Chevy Ram Jet 350 Project

[DPV7070]

Firewall looks great, especially love the use of tin foil! I'll be stealing that trick...

Did you use any sound deadener or just paint it? I'm hoping to have my firewall prepped and painted by this weekend.

Oh and let me know if you need a hi-profile clutch for whatever reason. I've got a brand new one I won't be using.

 

[stringtwelve]

I picked up the tin foil trick from some of the painters on one of my projects, it work's great.

No sound deadner, only paint. I plan on using dynamat or something equivalent on the interior firewall side of things.

Haha, I have both a hi-profile and low-profile on deck. I didn't want to risk delays if my pressure plate of choice didn't work.

 

[stringtwelve]

More parts arrived! We might be doing some fit-up this weekend!

 

[sadam_husain]

I actually have another low profile Centerforce pressure plate and matching clutch on the way. The paperwork for the Mark's 4WD adapter is a bit vague on whether or not a low profile is required so I figured I would compare the two.

What adapter kit are you running with your LT1?

Don't know what adaptor mines running, I've had the engine out a couple of times but never found any markings on it, its a proper cast alloy chev to landcruiser bellhousing it hasn't been modified to fit, most of our stuff out here is localy made Graeme Berry, Aussie Dellow or Marks Adaptors otherwise its a homemade adaptor plate on the back of an old chevy bellhousing.

My bellhousing bolts up to the LT1 ok but I had to change flywheels the LT1 uses a later externally balanced flywheel (1 piece mainseal crank), I got my clutch back from the shop today they gave it a good bead blasting, machined up the pressure plate and replaced the pressure plate side lining on the dual friction plate, only had 0.5-0.6mm wear from 3 years use but he said it was worth re-lining.

 

[stringtwelve]

There's nothing more disappointing than watching your UPS package status go from "out for delivery" to "updated delivery date, tomorrow". Oh well, guess fit-up will have to wait til tomorrow. On the plus side I was able to fab up a decent lift configuration to clear the tall intake using some 1" tubing as a spreader bar and some lengths of chain I had laying around.

Also, I learned something new today: NPT and MIP threads are the same. Funny thing is, they don't seem to screw into the fittings on my fuel pump the same!

Finally pulled the "let me talk to your supervisor" card with Summit to get the missing parts ironed out after I found out that Chevy doesn't have the replacements in stock and it will be another month before the "projected" ship date. They're going to talk to the Nevada Summit warehouse and see if they can crack a crate and get that missing box pulled and shipped to me. *Fingers Crossed*

The next card would be "come and get yer engine".

 

[stringtwelve]

Well all the parts are now in hand. Kudos to Summit Racing for going out of their way to get the missing parts shipped out.

Schedule is drawing out due to a death in the family but it is starting to take shape. Hope to test fit the engine and adapter for locating the mounts this weekend.

Any suggestions on hardware grade for bellhousing to tranny and also the pressure plate?

...via IH8MUD app

 

[stringtwelve]

Well, this project has met with another obstacle... the adapter kit from Marks DOES NOT WORK. I followed the instructions to the letter and even with the throw-out extension tube at it's max adjustment I can't get enough clearance between the pressure plate and throw out bearing. I have 4" from the face of the engine case to the high point of the pressure plate fingers. And I have 3 1/4" inches from the face of the adapter to the throw out bearing face... so it would be engaged all the time.

At this point all I can do is trim the extension tube down in my bandsaw and re-fit. But I shouldn't have to do this! Needless to say I'm frustrated. Time for some Jamesons and then bed. Try again tomorrow.

 

[Downey]

Dude, I just noticed your front motor mounts (welded to frame). The problem with that design (long steel bracket from the frame up to rubber cushion at the block) is that the hot riveted frame flexes so much that the long steel brackets rip the rubber cushions apart because they are moving around so dramatically. You'll need the newer style LS-1 type brackets that bolt onto the block, with rubber cushions at the frame where they are not moving around so much!!!!!

Oops, just saw above photo where you've already removed frame brackets--home run.

 

[stringtwelve]

Well the modification to the extension tube wasn't too bad after all. If I had bought the Marks 4WD kit at full price then I would be a bit more pissed. What I'm left with is just enough clearance from the throw out bearing and pressure plate to pass muster. If the clutch had been any taller it would never happen. And just for reference I ended up with this clutch: http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/cf361877--pressure-plate-11-gm-short-release/ not the one in my initial post since low profile and short throw was required.

I've also learned that the 3F bellhousing clocks the engine 7 degrees clockwise from dead center which makes things a bit interesting for fit up. This will eventually get changed out but I want to see how the drive line works with the current setup. You can see a bit of tilt in the head on pic. The centerline of the engine is also 2" towards the left side which is a bit more than I would like but clears the power steering pump and allows plenty of room for the clutch slave and clutch fork to do their job. The nice part about the engine mounts from Marks is that I can always slide it over if I decide to rework the geometry.

The other surprise from this kit is that it pushed the engine 3" forward from my previous setup so I MIGHT be forced into an electric fan setup. Pending test fit of the radiator...

Next on the list is to pull the engine, finish welding the mounts, install the driveshaft extension and then button her back up.

Here's a few progress pics:

 

[stringtwelve]

Got the mounts welded up and painted. Engine is now stabbed in and ready for goodies.

