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CHANGING RADIATOR WORRIES

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by mattcobb, Nov 7, 2003.

  1. mattcobb

    mattcobb

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    My radiator is DOA as of yesterday. I ordered a new 4 row radiator from JT Outfitters. I alraedy have all 4 new hoses / clamps to install. When I do this - Do I need to flush? If so what is the process? Is there anything else I should replace while I am in there? (already have thermostat / gasket on the way) Thanks again
     
  2. TJDIV

    TJDIV Back in The U.P.

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    You shouldn't need to flush. I personally would R & R; fill it up, watch your temp for a few and be done with it. Hoses and clamps, etc.....

    Easy job.
     
  3. Klunky Chris

    Klunky Chris

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    just make sure you check to make sure the radiator drain plug is installed! ::)
    I know the 4 core CCoT rad I got didn't. It had metalic tape over the hole and was painted black with the radiator.
    I *thought* it was a plug... :whoops:
    when it got to temp I had coolant flying out and spraying everywhere from the fan!!!! :slap:

    PITA!

    you *could* run a hose down the top inlet and wash anything loose out. Remember that there is a separate drain for the block also.
    I had my 80 flushed by my trusted Toyota mechanic. He used a machine, and slightly caustic solution first to get all the crap out. (someone mixed green collant with the Toyota red :mad: )
    He said it took a lot of flushing until he was getting clear H2O. Then he put new coolant in.

    HTH.
     
  4. 3_puppies

    3_puppies SILVER Star

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    I'd change the heater hoses also and the oil cooler lines if you have them, might not hurt to do the thermostat while everything is drained
     
  5. Landpimp

    Landpimp

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    I would flush it before you put the new rad in, get some flush stuff(stuff I used last time worked great, it was a powder from Prestone I think, worked better than the liquid stuff, took ALOT of flushing to get the crap out of the 45 wagon 350 and rad)

    if you flush and fill, flush and fill, ect ect like the directions tell you it will take all day and crap and nasty colored chit will still be coming out.

    Heres what I have been doing, after the 1st flush(noramaly you run the motor with the flushing stuff for a hour or drive for a while, do whatever it says on the can) Let it cool down.

    Drain from rad and block.

    Leave drains open. then stuff a hose in the top of the rad(Ihave the flexible rubber nozel that works great, it only runs when bent) let it run keeping the water just level with the top of the rad(so it doesn't run out and doesn't spash everwhere) and untill water comes out the block drain. Then start the motor and let it idel. let it run like this untill the water runs clear(making sure you don;t run out of water), at some point close the rad drain but leave the block drain open. Use a pan(s) so you can see the crap that comes out.

    Works pretty darn well, I can leave a rig run like this while doing other stuff, if the pans overflow it;s just water(by this point) coming out anyway.

    Better to do it before the new rad is in if possible I would think.

    John H
     
  6. Degnol

    Degnol

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    The only thing I would add is to disconnect your heater core from the cooling system BEFORE you put the flush to the system. The heater core will catch and trap all the crap that you dislodge from everywhere else.
    I think the LC radiator is a good, hell-for-stout radiator, but most of the ones having coolong trouble are just full of sediment and crap. I'm pulling mine this winter and having it boiled out.
    GL
    Keep us posted.
    Ed Long :)
     
  7. roscoFJ73

    roscoFJ73

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    Definately flush the motor before the new rad goes in otherwise the crap in the block will end up in your new radiator.
     
  8. Slowerthanu

    Slowerthanu SILVER Star

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    I made the mistake of not dissconnecting the core and now it is clogged.