen one, the tool shown as a "wheel stretcher" is actually for flaring exhaust pipe. That's real and actually can be done.
So basically you're saying nothing beats OEM rims?
You've got bigger problems than what it appears.
yup
I don't know if this will help but there is a lot of info here:
http://www.myboltpattern.com/
http://www.myboltpattern.com/
Does this apply to other Toyota wheels as well (ie FJ Cruiser)?
I dont know if I would go that far. Most OEM wheels are just cast alloy. There are dozens of manufacturers making forged wheels, and wheels that are just generally stronger than OEM. We'd all be bending the sh!t out of them if it weren't for the large tires...just like all the OEM wheels on heavy cars that easily wreck them on potholes.
