Check Engine Light On x Car Shaking (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 20, 2020
Threads
6
Messages
24
Location
LEX KY
The past few weeks i have noticed my 03' LC (245k miles) my car is shaking at stop lights or anytime im idle & i lift my foot off the break. If i put it in drive and take my foot off the break and let it ride it feels like im sitting on the dryer. Also there has been a weird thing with the RPM's going up each time i try to break when on the highway. Not sure if they are related.

Any how, The check engine light just came on. Not sure what to expect as the issue, but before i get this looked at is anyone familiar with this situation?
 
You need to get the codes checked and find out where your issue is first and foremost.

Report back and we can better advise you.
 
Run an OBD2 scanner on it and see what codes it is throwing. It could be a multitude of things. Once you have those codes report back and you can narrow what the issue is.
 
Heres the code I got:

P0303

its saying cylinder 3 is misfiring.

Hoping its a cheaper fix either for coils or spark plug.

Im planning to drop it off tomorrow at some point, anything thoughts before so?
 
First, you may want to pull the number 3 coil and spark plug for an inspection. This is a straightforward job using simple hand tools.

I'd try and source a Denso or OEM replacement coil if it turns out to bad (likely) and if you are not sure of the spark plug history, it probably would hurt to replace them all for good measure.
 
I had the same thing happen. My issue was one of my spark plugs was disintegrating. A new set and I was golden.


Same for me as Lehiguy. And I agree with everyone else, the bad plug/coil is not a big deal to repair. I found a Denso plug and coil at the local auto parts store and replaced both in my garage in about 15 minutes. My truck has about 248K miles so I probably need to go ahead a replace the rest of them. Also, while I was in there, I saw a little bit of engine oil near the seat. I soaked up a little bit of the oil with a rag, but that has me thinking that I should probably do valve cover gaskets too. Good luck.
 
Alright so here we go:

Took it to the shop this morning. Looks like the spark plug "shot out the engine". and they can not do anything so they referred to me the dealership...

He told me a coil would need to be replaced in the bottom of the cylinder because a new spark plug so it can thread into it. And it was a "1 chance" operation or you would have to replace the whole cylinder. Dealer told me that if it cant be fixed it would need a new cylinder for $4k.

Again i would assume the coil you all were talking about is the coil they are talking about.... I would assume that would be an easy fix....

Am i really going to need a new cylinder?
 
Alright so here we go:

Took it to the shop this morning. Looks like the spark plug "shot out the engine". and they can not do anything so they referred to me the dealership...

He told me a coil would need to be replaced in the bottom of the cylinder because a new spark plug so it can thread into it. And it was a "1 chance" operation or you would have to replace the whole cylinder. Dealer told me that if it cant be fixed it would need a new cylinder for $4k.

Again i would assume the coil you all were talking about is the coil they are talking about.... I would assume that would be an easy fix....

Am i really going to need a new cylinder?

I interpret this as the spark plug threads failed and needs to be fixed using a helicoil. If that is the case, you may want reach out to a different mechanic or possibly a machine shop. The dealership is saying you need a new cylinder head and if you go that route, I'd get a few other estimates.

The coil I and others are talking about is the ignition coil that attaches to the spark plug.
 
How should i go about that?

Locate the #3 (search the forum for this) and unplug and unbolt the coil pack and remove it. Then remove the spark plug and try and inspect the spark plug threads in cylinder head and inspect the spark plug itself.

Report back.
 
What condition did they leave you in? Is the LC disassembled, sitting at the shop? Did they put the spark plug in and you drove home? Towed away but not driveable? This info can help us advise you. Helicoil is a common repair, and an independent shop is where I would go if I couldn't do the work myself.
 
BTW, there was a report on here within the last few months of a bad helicoil install where scraps of the head fell into the cylinder head, and it eventually grenaded the engine after some time. I can't remember who it was. If you go that route, choose your shop wisely and ask for proof that they've done an identical job on a 2UZ-FE engine with long-term positive results.

Then again, I'm paranoid of cylinder head modification with the head still installed on the block. It doesn't take much to score a cylinder bore and trash the block.
 
I would do that repair all day. It isn't that hard. Put grease on the tap to catch the aluminum shavings. Use a shop vac with a tube small enough to get into the cylinder via the spark plug hole once it's been tapped to clean out anything you may have missed. We are talking about aluminum here, not steel, so even if you miss a little, it will likely be fine. Install the helicoil (if it's even needed in this case). put a new plug in and drive.
 

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