Center Arm Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[kunzma]

Then the center arm shaft support. I had to clean out the powder coat from the inner surface where the large castle nut passes through. Also used some anti-seize here and on any threads. My setup had a large, thin washer that goes next. Then the double nut and cotter pin.

 

[kunzma]

Flipped the unit over. Pumped a good molly grease into it at this point and could observe the grease come up through the spirals. Then installed the white dust seal, dust cover, and anti-seize.

 

[kunzma]

Installed the unit in the upper bracket with the thick washer and small castle nut with cotter pin. Installed two new M8 x 45mm to attach the center arm shaft support to the frame. Used a good molly grease on the bearings and anti-seize on everything else.

My kit was from SOR. It didn't include a new shaft. I was lucky mine still looked good. I didn't damage it trying to remove it. The kit did include a rubber O-ring that I couldn't find a place for it to go. The SOR website has a diagram that shows the O-ring on the shaft support but that seems odd. It also had two new metal races that require pushing out the old ones and pressing in new ones. The old ones seemed in good condition so I left them in.

 

[Bear]

Kunzma,

I think your photos may cause confusion with your comment on the metal dust cover caps installation.

The diagram on the previous page agrees that the larger metal cap goes on the top over and around the recess on the bellcrank housing and the smaller cap goes on the bottom slipping up into the bellcrank housing. Some of us more visual folks may gloss-over your writing, only looking at the photos, and believe the photos indicate the proper placement.

If I am in error, please advise.

 

[kunzma]

Kunzma,

I think your photos may cause confusion with your comment on the metal dust cover caps installation.

The diagram on the previous page agrees that the larger metal cap goes on the top over and around the recess on the bellcrank housing and the smaller cap goes on the bottom slipping up into the bellcrank housing. Some of us more visual folks may gloss-over your writing, only looking at the photos, and believe the photos indicate the proper placement.

If I am in error, please advise.

Agree whole heartedly.
Updated my pictures.

 

[120mm]

I know this is an old post, but I think this is a crucial maintenance items on FJ40s/55s so needs updated.

When driving the old races out, it appears as if Mr. T has provided special slot on two sides of the race to facilitate driving them out with a punch. Super easy to just put the arm in a vice and drive them out from the back side.

I noticed that on the Shop manual diagram and in reality, the top bearing has a bevel cut in it to clear the bevel on the retainer cast into the pin. My replacement bearing from Kurt was flat, so leaves about a 1/16" gap. Wondering if this is a critical dimension and how it will affect wear, or should I cut a bevel into the bearing.

 

[120mm]

At this point I realized I build flintlock rifles by hand and grabbed a brass file and spent about an hour and made it fit.

 

[Malleus]

@cruiseroutfit What's the reason for the difference between the OEM bushing and yours? Shouldn't threre be a relief to clear the radius on the shaft, under the flange?

 

[120mm]

@cruiseroutfit What's the reason for the difference between the OEM bushing and yours? Shouldn't threre be a relief to clear the radius on the shaft, under the flange?

I bet all of the aftermarket bushings are that way.

It's actually not a big deal to cut the bevel.

 

[Malleus]

Yeah, maybe, but that part only fits this one shaft. And every one of these shafts are made the same way. Chaps my *** to have to finish making parts I buy from someone.

 

[120mm]

Yeah, maybe, but that part only fits this one shaft. And every one of these shafts are made the same way. Chaps my *** to have to finish making parts I buy from someone.

After consideration, now I'm mad.

It was $155 plus tax and shipping of Wrong Part.

Kinda expensive for a couple bearings, races and pieces of felt, if one of the bearings is cut wrong.