Check Engine Light On x Car Shaking (1 Viewer)

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What condition did they leave you in? Is the LC disassembled, sitting at the shop? Did they put the spark plug in and you drove home? Towed away but not driveable? This info can help us advise you. Helicoil is a common repair, and an independent shop is where I would go if I couldn't do the work myself.

So I picked up my LC from the initial mechanic I saw friday- I have to drive it monday night to the closest Toyota dealership. As scheduled now. They wont be able to look at it till Tuesday.

So its intact, but the issue has not been resolved. The person I spoke with at Toyota & the mechanic who checked it out friday both told me to drive it over to the Dealership, so I guess short term its okay to drive. Fortunately I will be working remote this week so I wont need to travel.


The mechanic did confirm the thread is off the cylinder/rather than loose. I dont have the tools (I think) or insight to make the distinction independently without very detailed procedures to look at, but I have faith in them. They are sending me to the dealership because they do not have any experienced guys for this procedures, which I appreciate. However, if anyone can assist in finding support in the forum for confirming this, please shoot it my way as im new.

Appreciate the feedback from everyone. Makes me feel like im not alone as I traverse through the struggles with my LC. I dont plan to let this baby go!
 
I do have two questions that would help me get level headed also if someone can answer these:

1. how effective is the heil coil replacement? (i.e. what are the odds I would have to do this again)
2. What would be the situation(s) where a hell coil replacement would not work and you would need to replace the cylinder head all together? << I would like to know so I could have something up my sleeve since im dealing with the $tealership.
 
The helicoil itself is some sort of very hard steel. It fits into the threads made by the tap that will be run down the spark plug hole to cut new threads. The spark plug will then thread into the helicoil. Since the plug will be threading into steel rather than aluminum, it should outlast all the other spark plug holes in your engine. I see this as very low risk of failure. You would be hard pressed to damage it in the future.
 
100% chance the helicoil works but I would install the plug and not disturb it again for as long as possible.

Worst case scenario, they **** up the helicoil job, pull the head and have a machine shop instal a time sert instead. There are other options.
 
I had to helicoil a 22R block once. One of the head bolts broke when I disassembled the engine and the removal of the broken bolt left the threads damaged. I used a helicoil there and was able to get proper torque on the head bolt and never had an issue. That requires about four times the torque a spark does and it's smaller diameter threads. Your plug hole will fix up just fine.
 
Got an update, and it should not come as a surprise, Dealership said they could install a heilcoil or timesert. $500 job.

They also had two other things to share for me.

They mentioned 2 valve covers were leaking fairly bad and that I had the wrong sized tires. When i bought the LC in feb they came with 265-60-18 tires, so when i replaced the back two i followed suit. Unless the tire size has any impact on the current affairs, im going to put at the bottom of the list for priority right now.


Toyota offered to take care of the valve covers for $400.

I am leaning towards going ahead and having Toyota take care of the heilcoil since i don't have the resources for the job, nor the acumen (right now).

However, what about the valve covers? Recommendations? Not sure the priority, but it seems like some are able to do it themselves or i saw few had it handled when they were getting their oil changed.

Appreciate the feedback!
 
Don't sweat the tire size, not a big deal. $500 is probably a decent deal for having a helicoil installed by the dealer. As for the valve covers, sometimes leaks can be fixed by simply re-torquing the valve cover bolts. Just don't get carried away and break one off. Hard to say how necessary it is without seeing pics of how bad the leak is.
 
Heilcoil install was a success, as in they did not need to install a new head and i dont have that error code any more.

Its been 4 days since I picked up my LC, and now, I have a new error code. P0430! I replaced one of my Cat Con Banks earlier this year, cant remember which one off top of my head, but could there be any overlap with this code and my new Heilcoil install &/or Leaky Valve covers?

Trying to determine what to do....

Thanks everyone!
 
