Center Diff Light Fix - My Experience

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Has anyone experienced a “sticky” CDL button in the dash? I used mine frequently in the last couple of weeks. Then, one day last week the button stayed pushed in - it didn’t pop “out”.

So I pried the button off and used needle-nosed pliers to pull the actual actuator out to turn the CDL off. Now, the button just rests on the actuator, and I take it off before engaging the CDL. The CDL works just fine.

Anyone experience this and have a fix?
 
I'm going to attempt this fix tomorrow. Got the Beck/Arnley 201-1788 part. My Transfer case makes a sound when I engage the center diff but light doesn't come on in the dash. I think it is engaging.

I do have a question.
The repair manual shows 3 switch locations for the transfer case. How do we know which one? I was just going to first try the 11oclock position one from the earlier post picture.
 
Does anyone know if the part number Beck/Arnley 201-1788 backup lamp switch for the front and rear is the same? The look the same, I just wanted to make sure. Thanks
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I’m having trouble with the circuit. Anyone find something new besides replacing the switch?


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Wow, this was much more of a pain than I thought it would be. I could put my 1&1/16" socket on but not the ratchet. Local stores only had 1&1/6" combo wrench so I tried that and it was perfectly in the wrong orientation. The angle of the open end and the box end made nothing work.

I tried cutting it in half and, with the amount of play it had, I couldn't get a good push on it before running out of room. The 10" adjustable had the same issue.

Ordering a wrench seemed like the last option, but I found a socket lever--basically a small breaker bar--that was $10 with overnight shipping. I had to stick a short pipe on the end of the handle and use the O2 sensor bung as a class 1 lever. I think a socket lever (or really low profile ratchet) with about 10" of handle and 27 mm socket would be perfect. Then you could just come from the front (not very creative 😂). It can't be a shallow socket, because the sensor connector, and it can't be deep, because the limited vertical space.

TLDR: It's located on the front top of the transfer case, 11 o'clock. When you buy the switch, buy the 27 mm wrench everyone said worked so well. It's a 10 minute job with the right tool. The heat shield is sharp... don't slip.
 

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