Changing differential fluid question
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That pig looks like the best solution maybe a little large for a shade tree like me
my neighbor made something similar but smaller out of pvc pipe caps and a few valves
you remove the cap fill it with 90wt (only holds 1qt) put the cap back on and hook up an air hose (regulated to about 30psi) open a valve in the bottom and the air pushes the gear oil out and down a hose, you have to be quick on the valve when it empties or it makes a 90 wt cloud when the air starts rushing out
my neighbor made something similar but smaller out of pvc pipe caps and a few valves
you remove the cap fill it with 90wt (only holds 1qt) put the cap back on and hook up an air hose (regulated to about 30psi) open a valve in the bottom and the air pushes the gear oil out and down a hose, you have to be quick on the valve when it empties or it makes a 90 wt cloud when the air starts rushing out
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Nice thing about it is that you can buy gear lube in 5 gallon bucket. It saves you a lot of money.
$50 industrial 5 gal Napa hand pump. $22 5 gal bucket of Coastal 80/90w
I can change all 4 gearboxes in a matter of minutes. Something like 7-8 strokes and a diff is full. Hard to beat.
I never fooled with one of those little one gal $5 pumps, eventually had to use one at a friends shop, took 45 min to fill a t-case.
I can change all 4 gearboxes in a matter of minutes. Something like 7-8 strokes and a diff is full. Hard to beat.
I never fooled with one of those little one gal $5 pumps, eventually had to use one at a friends shop, took 45 min to fill a t-case.
For the past week, can't find a 24mm socket in 6 pts..I've been to 2 Sears, 3 Advance Autos, 2 Home Depots, 2 Lowes.. All they have are 12 pt 24mm..Just afraid that it might not grip and strip the bolt...PO lived in NJ and the bolts are rusted...maybe i'll just wait to take my Auto class at the local college and work on the LC then....
Look for impact sockets - they are normally 6 point.
Or buy a 6 point box end wrench and toss it in the truck so you'll always have a way to open the drain/fill plugs no matter where you are. If you have serious trouble getting it loose, put the truck's bottle jack under the wrench and lift.
DougM
DougM
Or just use one of these...
Cheers, R -
Cheers, R -
wile we are talking about diff fluid;
how much 90wt does each of the diffs and the transfer case take? I need to change all the greases and fluids in the new cruiser, starting with the 90wt stuff as they are fairly quick
I paln to do a few quick changes with mineral and then when they are nice and clean I'll be switching to M1, if they take a good bit Ill just get a 5 gal pail
how much 90wt does each of the diffs and the transfer case take? I need to change all the greases and fluids in the new cruiser, starting with the 90wt stuff as they are fairly quick
I paln to do a few quick changes with mineral and then when they are nice and clean I'll be switching to M1, if they take a good bit Ill just get a 5 gal pail
Rav -
Front diff = 2.8 qts (use 90w, or 80-90w in colder climates)
Rear diff = 3.4 qts (use 90w, or 80-90w in colder climates)
Xfr case = 1.8 qts (use 75-90w)
(Front diff holds slightly more in axles wo/lockers...)
R -
Front diff = 2.8 qts (use 90w, or 80-90w in colder climates)
Rear diff = 3.4 qts (use 90w, or 80-90w in colder climates)
Xfr case = 1.8 qts (use 75-90w)
(Front diff holds slightly more in axles wo/lockers...)
R -
Thank you 
so 2 gallons to do them all. I'll get 2 complete changes out of a 5 gal pail with enough left over to spill/maybe do the front 3 times
so 2 gallons to do them all. I'll get 2 complete changes out of a 5 gal pail with enough left over to spill/maybe do the front 3 times
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Not to hijack, but has anyone put 80w-90 in the transfer? My other cruisers use plain 80w-90 in the t-case,why does the 80 specify 75w-90? Just for reference, I have no intention to deviate from spec, I'm just curious and thinking about what I might have available offroad.
maybe the VC has some viscosity needs? (just guessing here)
[quote author=Cruiserdrew link=board=2;threadid=11288;start=msg104778#msg104778 date=1076740978]
Not to hijack, but has anyone put 80w-90 in the transfer? My other cruisers use plain 80w-90 in the t-case,why does the 80 specify 75w-90? Just for reference, I have no intention to deviate from spec, I'm just curious and thinking about what I might have available offroad.
[/quote]
err did some looking the VC apears to be a sealed unit with its own fluid, so that is not a concern, been looking at my choices it would be very convieninet to use the same fluid in both the diffs and transfer case
have my eye on some Chevron Delo 80w-90 for use for a wile and then switch over to synthetic later, the delo can be had in 5 gallon containers
I would assume I can get away with the slightly thicker than spec here in GA? (rarely gets below 20*f)
Not to hijack, but has anyone put 80w-90 in the transfer? My other cruisers use plain 80w-90 in the t-case,why does the 80 specify 75w-90? Just for reference, I have no intention to deviate from spec, I'm just curious and thinking about what I might have available offroad.