P0430 is not directly related to the P0303. This are different bank of the engine P0303 being left side (BK1), P0430 bing right side (BK2)

The fact your #3 spark plug in your 03 w/245K miles, blew out of the head. Tells me you likely have/had the factory installed spark plugs. They likely say "Denso, Made in Japan". Or they where replace first 60K miles, Or where not torqued in when replaced (left loose). To blow at of heads damaging thread, takes many many heating and cooling cycles. 245K miles in and 03, is good indicator of normal number heating cycles.

Spark plugs positions #3, 5, 4 & 6 seem to loosen more than others. But they all do loosen over time.

Your reports of P0303 BK1, Now a P0430 CAT bk2, and head cover gaskets leaks. Speak to PM of your vehicle, or rather lack of! This is typical of many used car.
Some owners feel, it's not worth maintaining and vehicle, as will not get them more $$ when they sell. So they can save $ during ownership. Some feel it's a Land Cruiser and they run forever, with only oil changes. Fact is, it's a machine. Machines must be maintained. The Land Cruiser is one tough vehicles, and highly engineered. They "just keeps on ticking". Maintain it properly (PM, preventive maintenance) and it can last many life times.. Rust and accident notwithstanding.

I'll bet, if dealer only R&R the #3 spark plug, and did nothing else. You've many vacuum leaks which includes PCV hoses, all bad spark plugs most walking out, coils being damaged from excessive heat of combustion gasses blowing by looe spark plugs, dirty throttle body, dirty air & fuel filter. Heater Tees cumbling, etc. etc.

Your CAT may be okay. First thing is to get a full tune up and coolant service. "Bring your engine back to factory spec. I'll bet your wheel bearings, ball joints, stabilizer system, many of the systems suspension bushings and power steering needs some TLC also.

Don't forget to have all fluid flushed and lube those propeller shafts and spiders.

Do not just take to anyone. Find a Land Cruiser specialist in your area. Remember; This is a $50K vehicle in 2003 dollars. With some TLC you can make run feel and handle like new again. With incredible reliability!

Good Luck

PS: If you were in Denver, I have you stop by. You'd be shocked at what I'd find.
 
P0430 is not directly related to the P0303. This are different bank of the engine P0303 being left side (BK1), P0430 bing right side (BK2)

The fact your #3 spark plug in your 03 w/245K miles, blew out of the head. Tells me you likely have/had the factory installed spark plugs. They likely say "Denso, Made in Japan". Or they where replace first 60K miles, Or where not torqued in when replaced (left loose). To blow at of heads damaging thread, takes many many heating and cooling cycles. 245K miles in and 03, is good indicator of normal number heating cycles.

Spark plugs positions #3, 5, 4 & 6 seem to loosen more than others. But they all do loosen over time.

Your reports of P0303 BK1, Now a P0430 CAT bk2, and head cover gaskets leaks. Speak to PM of your vehicle, or rather lack of! This is typical of many used car.
Some owners feel, it's not worth maintaining and vehicle, as will not get them more $$ when they sell. So they can save $ during ownership. Some feel it's a Land Cruiser and they run forever, with only oil changes. Fact is, it's a machine. Machines must be maintained. The Land Cruiser is one tough vehicles, and highly engineered. They "just keeps on ticking". Maintain it properly (PM, preventive maintenance) and it can last many life times.. Rust and accident notwithstanding.

I'll bet, if dealer only R&R the #3 spark plug, and did nothing else. You've many vacuum leaks which includes PCV hoses, all bad spark plugs most walking out, coils being damaged from excessive heat of combustion gasses blowing by looe spark plugs, dirty throttle body, dirty air & fuel filter. Heater Tees cumbling, etc. etc.

Your CAT may be okay. First thing is to get a full tune up and coolant service. "Bring your engine back to factory spec. I'll bet your wheel bearings, ball joints, stabilizer system, many of the systems suspension bushings and power steering needs some TLC also.

Don't forget to have all fluid flushed and lube those propeller shafts and spiders.

