Cheap Break Pads, NOW

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Joined
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North Front Range, CO
My front pads are gone and need to be replaced NOW, no time to wait any longer.
The rotors are a bit warped but now that I am unemployed and homeless (living in hotels in Colorado, Grand Junction/Denver) i have no place work on the vehicle or $$$ to spend on a break job at shop.

My question is, do I just buy the cheap pads from Napa, Auto Zone, Checker etc ($29) and run them till I can do a full break job?
Is there any breaking reduction when using the cheap pads?
 
Sounds like you may not have a choice. I am sure NAPA, etc pads would last until you could do a full brake job. Hopefully your rotors aren't too bad.
 
they will get you by just fine till your in a better position . Ive only replaced pads (wagner thermo-quiet brake pads) on my 80 , never cut the rotors since Ive owned it 50K miles so far as they were just a little out of round and haven't gotten worse . One day I'll do them right :doh: Plus with your home status the fronts are easy to do with simple hand tools and a jack and some wood . no bleeding and can do one side at a time
 
Kant remember, do you need to pull the hub to pull the rotor?

Will be replacing them in the Super8 parking lot in Fruita, CO. At least till the manager kicks me out. Will be using the cheapo pads.
 
You don't have to pull anything if you're just replacing the front pads. Just remove the wheel, then remove the thin wire spring thingy that goes between the two cross pins, pull out the cross-pins with a pair of pliers, then the flat anti-rattle spring thingy at the back of the caliper will fall off, yank the old pads out and shove the new ones in, then put the pins and spring thingy's back in. IIRC that's about it. Oh yeah, park your rig in the back and only do one side at time with the side you're working on facing away from the building. HTH.
DSC01016.webp
 
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I remember how to do the pads but forgot if you can pull the rotor without pulling off the hub.
 
The hub and rotor come off as a unit after first removing the drive flange (not shown in the photo), then removing the spindle nuts. Then you would have to separate the hub from the rotor by removing six bolts; here's a photo to jog your memory.
DSC00849.webp
 
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Never had any issue with NAPA rotors or pads. Got their rotors on the back of the 80.

They are definitely who I would go with for... anything that I needed that I didn't have the time or money to go OEM.

The pads should not have any noticeable effect on stopping distance, unless perhaps you heat the hell out of them or put them through some extreme conditions. They will probably have a shorter lifespan.
 
I got the cheapest pads at autozone when I was in a bind. They worked but were horrible. Glazed over after a few hard stops.

Napa ones will probably yield better results.
 
Since you have a '94 go ahead and use FJ100 front pads when you can, they fit a bit snug, but they have much more pad and they should drop right in.

I took my anti-squeal shims off and they fit perfect.

Remember to turn your rotors before using these pads.

Part# 04465-60151
 
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In my experience brake pads are one of the few items you can run non-oem and be fine, so long as you don't go super cheap. We have higher end NAPA pads on the front of our 80 with zero issues. Perhap next pad change I'll try the 100 series pads. Anyway, you'll be fine...
 
ive got napa pads they work great been on for almost a year
 
Pulled the pads and the rivet that holds the wear indicator was rubbing/grinding into the rotor. Luckily it did not hurt the rotor to bad and I put in the $24 Napa pads.
They so far break fine. Should work till I can get rotors turned or replaced.

Thanks Walmart for letting me use your parking lot to replace my breaks:D
 
I use Hi-Tech made in Canada, $18.00, last me about two years before the rotor got warped. Those I get them from the mom and pop auto parts around.
 
Don't worry about having them turned to remove a groove like that. The pads will simply adopt that shape as they wear. I've done this on many a vehicle for friends and the like. Also, the front rotor removal means you're into the wheel bearings as well, so full cleanout, repack, new seals, then bearing adjustment. If they're not bad, just drive it. These are trucks and its times like these that a LandCruiser will stay in service for you with a little neglect - another reason to drive one.

DougM
 

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