Castor Plates Installed

[Trapper]

So I finally got around to installing my castor plates this weekend. Overall, not too difficult of a job. My experiences were similar to Tyler. The steering improvement is remarkable. Its hard to remember what stock steering was like but I'm pretty sure this is close. No more vague, sloppy steering on the freeway.

I did notice that at full droop the tie rod appears to be contacting the control arms. It appears ok at normal driving position. In the instructions Slee states this might be an issue on some trucks. I guess now I have to break out the grinder again and get to work on the front arms. Has anyone else experienced this complication of the plates? If so how did you address it?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I had exactly the same issue. 90% of the contact is gone by grinding off the casting ridge from the control arm. When you grind, grind further forward than you think you need to. It will still make contact when you hit a bump in a turn. Per Slee's instructions, I did weld the front of the plates just so they don't move around at all.

I would say for $100, it's a good mod, but I'm saving for the new control arms.

 

[AMMO]

I do have a solution for your issue. Slivercruiser had the same issue w/ the plates and tie-rod rub. I corrected it with a mod. PM me and I’ll spill the beans; I don't want to look like I’m out for self profit, due to a vendors product. It's a mod I've done with out the plates for other reasons, just happens that it solves this issue to boot with no grinding.

-Matt

 

[T Y L E R]

Trapper , do have an audible , singular click when you initiate a turn now ? I do .. I assume it is the control arm contact issue . So far I've delt with it by ignoring it ..


TY


PS : Full droop ? Whats dat ?

 

[landtank]

I do have a solution for your issue. Slivercruiser had the same issue w/ the plates and tie-rod rub. I corrected it with a mod. PM me and I’ll spill the beans; I don't want to look like I’m out for self profit, due to a vendors product. It's a mod I've done with out the plates for other reasons, just happens that it solves this issue to boot with no grinding.

-Matt

Just post it up with pics

 

[Trapper]

Tyler - I haven't been able to listen for a click yet. Its been pouring down rain since I installed the plates. I'll put an ear to it this morning. I like your way of dealing with the problem. It saves me a trip under the truck with the grinder.

Cruiserdrew - So after grinding down the top ridge on the arm, 90% of the contact is gone. How bad is the remaining 10%? Are you getting any binding or other noises from up front when you drive/wheel or is it just when you hit bumps in the turn?

Ammo - I'm sending a PM your way.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I do have a solution for your issue. Slivercruiser had the same issue w/ the plates and tie-rod rub. I corrected it with a mod. PM me and I’ll spill the beans; I don't want to look like I’m out for self profit, due to a vendors product. It's a mod I've done with out the plates for other reasons, just happens that it solves this issue to boot with no grinding.

-Matt

Matt, no problem with posting it. The contact issue is one that is a compromise. if we went with less correction we would not have the contact issue. However for 4" of lift the correction is correct, so what do you do. Also strange that on some trucks it contacts and some not.

I would also like to see what you came up with. One option is to heat and bend the steering arms up slightly. NOT RECOMMENDED FOR STREET TRUCKS. However we have done heated and bent those arms up on a trail truck. I also know what some people that have cut and turned the knuckles have done so to avoid the same problem.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Cruiserdrew - So after grinding down the top ridge on the arm, 90% of the contact is gone. How bad is the remaining 10%? Are you getting any binding or other noises from up front when you drive/wheel or is it just when you hit bumps in the turn?

The remaining 10% is livable, there is no binding and it isn't a hard contact that would break the TRE. I still don't like it. Silvercruiser sent me his old tierod, and I noticed it had similar scrape marks. I'm not sure if that was from the stock set up, or from the Caster plates.

 

[Trapper]

It's good to hear that there isn't any binding after the grind. I can live with some minor scuffing. Its all a compromise at this point. I definately don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere and snap a TRE.

 

[Trapper]

Oh Tyler, I listened on the way in this morning and couldn't appreciate any audible clicks or pops. I'll still keep an ear open though.

 

[T Y L E R]

Thanx for the feedback Trapper . I've thought about it a bit since yesterday , and I think the best way to describe my particular noise is like this .. keeping in mind the noise actually happens early into initiating a turn .

It's similar to when you try and make a really tight turn in a parking lot .. turning the wheel full lock . At some point as you tug on the wheel you get that subtle noise like something is about to bind . Hard to describe .. not a click per se .. just an audible stress indicator .


