CEL 71 - Where am I? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BTLSHP
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- Thread starter
- #22
Okay, clipboard in hand I have been working through the CEL diagnostics. I got to the end of the "mechanical" section and confronted the wiring diagram for the engine. I began simply by locating the major connectors and found something immediately.
The locking tab for connector EZ1 is missing. Pulling it apart I could see visible corrosion on the terminal surface. I used contact cleaner and re-assembled the connector. I have done test drive on EG-229 2x without getting the CEL. Fingers crossed.
I also re-did the front bearings, the outer passenger bearing was heavily pitted and I found a service 7 years ago that mentioned tightening the hub to address a loose bearing.
Finally, I got an el-cheapo copy of the AC Delco EVAP canister and installed it. No more hissing at the gas cap. I am keeping the original and at some point I will rebuild it. The fit of the AC Delco is okay, not great.
I feel like I am coming to the end of this "re-fresh."
The locking tab for connector EZ1 is missing. Pulling it apart I could see visible corrosion on the terminal surface. I used contact cleaner and re-assembled the connector. I have done test drive on EG-229 2x without getting the CEL. Fingers crossed.
I also re-did the front bearings, the outer passenger bearing was heavily pitted and I found a service 7 years ago that mentioned tightening the hub to address a loose bearing.
Finally, I got an el-cheapo copy of the AC Delco EVAP canister and installed it. No more hissing at the gas cap. I am keeping the original and at some point I will rebuild it. The fit of the AC Delco is okay, not great.
I feel like I am coming to the end of this "re-fresh."
- Thread starter
- #23
OK, a little embarrassing but I think I have a problem and an issue.
The EGR Temp sensor has a measured resistance of 304k on a 70 degree day in the shade. The range is supposed to be:
"2. INSPECT EGR GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
the terminals.
Resistance:
69 - 89 k at 50 C (112 F) ----- No accurate measure
11 - 15 k at 100 C (212 F) -----98k measured
2 - 4 k at 150 C (302 F -----29k measured
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor...."
Also, of note, is the temperature probe was completely insulated with carbon. I had a hard time getting it off because I do not have a vise.
My reading suggests the temps sensor rarely causes a Code 71, I would like to replace it and understand that I am looking for NTK EA0070(?) and the original Toyota part is 89412-50010. I see some reference to it being NLA, but I can find it locally but not at Partsouq.
Make Sense?
In terms of the FSM tests, the system passes all the cold engine tests, and fails all the hot engine tests. I hav not pulled the upper IM to get at the VSV. I did measure 33.6 ohms resistance at the harness and was able to get the solenoid to fire freely with a 9v battery.
An issue:
I am also "concerned" about the modulator - Blue cap. With the two original filters blowing though Port Q, while holding "P" and "R" the cap did not vent "freely." Taking out the lower disc filter it breathes fairly wll.
While hot, I have no clue what "considerable resistance" means, it is at least considerable if not completely closed.
Applying vacuum to the lower port, it is clear the membrane is intact. Applying light air pressure with a bicycle pump and blowing into "Q" while holding "R" and "P" there is no flow through the cap.
The EGR Temp sensor has a measured resistance of 304k on a 70 degree day in the shade. The range is supposed to be:
"2. INSPECT EGR GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
the terminals.
Resistance:
69 - 89 k at 50 C (112 F) ----- No accurate measure
11 - 15 k at 100 C (212 F) -----98k measured
2 - 4 k at 150 C (302 F -----29k measured
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor...."
Also, of note, is the temperature probe was completely insulated with carbon. I had a hard time getting it off because I do not have a vise.
My reading suggests the temps sensor rarely causes a Code 71, I would like to replace it and understand that I am looking for NTK EA0070(?) and the original Toyota part is 89412-50010. I see some reference to it being NLA, but I can find it locally but not at Partsouq.
Make Sense?
In terms of the FSM tests, the system passes all the cold engine tests, and fails all the hot engine tests. I hav not pulled the upper IM to get at the VSV. I did measure 33.6 ohms resistance at the harness and was able to get the solenoid to fire freely with a 9v battery.
An issue:
I am also "concerned" about the modulator - Blue cap. With the two original filters blowing though Port Q, while holding "P" and "R" the cap did not vent "freely." Taking out the lower disc filter it breathes fairly wll.
While hot, I have no clue what "considerable resistance" means, it is at least considerable if not completely closed.
Applying vacuum to the lower port, it is clear the membrane is intact. Applying light air pressure with a bicycle pump and blowing into "Q" while holding "R" and "P" there is no flow through the cap.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
1) I'm not really sure how you get a vise on top of the intake to remove that sensor. I use a wrench.
2) They are always covered in carbon from the oil in the PCV hose. Carbon Off is the only thing I've found that will remove carbon without damaging the underlying metal at all. You might try Easy-Off. Spray it into a glass container (like a half pint jar) and stick the sensor into that.
3) You also need to clean out the galley in the intake between the sensor and the EGR valve.
4) Once it's clean, and not before, take the resistance measurements.
As to your "issue": the manual indicates you blow through the pipe by mouth. You'll feel the resistance that way. Toyota had no intention of requiring a pump with a gauge to perform the test; that's why there's no backpressure value. If the modulator doesn't vent as assembled, it doesn't work.