Do not just take to anyone. Find a Land Cruiser specialist in your area. Remember; This is a $50K vehicle in 2003 dollars. With some TLC you can make run feel and handle like new again. With incredible reliability!

Good Luck

PS: If you were in Denver, I have you stop by. You'd be shocked at what I'd find.


This makes a lot of sense to me.

I whiffed on looking into this initially because the carfax was checking out for what I researched on what to look for when buying a LC. But What a learning experience its been since then. So far I have had my front AC quit blowing cold (replaced compressor & condensor), got a new Cat Con, my Blower quit working and much more. Wish i would have found Mud a little earlier in the game...

Building of what you shared, can you confirm I am following? See below. Just want to make sure i get the big picture down so i have a road map when im looking around.

1. Find a Land Cruiser specialist and have them do a full tune up & coolant service, get the engine to factory spec << (Can you give me an idea on what all this should or would include)
2. Tune up for wheel bearings, ball joints, stabilizer system, many of the systems suspension bushings and power steering
3. Request Fluids flushed and lube up propeller shafts..
4. They probably could throw in fixing my valve cover gaskets why they are at it since I assume they are going to be working in the area....

Best Case Scenario, this takes care of the Cat Con, WCS it does not. I think in both scenarios this will improve my confidence & prevent future issues. Seems like a solid idea, just need to get a ballpark $$.


I will point out that I do know these vehicles are reliable given my experiences, which have conflicted with what i researched initially... but to your point they are a machine... You have to maintain them properly. I look frequently online at similar 100s and see many LC's & 470s going for alot of $$ that have over 350K miles on them.

Gives me faith, just not in a position to break the bank!
 
"Cat Con" ?

Look at my signture box below. Read through "Emerald" It was a field find no start ~360K miles. Look in my master link (in signture) for restore project and work done on others local rigs. You'll be and expert when your done.
 
@2001LC Cat Con = Catalytic converter

Tonka: if I'm following correct you pretty much want to do a full baseline on your vehicle. If you're handy, great. If you're not, reading the FAQ and learning will save you a lot of money.

1. for an engine tune up, spark plugs (+ valve cover gaskets while you're there, since they're leaking, if tightening doesn't fix), air filter (EZ 1 banana job), flush coolant and put in toyota red (not generic green coolant). Change serp belt if the old one looks bad. Flush PS fluid (likely never been done; this is in the FAQ I think or PM me and I'll find it for you to DIY). Fuel filter wouldn't hurt also. (As the list grows, my statement above rings true: cheaper to do your own work). Probably missing some things, others can chime in or flip through the FAQ.
2. Biggest thing will be to replace or repack wheel bearings if not sure last time they've been done. Failure here can leave you stranded with no wheel. Pwr Steering covered above. Bushings and ball joints are as needed. Look at sway bar bushings and end links, tie rod bushings, and ball joints. If bad, replace.
3. Most fluids covered in 1. Not sure if you've done TB and WP but if needed, do that. Other fluids are F/R differentials, transfer case, and transmission. Diffs and Tcase are easy to DIY, and are in FAQ. Trans is a bit more involved depending on year but searching should yield results. Ujoints and slip joints on driveshaft are easy to grease. Lithium for slip, WB grease for ujoints. Needed every 5k mi or so.
4. Addressed in 1.

Tried not to restate much of what you said but wanted to give a comprehensive list. As you can tell, there is a lot involved with baselining a vehicle, although I realize that isn't the purpose of this thread. My advice is find any service history for your vehicle (whether by entering vin on toyota website or checking in glove box for any documentation) and cross off what's been done.

Best of luck, sorry this is so long winded!

Edit: regarding P0430, there are lots of threads on that, one written by 2001LC. Don't jump to replace cat as that's expensive and doesn't always fix. Read through threads and try cheapest things first. Or, put spacers on o2 sensors worked for me.
 
Lol as I was driving my vehicle to a trusted Toyota shop in town this morning, I noticed my Check engine light was not on. I dont know if a 45 degree morning stopped it from coming on or what, but we will find out.
 

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