 

[stringtwelve]

Status Update:

So I've been studying about the infamous "Vortec Head Coolant Bypass" issue for the past couple hours. The old revision of the Ram Jet instruction manual found on Summit Racing's web site contains a statement that this bypass line is required for all engines equipped with Vortec heads regardless of year. However the NEW revision of the instruction manual that came WITH my engine has this statement omitted from the text. Which would lead you to believe it's no longer required...
I struck up a chat with Summit's tech support and after they placed a call to Chevrolet Performance confirmed that YES, the coolant bypass hose IS required.
Ok fine... than I also asked if I could run my heater hose from the 1/2" NPT port on top of the water pump to my heater inlet and simply place a tee along this line to drop down to the front right intake port to accomplish this bypass. They confirmed that it would work. I'm still mulling over this method since I'm curious how the pressure differential will change the flow from when the heater valve is open vs. closed.

Now, I will be running a heater with this setup along with two water temp senders (one for MEFI4 and one for the Dakota Digital gauges). That leaves me with limited options on where to land the return line from my heater core since I'm taking the vertical port on the right side (top) of the intake for the gauge sender. I'm thinking about putting a new radiator hose outlet on top of the intake that has an additional port for the return. (previous 350 had this installed)

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[stringtwelve]

Made some more progress this past weekend. Got the fenders, side skirts, grill, and other misc parts prepped, painted and installed. Also got the fuel pump, fuel filters, braided stainless supply and return fuel lines installed. Just need to finish plumbing in the tanks themselves to the selector solenoid.
Also began shoe-horning the 19 x 26 radiator into place. This is quite the challenge with the AC condenser coil directly in front. I have determined I will have to go with an electric fan setup to clear my serpentine belt system. The best clearance I could manage was 3/8" to 1/2" from the face of the fan clutch to the radiator and that just isn't enough to make me comfortable bouncing around and flexing on the trail. I ended up ordering Summit Racing's dual fan setup (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4851) and a Ron Francis controller (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-ar99).

I decided to bypass my heater installation until I can come up with a clean method. Until then I'm purely using a bypass hose from the top of the water pump to the intake manifold port. (See previous post for more info)

I need to find someone who can extend my AC lines to the opposite side of the engine bay to the new compressor...

Here are some progress pics:

 

[scrapdaddy]

Stringtwelve,

I've been following along and not trying to be wise guy, but could you just turn the condenser around? I just got done mounting mine and it looks to be able to go either way.

You're doing a great job, by the way!

 

[TCSTARK]

Absolutely beautiful/clean install! Keep up the solid work...

 

[stringtwelve]

Stringtwelve,

I've been following along and not trying to be wise guy, but could you just turn the condenser around? I just got done mounting mine and it looks to be able to go either way.

You're doing a great job, by the way!

I looked at that option but since my unit is in the left floorboard and its air dryer is also on the left fender I really don't gain anything from flipping it. At least this way I can keep my two hoses from unit-to-dryer and dryer-to-condenser the same length and only have to extend the unit-to-compressor and condenser-to-compressor hoses.

Absolutely beautiful/clean install! Keep up the solid work...

Thanks to both of you for the kudos... she's almost there!

 

[DomSmith]

If you haven't already done it I would suggest adding a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. If you ever have any running issues a quick look there will cross fuel pressure off the list.

 

[stringtwelve]

I'm all over it. It's not on the fuel rail, but it will perform the same function. I saw the one on your build and decided I would install something similar.

BTW, I've lost count on how many times I've read your thread. It's been an invaluable resource.
Quick question: How did you route your heater hoses? Did you do the "vortec" bypass like they recommend? It's hard to see the routing in your pictures.

 

[tawright]

Status Update:

So I've been studying about the infamous "Vortec Head Coolant Bypass" issue for the past couple hours. The old revision of the Ram Jet instruction manual found on Summit Racing's web site contains a statement that this bypass line is required for all engines equipped with Vortec heads regardless of year. However the NEW revision of the instruction manual that came WITH my engine has this statement omitted from the text. Which would lead you to believe it's no longer required...
I struck up a chat with Summit's tech support and after they placed a call to Chevrolet Performance confirmed that YES, the coolant bypass hose IS required.
Ok fine... than I also asked if I could run my heater hose from the 1/2" NPT port on top of the water pump to my heater inlet and simply place a tee along this line to drop down to the front right intake port to accomplish this bypass. They confirmed that it would work. I'm still mulling over this method since I'm curious how the pressure differential will change the flow from when the heater valve is open vs. closed.

Now, I will be running a heater with this setup along with two water temp senders (one for MEFI4 and one for the Dakota Digital gauges). That leaves me with limited options on where to land the return line from my heater core since I'm taking the vertical port on the right side (top) of the intake for the gauge sender. I'm thinking about putting a new radiator hose outlet on top of the intake that has an additional port for the return. (previous 350 had this installed)

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Stringtwelve

I have a similar setup although I don't have the Ram Jet intake. As you noted above for the bypass, I teed off the water pump line for the coolant bypass and it solved my overheating issues.

 

[DomSmith]

No bypass here. No overheating issues. I'll post up the heater hose routing next week when I get home.

 

[stringtwelve]

Well my new Summit Racing dual fan setup arrived this week so I've started tinkering with mounting methods for the fan and radiator combo. Its dimensions don't match the height of the radiator so I'm fabbing up some mounts that double as a shroud to make up the difference in size.

Had to trim around the inlet and outlet to get it squared up.

Trimmed off the rib in order to mount some flat stock as a brace.

Mocked up.

Bottom support / shroud complete.

The top will be a bit more complicated since I'm going to incorporate bracing forward to the grill and rearward to the shock towers. I'll give it another go tomorrow night.

I can't wait to turn the key on this thing!