2) They are always covered in carbon from the oil in the PCV hose. Carbon Off is the only thing I've found that will remove carbon without damaging the underlying metal at all. You might try Easy-Off. Spray it into a glass container (like a half pint jar) and stick the sensor into that.
3) You also need to clean out the galley in the intake between the sensor and the EGR valve.
4) Once it's clean, and not before, take the resistance measurements.
As to your "issue": the manual indicates you blow through the pipe by mouth. You'll feel the resistance that way. Toyota had no intention of requiring a pump with a gauge to perform the test; that's why there's no backpressure value. If the modulator doesn't vent as assembled, it doesn't work.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Looks like 1.2kW to me.
- Thread starter
- #26
Okay, think I will order the 2.0kW
I have been using Berryman's for carbon. High PEA content
The IM passages were cleaned in July. Very plugged up and now very clean.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
An oil bypass filter will take care of that permanently.
FWIW, the 1.4kW (I mistyped) is more than enough to start the engine. The only thing a 2.0kW has over it is cost.
FWIW, the 1.4kW (I mistyped) is more than enough to start the engine. The only thing a 2.0kW has over it is cost.
- Thread starter
- #28
Ok, I had my mind on the car being in Denver....and the mountains. But I am happy for save some money.
I have been wondering about the role of catch cans in all of this. I can imagine the oil laden vapors mix with the EGR gas creating a paste.
It will stress the emissions test if they open the hood, but her S/O is good enough with a wrench.
I have been wondering about the role of catch cans in all of this. I can imagine the oil laden vapors mix with the EGR gas creating a paste.
It will stress the emissions test if they open the hood, but her S/O is good enough with a wrench.
- Thread starter
- #29
"1) I'm not really sure how you get a vise on top of the intake to remove that sensor. I use a wrench."
I have not been able to get free with a wrench. So, I used a vise to carefully hold the EGR Valve so I could get more leverage
I have not been able to get free with a wrench. So, I used a vise to carefully hold the EGR Valve so I could get more leverage
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
We're talking about two different things. The sensor is on the driver's side of the intake. The EGR valve is on the passenger side of the intake. The big EGR nut can be PITA to loosen. Soak it with penetrating oil every day for a week and it'll come off. This is one of two items that need NeverSeez. Use it sparingly; if you see it when you tighten the nut, you used too much (boiler fitters will disagree, but this is an engine, not a boiler).
Once this nut is free, remove the two studs with a Torx socket. Don't try to remove the nuts, you'll be there all day. This is in the service manual.
Once this nut is free, remove the two studs with a Torx socket. Don't try to remove the nuts, you'll be there all day. This is in the service manual.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
If it bothers you, you can remove it for the test. The idea is to use two PCV hoses and fit the catch can between them. This way you don't really alter the piping layout, and it's reversible.
- Thread starter
- #32
Ok, It is the little wire/14 mm nut on the EGR valve. Yes, the first time I took that valve off was a nightmare. Got a big 32mm wrench to turn is 5 degrees after several days of PB Blaster.
This is the sensor I am testing now (double check) cleaned it with B-12 Berryman's because it was nicely insulated with carbon.
Yes, I will go with one of the catch can setups to limit the oil vapors in the intake. Looks easy enough to remove for emissions.
Ordering a new Modulator, I suspect new temp sensor as well.
This is the sensor I am testing now (double check) cleaned it with B-12 Berryman's because it was nicely insulated with carbon.
Yes, I will go with one of the catch can setups to limit the oil vapors in the intake. Looks easy enough to remove for emissions.
Ordering a new Modulator, I suspect new temp sensor as well.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I used a 10-inch crescent wrench. I was too cheap to buy a 32-mm wrench I was only going to use on that nut.
Make sure you check the harness side too. The specs are in the manual.
Make sure you check the harness side too. The specs are in the manual.
- Thread starter
- #35
In the upper right is what a believe is my EGR VSV. I have struggled because I was trying to reconcile the black wires in position 1 & 2 in the FSM wiring diagram. That said I got 9v on the two terminals in the connector and my vacuum gauge directly on the black solenoid port, when I fired the solenoid I could hear click and tried but failed to pull a vacuum. I am concluding the VSV is failed.....resistance is at 41 ohms.
- Thread starter
- #36
I am trying to figure out how people replace the VSV without pulling the intake. I can see one bolt from underneath and can feel the second from the driver's side. My concern is getting at the wires and the vacuum lines. It is clear people have done it, but there is very little in the way of notes.
I suspect that removing the TB will give me access with long pliers.
I suspect that removing the TB will give me access with long pliers.
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- Thread starter
- #37
Ok, I change the VSV and am cautiously optimistic. I successfully completed the FSM drive cycle @Malleus provided with no CEL. The old VSV would hold a vacuum momentarily when energized. The new one holds vacuum until the VSV is de-energized.
I hope that is it. Because except for replacing the front speakers this Series 80 is ready for Denver.
I could not do the replacement through the Driver's side entry to the upper IM, so I took the throttle body off. It was still not a pleasant job. I was terrified of losing that little mounting screw.
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