chevy 6.5 turbo diesel swap thoughts

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Look at the mitsubishi swap it looks clean,

On the 6.5 having had one they aren't that bad as long as you don't load them down hard. Just remember they are a light duty diesel. I had one in a 9k lb truck with a nv4500. It was a dog even with some mods,

If you decide to do the swap make sure you get a good one, check compression on #8 at least, get a high flow water pump and run the biggest radiator you can, 6.5's run hot.. Also go with a early injection pump and eliminate the stupid waste gate controls.
 
Read up on the 6.5 here: 6.5L Diesel Engine - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

There are a few items to address that will improve the reliability of the 6.5. After that, I think it's a swell option for a 60-series. 150-175% of the HP/TQ of the 2f aught to make it pretty peppy too. Complete running diesel suburbans/pickups can be found under $3,000. Just don't expect crazy power or towing prowess (or as my buddy with a 7.3 powerstroke van calls it, warp drive)
 
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don't expect crazy power or towing prowess

I'm sure my 6.5 would smoke a set of 33s and would tow a boat or expedition trailer up hills at 70mph.

In my 3 ton dually only the biggest grades will slow me down when flat-towing my '40. No warp drive, but it's not a dog either.

I honestly don't think anyone would be disappointed and if you let your friends drive it they would be impressed.
 
I'm sure my 6.5 would smoke a set of 33s and would tow a boat or expedition trailer up hills at 70mph.

In my 3 ton dually only the biggest grades will slow me down when flat-towing my '40. No warp drive, but it's not a dog either.

I honestly don't think anyone would be disappointed and if you let your friends drive it they would be impressed.

X2,

I started w/a 1992 stk 6.5td dog, added the banks stinger kit which surprised me w/the added power, then did some more research during a rebuild which really bumped up the power. It pulls strong & I didn't have to buy a new $35,000 truck or buy a beat to death used ford or dodge diesel. In the past, my set to go wheeling weighed in around 9000lbs, plus the truck & would haul thru the hills of KY,TN, & NC w/no problems. I know it ain't a PS,Cummins, or dmax, but it does run good.
 
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I'm sure my 6.5 would smoke a set of 33s and would tow a boat or expedition trailer up hills at 70mph.

In my 3 ton dually only the biggest grades will slow me down when flat-towing my '40. No warp drive, but it's not a dog either.

I honestly don't think anyone would be disappointed and if you let your friends drive it they would be impressed.

Mine's not speedy when towing my 5500 lb trailer, but not much slows it down either. The biggest things I have to watch when towing are EGTs and coolant temps. When not towing or loaded nothing slows me down (I'm not a hot rodder). From some info I've been reading lately the stock turbo (high exhaust backpressure) may be one of the biggest culprits for high EGTs.

Don
 
From some info I've been reading lately the stock turbo (high exhaust backpressure) may be one of the biggest culprits for high EGTs.

Running the stock downpipe? Have it replaced with a 3" one. Not sure why chevy put in the twisted 2.5" POS when a 3" straight pipe fits in the same spot.
 
Running the stock downpipe? Have it replaced with a 3" one. Not sure why chevy put in the twisted 2.5" POS when a 3" straight pipe fits in the same spot.

Nope--GMs pownpipe sure was a mess wasn't it. Soot trap also gone.

2.5" exhaust crossover, Diamondeyes' 3" downpipe to 4" out and flowthrough muffler system and coming out behind the rear wheel. Dual thermo crossover, 2000 model year balanced flow water pump and restrictor between pump and crossover, 2002 DMax 9 blade fan, Heaths' heavy duty low temp turn on fan clutch (I still don't hear the fan come on), Torque convertor manual lockup switch, larger capacity tranny pan.

Other mods not connected to cooling; all four headlights on for high beam, boost fooler, oil pressure sender relay to power lift pump, manual high idle switch, extra gauges (boost, EGT, tranny temp, fuel pressure, engine coolant temp at #8 cylinder), "feed the beast" fuel mod, PMD with #9 resistor and relocated to between bumper and radiator, CS130 to CS144 alt, vacuum pump delete. Snorkle removal and turbomaster done by somebody previous to me.

I never have to worry about EGTs or temps unless I'm towing up a long hill. Then I do have to watch. I'm still looking for other possible reasons/mods that will help. I want to do water mist injection for towing, and different turbo, but lack of money has got in my way. I've been watching a thread on Diesel Place where a member has installed a Chinese HX40 knockoff and is getting very good results with better towing power (from low RPMs up to high RPMs) and lower EGTs. I do have the copper and brass radiator out of a 93 in my 94 pickup. According to Bill Heath these 6.5s prefer the aluminum rads.

