Center Diff Light Fix - My Experience

[NC-Grayson]

Greetings. When I bought my '98 LX, the center diff lock light did not illuminate on the dash, when pressing the button or putting the transfer case into low. I'm posting this because in my searches to find a fix, I found a lot of good advice but it was kind of all over the place and there were a handful of unanswered questions so I thought I could offer some clarity.

First and foremost, this page, which was linked in a thread here on mud, was really my go to. It's about as awesome of a DIY as they get.

Lexus LX470/Toyota Landcruiser 4WD Center Differential Lock Transfer Indicator Switch Problem

In a quest to save some monies, I searched the Google for the toyota part number, 84222-12010, and I stumbled upon some threads in the 80's section here on mud. A lot of those guys were having similar issues wih their CDL and rear lockers. Some of those guys used a car parts store brand part and had good results so I thought I'd try it on my LX. The cheapest I could find the oem switch online was $65.99 before shipping.

I ordered the Beck Arnley 201-1788 "Back Up Lamp Switch" from Amazon, $18.12 shipped. It solved the problem.



This thread isn't a DIY, because like I said earlier, the link posted is great for that, but hopefully this will help future folks in their searches for a fix.

For me, a 12" 27MM combination wrench was the tool that got the old sensor out. I had a hell of a time fitting my fat hands up there without slicing my wrists to bits, but the box end of the wrench was where I found success. All I needed was a few inches and a tiny bit of leverage to get it broken loose just a hair, the rest of it spun freely with my fingers. I didn't take any pictures, but I had the best angle coming from the passenger side, feet to the rear, wedging my arms between the front propellor shaft and the razor sharp exhaust heat shield.

Hope this helps some one, some day.

 

[sonk76]

Did you lower the transfer case at all when you did this, or just reached in with everything in place?

Also, did you disconnect the sensor from the wire before trying to unscrew?

Thanks

 

[vcrusher]

I also have the same issue (just posted). Did you have issues with the 4wheel drive? When I make slow U turns on mine it feels like a truck on 4wheel making turns on asphalt. Kind like a grab, skipping feeling. Any issues on yours like this?

 

[NC-Grayson]

Did you lower the transfer case at all when you did this, or just reached in with everything in place?

Also, did you disconnect the sensor from the wire before trying to unscrew?

Thanks

Should have mentioned that. I did not lower the transfer case at all, I just wedged my hand up in a pretty tight spot until I got the job done. I disconnected the sensor with my fingers, albeit not easily, before I got the wrench on it.

I also have the same issue (just posted). Did you have issues with the 4wheel drive? When I make slow U turns on mine it feels like a truck on 4wheel making turns on asphalt. Kind like a grab, skipping feeling. Any issues on yours like this?

Should have mentioned that too....I was having no problems with 4wd. It was just at the lexus dealership last weekend and they verified everything was working properly, just the sensor wasn't working. the tech actually told me that it was my light on my gauge cluster, not the sensor, but I knew better.

I did learn though that the switch on the dash itself does move in and out to different depths VERY minimally for on/off. If you're having issues and your light isn't coming on, check to see if the switch is in the depressed position. It's hard to tell, but on my truck the button moves in just slightly when it's engaged.

 

[sonk76]

Thanks for the clarifications. I ordered both the Beck Arnley 201-1788 and a 12" 27MM combination wrench online. Will have them tomorrow and give this a go.

 

[sonk76]

First off. I love this place -- all the people sharing their insights and wisdom for the benefit of all. It's awesome!

Following the advice on this thread, and the ones referred to here, I too was able to fix my CDL indicator issue in ~25 minutes.

As part of this experience, I would second the importance of the 12" 27MM combination wrench for this job -- without this, I don't think there is any way in which I could have gotten this done.

Btw, for reference, a local Lexus dealership diagnosed the issue as faulty indicator lights in the dashboard, which would require a new instrument cluster (which would need to be sent back to Japan for programming) at a cost of at least 1 week in time, and more than $1,500... which, based on what we've observed here, would have not even fixed the issue!

