Chevy spring swap and RUF tech Qs (1 Viewer)

[Dirtnapp]

What's going on mud bros. I'm currently in the middle of a 63" Chevy spring and RUF swap on an 83 long bed.
So here's the story. I bought a sweet 83 a while back already x-over'd with an unknown aprox 3" lift that would beat you to tears on a choppy dirt road. I picked up the front pack from a reputable Toyota mod shop in town because every time I talked to them, they would try to talk me out of trail gear springs and push the Chevys with there custom front pack they put together that all there trucks run which seem killer for a good deal. So long story short I have mocked up the RUFs with the 63s and my pinion angle is flat up front. What can I do to correct this without adding a drop hanger in the front. The only reason I want to avoid using a drop hanger is because the 63s didn't give me much in the rear and the front already seems high. I also want to avoid using lift blocks to compensate also. If anyone has any ideas tips or questions don't hesitate. Thanks a lot.

Rob

 

[toyyota]

If you do the RUF, you should do the front spring mount. It moves the front axle forward so you can run larger tires. You adjust the ride height by adding leafs, usually takes two rear packs to make a front, because of the engine weight. You can easily cut the springs with a metal chop saw, to length. Using Chevys in the rear works well for flex, but can also cause axel wrap under load on loose trails. The rear ride height can be adjusted with blocks, or spacers or the rear shackle length. You will get about 3-4 inches of lift doing a RUF and Chevy swap. Bob

 

[Dirtnapp]

I already have my packs mocked up with 63s and rears up front. Why do I need to use a hanger if my stock mounts in the front of the truck accept the RUF? Like earlier mentioned, I am sitting front end high right now with no hanger, so it would even be worse. I hate blocks and I suppose an extra Chevy leaf would give me a little and equal a 3/4 ton pack.

 

[toyyota]

The front spring hanger does add a little lift, but the point is to move the axle forward, so your tires dont rub the firewall. Remove some front leafs to lower your ride height, for a lower center of gravity. (less likely to flop on off camber trails). If you put 3/4 ton springs in a light truck, it will lift the truck, but you may not like the ride on the road, or dirt. Put it all together, drive it and after the springs settle, adjust the number of leaf's.

 

[Dirtnapp]

The front spring hanger does add a little lift, but the point is to move the axle forward, so your tires dont rub the firewall. Remove some front leafs to lower your ride height, for a lower center of gravity. (less likely to flop on off camber trails). If you put 3/4 ton springs in a light truck, it will lift the truck, but you may not like the ride on the road, or dirt. Put it all together, drive it and after the springs settle, adjust the number of leaf's.

The hanger doesn't move the axle position, the rear springs themselves do from the orientation of the centerpins. The hanger would only drop the front dimension which inturn raises the front end and increases the pinion angle for the better. I agree with playing with the leaves and possibly removing one or two. Thanks again for the reply

 

[Bob_Garrett]

Another reason for replacing the front spring mount on the 1st gens is that it is a weak point and will eventually break if you wheel it hard.