changing rear shocks, have a question???

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I have a 2004 LC all suspension is bone stock. Question is, do you have to take the weight off the rear end in order to replace the shocks? Can I just back my vehicle up on my ramps and do it that way, plenty of room to work under there just not sure if it is possible. It is just a straight up OEM replacement.

My jack stands got stolen so right now all I have is my ramps.
 
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Yes and no. You have to compress the strut to get it to align with the mounting point on the axle. If you can do that without extending the rear suspension then yes. OE replacements may have a low enough charge that you can do this, but not so with aftermarket. The best method is to get the rear up with the frame on stands and then use your floor jack under the respective side of the rear axle to finely control height as you line up the holes.
 
^ This. You'll need to move the rear axle independent of the frame to get the new shocks on. Oregon may be right, but I wouldn't want to be compressing the new strut by hand and hoping to start the lower bolt. Much easier and safer to line it up with the jack.
 
OEM is absolutely no problem to install that way, just did it last weekend. You're on the ground, pull down on the shock to compress, stick it in the top mount and slip it on the bottom as it extends, you've got about five seconds, if you miss it the first time you'll get it the second go around. ;)


But........to remove the shock it will help to have the axle droop, but not necessary. Not sure where you are, but in the rust belt there is zero chance that the nut on a stud style shock mount can be removed with a wrench. It would have helped to have the room to get the sawzall in.........wasn't quite ready to break out the flame wrench on the 100. :hillbilly:
 
Sawzall is the ticket for well rusted rear shocks. There's plenty of room to get a good angle for the cut on both sides. Cut tight through the bush, keep clear of the washer, and spray lots of water on the blade unless you enjoy burned rubber smoke.
 
Thanks Cruiser_Nerd, I am not in the rust belt, I am in Austin, TX. and the Cruiser has been here it's whole life so hoping rear shock nut won't be to difficult.

So you are saying I can do the OEM rear shock replacement with the tires on ground?
 
Not sure about that, my axle was on jack stands with the tires removed. Think you will need the wiggle room with the ramps. Maybe drive forward on them so you have the clear ground in front of the axle since that's where you'll be working.
 
My local Toyota specialist shop charged me only $80 labor to replace my shocks (I provided parts). Money well spent IMO.
 
The rear shocks can be done without lifting or dropping the axle in relation to the body, with OEM suspension. Easy install (wicked bad removal of old ones).
 
It is decided I am just gonna drive either the front of back up on my ramps (pending on which end gives me the best access) and give it a go.

Does any one local in Austin have a 22mm flex head ratcheting gear wrench they can let me borrow? will save me $30-40 rather than buy a tool I am only gonna use once ever 10 years.
 
Does any one local in Austin have a 22mm flex head ratcheting gear wrench they can let me borrow? will save me $30-40 rather than buy a tool I am only gonna use once ever 10 years.

FYI, it's not so easy to find the 22mm flexhead gear wrench on the shelf (ask me how I know), but I think a 7/8" will work for you and easier to find, maybe even at a Lowe's. It's only off by 9/1000ths of an inch.

And by the way, that is THE tool to make life easy. I had my shocks off in 5 minutes. Also, having a truck from Texas (dry country) is the biggest trick.
 
Super90, did you use a 7/8's or a 22mm? Has anyone used a 7/8's with success?

I am afraid of all the stories of how tight those top nuts are I would hate to put a bunch of force on them and have one of both strip out, then the job becomes even more of a PIA.
 
I ordered the 22mm flex head gear wrench off the home depot site today, $33 free shipping to the store so will pick it up next week and hopefully it will get out of the 30's in Austin by then and I will get those rear shocks changed out.

Anyone that needs to borrow the 22mm wrench after me please let me know would be happy to ship it to anyone as long as they will return it.
 
Rear shock question.

SQOTD - Do you remove the rear wheels or not? I am removing OEM and replacing with OEM.

Or do I lay under the truck and get it done.

I can back up on ramps for more room.
 
Rear shock question.

SQOTD - Do you remove the rear wheels or not? I am removing OEM and replacing with OEM.

Or do I lay under the truck and get it done.

I can back up on ramps for more room.
Either way works. Wheel off gives you more room to work in my opinion.
 
Thank you. I may do as suggested above and drive on to the ramps and leave the working room in front of the axle. If that does not work, I can always go the wheel removal route.
 
Thank you. I may do as suggested above and drive on to the ramps and leave the working room in front of the axle. If that does not work, I can always go the wheel removal route.
For rears, I did ramps on the rear tires, with spare removed and it allowed me to sit upright in the back to get at the top bolts. No idea why so many prefer to drill holes in the body to get access :meh:
 
@uzj100 Keep wheels on, remove spare tire, back onto ramps, let the fun begin.

Also, when you have both shocks off give a good push on the rear bumper and watch your truck bounce up and down undamped like a pogo stick. Take video. Post it here.
 
Rear shocks are already so worn out that the truck bounces up and down.
 
Guys. Thanks for all the help. Pulled on the ramps and 2 hours end to end. The challenge was the pad lock and chain on the spare. Once removed, it is patient to get through all the wrench spinning. The truck is transformed. Thank you again.
 

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