Cheap horsepower for my 100

[DMG1]

With the addition of larger tires, bumpers and all the junk we take with us, my 100 is feeling Al title sluggish in the steep PA mountains. Are there any cheap hp tricks I can do to get it up the hills with less effort?
Let's assume that it is in good tune, the air and fuel filters are ok, and that I am not ready to spend the time and money for headers or supercharger, yet. What do you suggest?

 

[bwell]

A free flowing performance turbo style muffler, not a chambered flow master style. I actually had this done yesterday on mine, and as with vehicles like this in the past I personally feel it does even make a moderate improvement of drivability across the range and you lose 20 lbs of anchor weight from the stock muffler.
For cost savings I had them keep the stock resonator instead of bending a whole new tail pipe, as these are essentially straight through anyway.
Vehicles like these there is no magic horsepower fix for cheap, and anyone who markets such is full of you know what.

 

[ponytl]

there just isn't a lot you can do... you can make more power only a few ways... you can make it breath better inhale, exhale or both... can you modify your air box to get a smother cooler airflow into the engine? maybe? the only reason the factory would compromise in this area is for noise control and reliability (they could ram air in or suck from a low pressure zone but that might also introduce elements into the intake you don't want (water)... the air you suck in has to be blown out (exhaust) these have a pretty nice exhaust for a stock system and I'm sure they are pretty well matched to the intake... but well designed headers/exhaust just about always improve performance and exhaust are usually the first limiting factor in choking down an engine... (i've spent hundreds of hours on a flow bench) I doubt you could improve the heads / valve arrangement on these engines much and surely could not do it cheaply... Cams are the heart / key to ever producing power in an engine and every cam is a compromise hp/torque and where in the rpm band that power is made, and again its not cheap power cams, valve springs, retainers, labor...

this is a small displacement V8 it has a huge amount of drag/friction built in (this is why they don't make small V8's)

about the only thing you can do is find ways to shed some pounds... and you might be able to install an exhaust cut out for off road use that might result in a small power gain... anything that claims 5% to 20% more power and takes minutes to install is snake oil...

p

 

[ton504]

Gearing.

 

[bozncsurf]

Gearing.

What he said ^

 

[DMG1]

Gearing.

I have thought about gearing but 4.56s are a small change from 4.30s and 4.88s seem too deep for a truck on 285s. I may try a muffler and or headers. I have jba headers into a 3/inch exhaust on my tundra with the same motor and it was an improvement but is a little too loud. Hmm.

I have a Chevy 6.0 sitting in the shop. That would fix this problem but be the most expensive way to do it.

 

[spressomon]

Within the 100-Series the best bet for normally aspirated rigs is the '06-'07 model years. The rest of us, especially those of us anchored in the A343F world, are best served by reducing mass and tire radius if better pedal response to pavement is the primary (or even secondary ) goal. And arguably reducing vehicle mass is the least expensive approach that also pays big dividends in the all things suspension, steering and drivetrain sectors relative to reliability and performance perimeters.

But so far I haven't been able to apply any significant mass reducing strategies that do not leave me wanting on our explores . Having said all that the early conversion to 4.88's and 35" was the single biggest payback to better power and torque management...for my "big rig" . Sometimes I do wonder what 5.29's would be like...especially in the mountains. But patience pays far bigger dividends so I keep practicing on being content in the slower lanes on the big passes .

 

[RS6tofj80]

Headers aren't cheap nor an easy install but they and a catback are probably all that's going to gain you much extra power short of a Charger.....the combo added nicely to throttle response and lower end torque on my rig.... the cold air intakes might offer something and certainly add some growl ( my v8 4runner was almost too loud).... but beware of over-oiling the filter.

Gears might net the same cost as the cat/headers.....but if the truck a long term hold it could be a good investment...

E

 

[Nottajeep]

With the addition of larger tires, bumpers and all the junk we take with us, my 100 is feeling Al title sluggish in the steep PA mountains. Are there any cheap hp tricks I can do to get it up the hills with less effort?
Let's assume that it is in good tune, the air and fuel filters are ok, and that I am not ready to spend the time and money for headers or supercharger, yet. What do you suggest?

Turn the A/C off

 

[staggrlee]

"Steep PA mountains" Try +7000' in the Sierras/Rockies with a fully loaded MY '00 rig.

Things like headers/free flowing exhaust may improve hp/torque curves at the higher speeds but are going to do little overall and even less for low end torque. Maybe an average +10 ft-lbs across the range?

Reducing weight (especially unsprung weight with lighter rims/tires), regearing for larger diameter tires as already mentioned are more effective. Most people have gone to the headers primarily because their OE one(s) cracked, and then, why not?

Take a look at RobRed's dyno with DT headers:

 

[spressomon]

Ok...can't resist: ^ "Why not (Doug Thorley headers) you ask ?

Because they are NOT legal in CARB states...including California

If not for the cracking OEM manifolds , as you stated as the primary reason for headers on our 2UZ-FE engines, I wouldn't know what a great stand up company Doug Thorley is all about. Not.

Ok...back to topic

 

[DMG1]

The DT headers do look promising.

Believe it or not, I have driven this cruiser through the cascades, sierras and Rockies. There are much steeper stretches of RT 40 here in PA that I drive frequently.

"Steep PA mountains" Try +7000' in the Sierras/Rockies with a fully loaded MY '00 rig.

Things like headers/free flowing exhaust may improve hp/torque curves at the higher speeds but are going to do little overall and even less for low end torque. Maybe an average +10 ft-lbs across the range?

Reducing weight (especially unsprung weight with lighter rims/tires), regearing for larger diameter tires as already mentioned are more effective. Most people have gone to the headers primarily because their OE one(s) cracked, and then, why not?

Take a look at RobRed's dyno with DT headers:

 

[re_guderian]

Do you use the PWR button on the trans to keep it from upshifting too soon with the bigger tires? Lets the RPM's go higher before shifting. Turn off the A.C. and run premium gas.



If that's not enough, try driving an FJ60.

 

[marshotel]

With the addition of larger tires, bumpers and all the junk we take with us, my 100 is feeling Al title sluggish in the steep PA mountains. Are there any cheap hp tricks I can do to get it up the hills with less effort?
What do you suggest?

You could get smaller tires and lose the heavy bumpers....

The truck would go up hills faster and perform better on most roads.

 

[bucfl]

Use JP7 as fuel. lol

Compared to the old armada this is quicker i think. But i have a lite foot and dont try to be the first off the line.

 

[staggrlee]

The DT headers do look promising.

There are much steeper stretches of RT 40 here in PA that I drive frequently.

Gotcha, I was more referring to the altitude effect on NA engines. I don't live in CO, but if I did, I would have jumped on the SC that was in the classifieds recently. That, and if I had the money to pay what it sold for new -- 15 years ago.

 

[Kofoed]

Use the o/d lockout button