[/quote]
err did some looking the VC apears to be a sealed unit with its own fluid, so that is not a concern, been looking at my choices it would be very convieninet to use the same fluid in both the diffs and transfer case
have my eye on some Chevron Delo 80w-90 for use for a wile and then switch over to synthetic later, the delo can be had in 5 gallon containers
I would assume I can get away with the slightly thicker than spec here in GA? (rarely gets below 20*f)
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Raventai-I use the Chevron Delo Gear 80w-90 in all 3 of my rigs-very excellent stuff. I have deceided not to change back to Mobil 1. The Delo Gear qualifies for the Rockwell double warranty spec and I think is the only conventional gear lube that does so. It is a group 2+ oil so very good stuff, but not synthetic in the strictest sense. It uses a boron based chemistry and so doesn't stink as bad as regular gear oil which uses sulfer. In 5 gal containers it costs $3 per quart-much better than Mobil 1 at $8. My 40 in particular seems to end up frequently in water and so I don't feel bad draining out $40 in gear oil when I get home. I do still use Mobil 1 in the 80 series transfer, but I have been tempted to try the Delo since that's what I carry with me offroad.
Cruiserdrew I got the 5 gallon bucket of chevron delo gear lube I'll be using it in the transfer case to clean it out for a little wile then switch to M1, thinking of staying with the delo in the diffs long term,
I was wondering how to get it in the truck, did not quite want to go with the Slee pig setup, although very nice a bit overkill for a shade tree, then read this thread
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000822
and today assembled this
the left side is the lnlet with a heavy fitting to get it to sink to the bottom of the bucket, tubing is 3/8's ID the black thing in the middle is a drill operated fluid pump, took some copper pipe and bent a "hook" in it so hopefully it will stay in the fill hole un-attended (I'll be back at the 5gal container pumping so it needs to stay in by itself)
I'll let you guys know how it works out next week
I was wondering how to get it in the truck, did not quite want to go with the Slee pig setup, although very nice a bit overkill for a shade tree, then read this thread
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000822
and today assembled this
the left side is the lnlet with a heavy fitting to get it to sink to the bottom of the bucket, tubing is 3/8's ID the black thing in the middle is a drill operated fluid pump, took some copper pipe and bent a "hook" in it so hopefully it will stay in the fill hole un-attended (I'll be back at the 5gal container pumping so it needs to stay in by itself)
I'll let you guys know how it works out next week
<<. . .hopefully it will stay in the fill hole un-attended (I'll be back at the 5gal container pumping so it needs to stay in by itself)>>
I would lengthen the input hose enough to monitor the fluid level as you pump. Wouldn't want you to waist a couple quarts on the floor before you notice the diff's full!
I would lengthen the input hose enough to monitor the fluid level as you pump. Wouldn't want you to waist a couple quarts on the floor before you notice the diff's full!
Wow, I like it.
Is the pump self priming?
I think I need to build this if it works.
Is the pump self priming?
I think I need to build this if it works.
[quote author=boydmick link=board=2;threadid=11288;start=msg111960#msg111960 date=1077934335]
<<. . .hopefully it will stay in the fill hole un-attended (I'll be back at the 5gal container pumping so it needs to stay in by itself)>>
I would lengthen the input hose enough to monitor the fluid level as you pump. Wouldn't want you to waist a couple quarts on the floor before you notice the diff's full!
[/quote]
The instructions with the pump say to have the suction side as short as possible so I made it long enough to reach the bottom of the bucket plus some extra, makes sense, even if the inlet of the pump makes a complete vacuum (it wont) you still only have 14psi air pressure to move the fluid to the pump, I should have no problem seeing the diffs from outside the truck, the transfer case fill hole might be harder to get an eyeball on
[quote author=Riley link=board=2;threadid=11288;start=msg112014#msg112014 date=1077941889]
Wow, I like it.
Is the pump self priming?
I think I need to build this if it works.
[/quote]
yes it is self priming, according to the directions you are suppose to put a teaspoon of the fluid to be pumped in the pump to seal and lubricate it as it primes, I took it apart it is the same as a windshield washer pump, it has a rubber disk with many little flaps the chamber between the little flaps grab fluid from the intake side and carry it to the outlet where an obstruction smushes the flaps down pushing the fluid into the outlet simple and cheap, hopefully the rubber will be ok with gear oil if not this will be a one use pump, it says not to be used with gasoline acids or other hazardous/flammable liquids other than that it gives no indication of fluid compatibility
I’ll let you know how it goes, the guy in the other thread seamed pleased with his and this one is very similar
<<. . .hopefully it will stay in the fill hole un-attended (I'll be back at the 5gal container pumping so it needs to stay in by itself)>>
I would lengthen the input hose enough to monitor the fluid level as you pump. Wouldn't want you to waist a couple quarts on the floor before you notice the diff's full!
[/quote]
The instructions with the pump say to have the suction side as short as possible so I made it long enough to reach the bottom of the bucket plus some extra, makes sense, even if the inlet of the pump makes a complete vacuum (it wont) you still only have 14psi air pressure to move the fluid to the pump, I should have no problem seeing the diffs from outside the truck, the transfer case fill hole might be harder to get an eyeball on
[quote author=Riley link=board=2;threadid=11288;start=msg112014#msg112014 date=1077941889]
Wow, I like it.
Is the pump self priming?
I think I need to build this if it works.
[/quote]
yes it is self priming, according to the directions you are suppose to put a teaspoon of the fluid to be pumped in the pump to seal and lubricate it as it primes, I took it apart it is the same as a windshield washer pump, it has a rubber disk with many little flaps the chamber between the little flaps grab fluid from the intake side and carry it to the outlet where an obstruction smushes the flaps down pushing the fluid into the outlet simple and cheap, hopefully the rubber will be ok with gear oil if not this will be a one use pump, it says not to be used with gasoline acids or other hazardous/flammable liquids other than that it gives no indication of fluid compatibility
I’ll let you know how it goes, the guy in the other thread seamed pleased with his and this one is very similar
