Center Diff Light Fix - My Experience

[Boss Hog]

Has anyone experienced a “sticky” CDL button in the dash? I used mine frequently in the last couple of weeks. Then, one day last week the button stayed pushed in - it didn’t pop “out”.

So I pried the button off and used needle-nosed pliers to pull the actual actuator out to turn the CDL off. Now, the button just rests on the actuator, and I take it off before engaging the CDL. The CDL works just fine.

Anyone experience this and have a fix?

 

[Thor45]

The Beck Arnley 201-1788 Back Up Lamp Switch and Husky 27mm combo wrench have been in the garage for over a year, but I'm overjoyed that the CDL indicator light is back.

Same for me.

 

[take123]

I'm going to attempt this fix tomorrow. Got the Beck/Arnley 201-1788 part. My Transfer case makes a sound when I engage the center diff but light doesn't come on in the dash. I think it is engaging.

I do have a question.
The repair manual shows 3 switch locations for the transfer case. How do we know which one? I was just going to first try the 11oclock position one from the earlier post picture.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Does anyone know if the part number Beck/Arnley 201-1788 backup lamp switch for the front and rear is the same? The look the same, I just wanted to make sure. Thanks

 

[B1oodyBuzzard]

I’m having trouble with the circuit. Anyone find something new besides replacing the switch?

VSC TRAC VSC OFF

I’m troubleshooting the VSC lights on the dash and can’t get them to turn off. I have had a few different codes intermittently triggering for O2 sensor and speed sensor but the only code I can’t clear is C1340 Center Diff Lock. If I press the lock button on the dash I do not get the indicator...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ODSTbee]

Wow, this was much more of a pain than I thought it would be. I could put my 1&1/16" socket on but not the ratchet. Local stores only had 1&1/6" combo wrench so I tried that and it was perfectly in the wrong orientation. The angle of the open end and the box end made nothing work.

I tried cutting it in half and, with the amount of play it had, I couldn't get a good push on it before running out of room. The 10" adjustable had the same issue.

Ordering a wrench seemed like the last option, but I found a socket lever--basically a small breaker bar--that was $10 with overnight shipping. I had to stick a short pipe on the end of the handle and use the O2 sensor bung as a class 1 lever. I think a socket lever (or really low profile ratchet) with about 10" of handle and 27 mm socket would be perfect. Then you could just come from the front (not very creative ). It can't be a shallow socket, because the sensor connector, and it can't be deep, because the limited vertical space.

TLDR: It's located on the front top of the transfer case, 11 o'clock. When you buy the switch, buy the 27 mm wrench everyone said worked so well. It's a 10 minute job with the right tool. The heat shield is sharp... don't slip.

 

[BWolfe]

The Beck/Arnley part 201-1788 and a 27mm wrench did the trick for me. Considering it took 15 minutes and now my CDL light works, this has been the best value repair I’ve done yet.