Check valve on fuel line of 2f (1 Viewer)

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Hi, Awhile back I had Jim redo my carb. The cruiser runs pretty good but is extremely hard to start the next day. Like 20-30 foot pedal pushes. I’m assuming the gas is draining back down the fuel line since I see no carb leaks. Has anyone put a one way check valve on their fuel line to prevent fuel from draining back down. If I used ethonol I might believe the gas was evaporating off but I use ethonol free.
 
Hi, Awhile back I had Jim redo my carb. The cruiser runs pretty good but is extremely hard to start the next day. Like 20-30 foot pedal pushes. I’m assuming the gas is draining back down the fuel line since I see no carb leaks. Has anyone put a one way check valve on their fuel line to prevent fuel from draining back down. If I used ethonol I might believe the gas was evaporating off but I use ethonol free.



- this is what your ICS / FCS Fuel Cut Solenoid controls Michal


- is your SITE glass on your float bowl still full to the level line DOT , or has the BOWL run low / empty , ?

- based on this fundamental observation confirm and verify step by step outlined in your TAN 2F ENGIN FSM ....


- preform the inspection procedures on both site glass and ICS / FCS and report back your diagnosis and or findings




matt

 
Have you checked the pressure from the pump? Might be getting enough to run — but just. Some fuel always seems to seep from the bowl overnight, but the stout OEM pump will refill it quickly when starting. Also check the easy stuff too — bad filter, clogged lines, pickup tube. Look inside your tank via the sending unit. And be sure your fuel lines were reconnected correctly with the pump drawing from the filtered line.
 
I never had this problem with my Chevy quadrajet with its check valve in it.
 
FWIW - similar scenario here...it takes many more than the normal 4 pumps often times to start it after sitting for a day or two

watching closely.
 
In my 66 ford 100 I had to hold the gas pedal to the floor upon startup. Pumping wasn’t always enough.
 
If the float bowl drains just turn the key and let the engine go 6-8 revolutions. This gets some gas in the bowl and takes about 3 seconds. Then pump 2-4 times on the gas pedal and start 'er up.
 
I have a similar problem. If I drive the truck every day or two, it usually starts right up. But if it goes a week or longer (which is most typical for my usage). I have to pump and crank and pump and crank. I always attributed it to fuel leaving the bowl and I must have checked at some point the sight glass and couldn't see fuel. However it does seem to take a long time to get enough fuel back into the bowl to allow the accelerator pump to work. But eventually it does work...I don't have fuel leaking outside the carburetor so it must be draining into the intake manifold, then evaporating, or evaporating into the charcoal canister.
 
Let it sit overnight or what-ever, then before trying to start it, check the sight glass and remove the air cleaner cover and manipulate the accelerator linkage to see if any fuel is spraying into the carburetor. This should give you some indication what your fuel situation is. If no fuel sprays out, it doesn't make much sense to keep pressing the pedal. You probably need to crank the engine to fill the bowl before the accelerator pump can do it's job.
 
check valve won't help if the gas is draining out of the carb internally
 
Had a weird thought, could old fuel lines be eroding and leaving solid gunk somewhere but floats around when enough fuel? Creating odd starting and idling behavior?
 
I don’t know but I don’t have this problem with any other carb. boat,tractor etc.
 
Is your carb cooling fan functional?
 
mine is
 

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