Changing drive belts write-up ??? (1 Viewer)

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It takes all of two minutes to get the skid plate off - four 12MM bolts. Do yourself a favor and get it out of the way. Goes back on in under one minute. Use a 12" extension to get to bolts easy.

As mentioned before the AC belt idler pulley bolt is the locking bolt for the tensioning bolt on the AC belt. Very easy to get to with skid plate out of the way from under the truck. The tensioner bolt location and function obvious. AC belt comes off first - goes on last.

Alternator - water pump belts. Use six point 13MM socket for tension lock bolt. Get at it from under the truck - with the skid plate out of the way - where you can see it and reach it easily. Use a 15MM socket with 3" extension to loosen alternator pivot bolt from the top of engine compartment. Seems like nobody else does this - how do they get the alternator to pivot freely? Loosen both slightly to adjust tensioner for belt removal and installation.

FYI - I replaced my alternator tension lock bolt with a nice square shouldered 13MM bolt as the factory nut will and does round off easily.

Access 12 MM alternator tensioning nut by removing front drivers side wheel well curtain and use 18" extension to loosen completely to get old belts off very easy. You can see it from the wheel well - it's a straight shot once the curtain is off.

Once belts are on - tighten tensioning bolt by hand with extension and 12MM socket. DO NOT overthighten belts. Do not use air wrench. Belts are rule of thumb correct when you can move 1/4 to 1/2 inch applying thumb pressure. Retighten pivot and tensioner lock bolts on alternator.

Replace AC belt, tension and lock. Reinstall that skid plate that's so hard to get off. Run engine for 20 minutes and recheck tension. If loose - adjust accordingly. Good luck.

PS - don't take your battery and battery box out to do this. The removal of the wheel well curtain is the secret of this job. I can do it in 20 minutes flat.
 
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Riley said:
...Rich mentions using a 6 point "long" 12mm socket. I assume that's a 6 point deep socket (must be california speak).

Should I bother to buy / use a Torx toolset or just use the bolts?
Yes, six sided deep socket. Note: Use a regular socket, not an impact socket. The thinner wall of the regular socket minimizes how much you have to lever the belts out of the way. The 12 mm socket I use is 2.5 inches long.

I haven't tried using a torx driver so I can not offer a comparison on the ease of use. Using the socket I mention is relatively easy. Using a standard 12 sided short socket is relatively impossible, due to the interference of the belts.
 
Skip the Torx - the major trick here - other than the removal of wheel well curtain is to loosen the alternator tensioning nut from under the truck where you can see and get to it easy. If the belts are in the way and you cant' get a socket on it, use a closed end 13MM ratcheting wrench to loosen and tighten. Slip it under the belts and they will hold it on nicely while you ratchet away.

Spit on it if it's hard to get it under the belts - LOL. Spit on the belts too if they're tight to get them on the pulleys. Spit was the allmighty's gift to man for may reasons. ROTFLMHO
 
What Riley and I are discussing above is the bolt that locks alternator adjusting bolt - not the bolt that is turned to adjust the belt tension. It is the lock bolt that is blocked by the belts. It is easily reached accessed from above, as long as you can lever the belts out of the way with the socket.
 
Just wanted to update a page number (as referanced by Doug). The Alt. belt section is not in the engine section that I could find (in my 97 FSM that is). I found the info on removing the belts in the Charging section on page CH-6. The section to remove the AC belt is on page AC-20. Again, these page numbers are for the 97 FSM.
 
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Give these bolts a dose of PB Blaster the night before - this being a 1.0 :banana: job, the shop where they swapped them last time probably assigned the job to their entry level/rookie tech and they love torque. I have seen this many times in different cars those bolts can be hard to crack.

Yet another good reason to do the job yourself.
 
I need to do belts and hoses. Did everyone go the OEM and cdan route?

on a side note, what does the pink flamingo smilie represent? :flamingo:
 
bolt size?

Alternator - water pump belts. Use six point 13MM socket for tension lock bolt. Get at it from under the truck - with the skid plate out of the way - where you can see it and reach it easily. Use a 15MM socket with 3" extension to loosen alternator pivot bolt from the top of engine compartment. Seems like nobody else does this - how do they get the alternator to pivot freely? Loosen both slightly to adjust tensioner for belt removal and installation.


Spartan;
I noticed the odd bolt sizes; are they correct?
 
Like Mangler said, remove battery tray. Way easier IMO.
Cheers,
Sean
 
With a set of these in addition to the normal assortment of sockets...

68221.jpg


I can do belts from the top without removing anything in 15 minutes.

P.S. Go get yourself the correct bit for the alternator lock bolt if you don't already have it. That's the whole reason that they put it there... with the Torx you can do it after a few maintanance beers with your eyes closed without rounding anything off. :cheers:
 
ElJefe said:
With a set of these in addition to the normal assortment of sockets...

68221.jpg


I can do belts from the top without removing anything in 15 minutes.

P.S. Go get yourself the correct bit for the alternator lock bolt if you don't already have it. That's the whole reason that they put it there... with the Torx you can do it after a few maintanance beers with your eyes closed without rounding anything off. :cheers:
Just to follow up on the gear wrenchs -- I totally agree with ElJefe. When you get them, make sure you get ones -- even if you have to pay extra ;) -- with the smallest degree swing to engage. 5% minimum...less than that if you can find it.
 
ALL,

These (5 pieces) Craftsman set are ON-SALE at Sears this coming weekend - 50% OFF!!! Normal price is $40

Just FYI,
Frank.
 
Rachet type wrenches are the bomb! I wonder why the style wrench above is so much cheaper than the type with an open end on one side and the ratchet end on the other.

Once you go rachet wrench, you'll never go back to the regulars.

:beer:
Rookie2
 

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