Don
 
When I did my build, I went w/97 cooling mods, port matched the intake,head & exh. manifolds. Air to air intercooler, high pop injectors & turbo master. A friend gave me a GM8 turbo, it had a the stk 1992 GM1 on it, iirc. At med to upper RPM's, I didn't really see any added power w/it, but off the line there's more. I also tapered the inlet end of the of the upper intake, per Kennedy Diesels power tips. I needed a new rad so I went w/an alum one. I'm running about 15-16lbs of boost max, & EGT's are kept in check. I probably could up the boost, but I really don't see the need, power & temps are good, even on long pulls. FYI, W/no intercooler you really shouldn't go over 12lbs max. A major draw back the the 6.5 set up is the turbo going straight in to the intake. The air is too hot. You need to get the engine to breathe, w/a cool charge going in, & of course exhaust. There's a lot of material to remove inside the lower intake & a little bit in the head. Just port match to the intake gasket openings. The truck's a 1992 GMC C2500 mech inj, 4.11's.
 
Lots of great info. I may have a lead on an early 90's 6.5 for a really good price. Should know something on it soon. I'm really excited to get this project together for the wifey to drive. I need to put together the engine for my 55 then should be able to start on the diesel install for the 60. Would there be any reason I couldn't put an intercooler on a stock engine? Also where would I get an intercooler?
 
Lots of great info. I may have a lead on an early 90's 6.5 for a really good price. Should know something on it soon. I'm really excited to get this project together for the wifey to drive. I need to put together the engine for my 55 then should be able to start on the diesel install for the 60. Would there be any reason I couldn't put an intercooler on a stock engine? Also where would I get an intercooler?


Radiator shops usually sell intercoolers.
You can look online, but nothing beats pulling up to a shop and having a pro verify that his intercooler will fit your application.
 
An intercooler can be put on a stock motor. There is a thread on dieselplace(dot)com about aftermarket turbos (69 pages worth) where one member details his water to air intercooler install. Here's the link, starting on post 363.

Turbo upgrade - Page 37 - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

He has some concerns about things not being right so he swaps to a larger intercooler and here's his update, starting with post 521.

Turbo upgrade - Page 53 - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

There are some harsh words a few places in this thread as some people throw barbs back and forth at each other. But, if you can work your way past this you will be able to glean some very good turbo info, and a bit of IC info as well, from this thread if you read the whole thread.

There are some other threads I've seen about air to air intercoolers, but I can't seem to find them right now. Some have placed the intercoolers in the splash area below the radiator which could be an area prone to IC damage if not somehow protected. Others have used intercoolers out of Dodge Cummins applications which places the IC in front of the radiator.

There has been a general concensus that anything placed in front of the radiator can stress the already compromised cooling system of the 90's era 6.5 GM vehicles. The IDI 6.5TD has a built in cooling problem and GM did not do the 6.5 any favors with their penny pinching ways. There are some aftermarket solutions to this cooling issue that if GM had used initially the reputation of the 6.5 could be very different now.

If I can find more info on where to get intercoolers I'll post the info.

Don
 
My IC in my GMC P/U, is between the frame rails under the bumper, it is a 2wd truck, it's off road capabilities are very limited. It's been there for yrs & seems OK. I considered in frt or the rad, but didn't want to deal w/the added fabrication,$, & the possilbity of cooling issues. All my comments were what I did to my GMC C2500 P/U, which is intended to pull a load if need be. If I were considering installing a 6.5td in a FJ60, Id try it in pretty much in stk conditiion. I'd probably port match it, turbo master, good down pipe/exhaust & figuring out how to keep it cool. Be sure to have the proper gauges.
 
I ran a 6.2/NV4500 combo in my 60 for 9 years. No major problems.

A 6.5 would be a great engine for a 60. No major fitment issues. You might have to hack the inner fenders a little for the crossover pipe and turbo clearance.

I put a 3/4" steel plate between the frame and steering box to get clearance between the steering shaft and LH exh manifold.

It's better to stay away from 96 and newer GM blocks.
 
I haven't heard back from my line on a very cheap 6.5 yet. Worst case scenario I use the goodies off of it on a 6.2 like turbo exhaust manifold and belt system. I still have my fingers crossed that the engine is good. I have the tranny and tcase I intend to use. Just waiting on this engine to come through. I want to have it going by early January for the wifey. She's pretty excited. It'll fit my growing brood better than the tdi Jetta she currently drives.
what's a turbo master?
 
I do have allot of past experience with the 6.2 and 6.5 when I was die hard Chevy and that's all there was and yep there absolute crap. That is if you require reliability and or performance that the rest of the diesel world gets to enjoy (except 6.0 ford owners). If you are going to go through the trouble of a swap why not a better platform? I don't get it....."just because it was cheap" or "a buddy just gave it too me". dunno.....
I never had one Chev diesel that was "good". Read TSB's (Technical service bulletins) from the dealer about them. there will be hundreds or thousands.
Some of my problems. blown head gaskets, roached turbo, bad IP's, junk injectors, cracked heads (GM says that's "normal"), cracked piston skirts....maybe more.
good god don't put yourself through it! Toyota's are notoriously reliable don't ruin that with a GM turd.
:cheers:
 
what's a turbo master?

It is a mechanical, spring operated, wastegate controller. It replaces the vacuum operated, and what for some has been problematic, system found on the 94 and up electronic controls. Some people say the turbomaster hurts fuel mileage, some don't.