Thank you!

 

[NC-Grayson]

Congrats!

 

[devildogcruiser25]

Going to tackle this soon. Any more tips?

 

[BradH]

I did this project earlier this week using the Beck Arnley part. It's pretty straightforward other than the access to the part and getting/keeping the wrench on it to loosen the old sensor. Took me about 20 min all-in and fixed the problem. Thanks to the OP for the write up and for finding the part interchange - saves time and money!

 

[guerasfj60]

Thanks to the OP. If it doesn't bother you too much, bending the heat shield a bit really helped get access. I dealt with the shield until I needed to fully seat the connector.

 

[auh]

Can anyone provide me with some insite on how to do this job? That link isn't working for me.

 

[Jrod]

Search for @yeti in ga build thread. He gave a detailed write-up for the fix.

 

[slacker24-7]

Bringing this one back to thank. @NC-Grayson for the research and substitute part number..it’s now a little over $14.00 shipped https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-201-1788-Back-Switch/dp/B001KSCYCI?tag=ihco-20it took me a minute to locate the switch on the tcase but found this thread as noted above, Yeti’s Cryptid Hundy Build which says on page 13 it’s by the FRONT output at the 11:00 position. I just bent the heat shield, did the switch and bent it back, no big deal and maybe 15 min at most .

 

[tacoduck]

thread bump... was wheeling this weekend and my center lock didn't work. bought the part on amazon, and a 12 inch 27mm box wrench. I can't get the wrench on the 27mm nut. too much s*** in the way. any other options?

EDIT- Bought a 27mm socket and replaced the plug. diff lock still no work. Realized that antenna up/down button and hazard light button were also dead. Traced it back to the recent bluetooth install. Installer pulled it apart and realized he didnt plug it back in. Truck is fixed...

 

[PearlLX470]

First of all, thank you for all the posts! I knocked this out this afternoon with Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 201-1788 Back Up Lamp Switch: Automotive and Powerbuilt 644062 Metric 27mm Raised Panel Combination Wrench - - Amazon.com. The heat shield has two nuts holding it in place, and I removed the rear nut to move the shield out of the way and then hugged the transfer case right are from the back and left arm by the heat shield to remove wire connection, and it made it easier for me to seat the wrench. It looks like everything works as it should now.

Love ih8mud and what each of you contributes! Thanks again.

 

[JDWCruiserMS]

Just ordered the parts on Amazon! Hoping to having his squared away in a few days...

So just for my anxious piece of mind... step 1: remove heat shield bolt... step 2: locate sensor and remove connector... step 3: run my long ass arm up in there and seat the wrench ... step 4: remove sensor... step 5: doing steps 1-4 in reverse

Am I good on what’s about to go down?

 

[Rizon25]

I have this wrench that I used to unscrew it. I didn’t have to remove the heat shield, just kinda bent it outta the way and fit this wrench on.

 

[AFei]

Just replaced mine with Beck Arnley 201-1788 and issue fixed.
I used this Husky 27MM wrench from HomeDepot, and the ratchet end helped a lot.
I removed the heat shield and there were enough room to put

 

[hiteckredneck]

Super helpful guys! I just fixed my CDL light by replacing this switch as well and using the Powerbuilt 27mm wrench via Amazon. Was a pretty tight squeeze even with my girly hands, but got it done in less than a half hour.

For anyone wondering - I did this with the CDL unlocked. I thought I had read someone mention it should be locked, but saw no other mention in any of the 2-3 threads that were referenced, so I did it unlocked and it seems to operate fine.

 

[dwh13]

To clarify - my CDL seems to work (I can hear a relay click when I push the button and I can still get out of sticky situations easier after engaging it) but my dash lights (CDL, VSC companion lights) don't illuminate. Is this the same symptom y'all experienced? Or was your CDL not working at all?