Don
 
An intercooler can be put on a stock motor. There is a thread on dieselplace(dot)com about aftermarket turbos (69 pages worth) where one member details his water to air intercooler install. Here's the link, starting on post 363.

Turbo upgrade - Page 37 - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

He has some concerns about things not being right so he swaps to a larger intercooler and here's his update, starting with post 521.

Turbo upgrade - Page 53 - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

I have a very similar intercooler setup on my 6.5. It's currently inop due to a pump wiring problem and not enough air-to-water cooling. I used a pair of oil coolers under the front bumper and there's not enough water volume, so on an extended climb the water just heats up and never cools back down. I cheaped out on instrumentation too, so I don't really know how well it's performing.

What I need to do is install a secondary radiator under the truck with an electric fan. I've got a spot picked out for it, I just need to get to the junkyard and pick up a small radiator, then adapt some tubing.

There's really no room to put anything in front of the radiator in my truck.
 
Some of my problems. blown head gaskets, roached turbo, bad IP's, junk injectors, cracked heads (GM says that's "normal"), cracked piston skirts....maybe more.
good god don't put yourself through it! Toyota's are notoriously reliable don't ruin that with a GM turd.
:cheers:

I'd like to give a rebuttal to this post. Please don't think of this as a put down of your feelings, just some thing I have found out about this motor.

If you let GM do your thinking then yes this is the big chance you take. GM shot themselves in the foot with their cost cutting measure, the bean counters won the skirmish but GM lost the war.

All motor manufacturers have had their share of problems. The early 7.3 had head bolt problems, the early cummins the killer dowell pin problem and the IP killing lift pump problem, and you're well aware of the 6.0 problems. The point I'm getting to is how the parent company faced the problem. Some of these motors reputations have survived because of how the problem was taken care of. Others have gone down the tube because of how they weren't taken care of.

The GM 6.2 6.5 blocks had a history of problems. Then in about 2000 Navistar took over and re-engineered the block, which is the 6.5 motor that the military currently is using and has been proven to be a much better block.

If you pay attention to the aftermarket parts suppliers enough has been learned that it is possible to find a good undamaged block, or maybe even a military take out, and build a reliable motor.
"blown head gaskets" Use ARP head studs and not the torque to yield bolts, make sure the deck and heads are clean and flat.
"roached turbo" The Gm turbo was notorious for too much back pressure, there are now other turbos already proven to be much better, and others currently in the process of being proven.
"bad IP's" The electronic IP had a problematic Stanadyne fuel system driver and many IPs were changed without checking the FSD first. Flight Systems came out with an aftermarket FSD that recently has been proven reliable.
"junk injectors" Genuine Bosch injectors have been proven reliable, other brands are hit and miss.
"cracked heads (GM says that's "normal")" GM was just trying to stay out of hot water, there are now some aftermarket suppliers, not chinese, that so far seem to have taken care of this problem, time will tell.
"cracked piston skirts" GM added piston squirters to cool and lubricate which helped, but this was eventually a cooling system problem, particularly around # 7 & 8 pistons. There are now cooling system upgrades that have taken care of most of the problem. Still some concerns, especially in the area of fan clutches that don't come on at low enough temps.

The 6.2 and 6.5 has had more than its' share of problems which can all be traced back to GMs' bean counters. The aftermarket suppliers have stepped up to give solutions to many of the problems. Overall, this motor CAN be made into a reliable one IF you spend some time learning about these aftermarket fixes.

This motor is cheaper to buy parts for than others such as Cummins and Fords' Powerstroke.

Will it ever be as powerfull as others? No, but it CAN be as reliable and give the others a run for their money in the power area.

I'm full aware of the shortcomings and am constantly searching and learning of ways to improve the motor. I can afford this motor and vehicle, where with any of the others it would be very questionable considering the prices of even used ones.

Don
 
I agree with post # 58 above..

But I think a lot of people come into these discussions with no history of the 6.2 or 6.5 and someone tells them that the motor is a good alternative to other options.... but then caveat that by saying well if you do steps 1-25...then you have something reasonable.

If you know how to work on the 6.2 or 6.5 and you find one for low dollar and then proceed to execute the modifications or maybe it has the various upgrades then thats fine...and most liekly its the best option for the dollars spent if you feel you need a deisel. Of course most things boil down to how much money do you want to spend over time and what can you get for that.

I'm not sure where you would take a 6.2 or 6.5 to get it worked on if you don't have the ability or expertise? I doubt many GM dealers will touch it and I don't know if any of the private shops will either.

In the old days once the warranty expired....and you had a 6.2 or 6.5... it became your problem.

GM has a number of half-baked solutions in the past....some were known to be lemons on the MFG floor and left up to the dealers to solve and for the customers to be teh R&D test pool.
 
I doubt many GM dealers will touch it and I don't know if any of the private shops will either.

In the old days once the warranty expired....and you had a 6.2 or 6.5... it became your problem.

Both mechanics I have dealt with regarding my truck have no issues with the 6.5. They've replaced the hydroboost unit and the mechanical injector pump, which is a grand PITA to deal with, being underneath the intake manifold.
 

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