I'll get under there and look for scuffs ... funny cause I've been driving around with my grinder on the passenger foot well for a couple months ..


TY

PS : AMMO , lets see whatcha got for the sake of discussion dude ...

 

[AMMO]

First a question...

Are you guy's sure your hitting on the arms or could it be the back of the pumpkin? If you get down and look under you rig the tie rod snakes between the two... I have PM those who PM'd me. As requested i will snap some shots.

-Matt

 

[Beowulf]

Just post it up with pics

What he said....

-B-

 

[AMMO]

Ok here you go.

It's basically a new tie rod set up. I did it on my rig for other reasons then this topic, but it seems to be an answer for this issue. Slivercruiser had the same issue w/ rub and once he did this set up he had no more rub. As I said before, check to see of it's the arms and not the bottom of the diff. As Christo said, it's strange that this is an issue only w/ certain cruisers. I'm not saying that this is a fix all, just sharing my experiences. This is a kit that is available through Link Motorsports, just some friends, I see no profit, and I just got to name it.

Ammo Tie Rod Kit
Chromoly Tie rods w/hymes and misalignment spacers all bolts and nuts included.

I did this set up for ease of trail repair after busting a rod end on the trail and wish boning a rod. Not fun to get a rig w/ no steering off a rocky trail...

Any Q's just ask.

Last Note: The kit that christo has is great should you need more adj than that of the OME bushings. This is not a ploy against his product in any way.

Hope this helps,

-Matt

 

[Trapper]

First a question...

Are you guy's sure your hitting on the arms or could it be the back of the pumpkin? If you get down and look under you rig the tie rod snakes between the two... I have PM those who PM'd me. As requested i will snap some shots.

-Matt

I'm positive I'm hitting the arms and not the diff. While I had the truck on jacks and the wheels off you could see at full droop the rod connect with the arms. I guess though with the truck back on the ground I didn't look at the pumpkin. That gives me something else to do this afternoon.

 

[concretejungle]

I'm a bit confused on one thing here.......how could the rod hit the diff at all? The rod is connected in a parallel fashion to the axle, as the axle rotates/twists/articulates, the rod should make the exact same motion in the same plane, no?



EDIT: now that i think about it, i can see it maybe tap the diff/thirdmember when there is a sudden torque, and axle wrap, but i doubt it's much. That's the only way i could see it hitting though.

 

[alia176]

How has the ends help up in a daily driving rig? How long has it been in service?

 

[woody]

It's basically a new tie rod set up. I did it on my rig for other reasons then this topic, but it seems to be an answer for this issue. Slivercruiser had the same issue w/ rub and once he did this set up he had no more rub. As I said before, check to see of it's the arms and not the bottom of the diff. As Christo said, it's strange that this is an issue only w/ certain cruisers. I'm not saying that this is a fix all, just sharing my experiences. This is a kit that is available through Link Motorsports, just some friends, I see no profit, and I just got to name it.

Few comments on this (works nice, but...)

The tie rod sees miminal change in angularity, there should be little reason for misalignment washers in the setup. There IS a need for some type of washer from a safety standpoint, and mis-washers do that nicely. Misalignments would be needed for the drag link if used there, probably more than a normal washer would allow tho.

Heim's are "notoriously" weaker and less safe when used in a single shear situation. Tie rods are the correct and guaranteed DOT safe use in steering. I have "been told" that heims for steering will not pass a visual inspection. Heims will loosen quicker than tie rod ends, are not greasable (and if they are, they are weak POS's). Heims are also very poor at shock loads from certain angles...lower your rig too quick and allow the tie rod to hit the jackstand and you'll junk the heim quick (been there, done that....). A properly-rated heim will easily run you $30 each.

That said, I DO run a single-shear heim at my pitman on the FJ40 for clearance issues, but carry not only a spare heim but also a spare bolt.

I'm a little surprised that running a slightly bend tie rod wouldn't solve the issue just as easily....Scout's came from the factory with a tie rod that ran 6", offset a couple inches down for a couple feet, then offset back up to the other knuckle. With enuf beef (.250 wall or so) it shouldn't be an issue. (and Scouts is heavy buggers too....)

 

[AMMO]

Few comments on this (works nice, but...)

The tie rod sees miminal change in angularity, there should be little reason for misalignment washers in the setup. There IS a need for some type of washer from a safety standpoint, and mis-washers do that nicely. Misalignments would be needed for the drag link if used there, probably more than a normal washer would allow tho.

Heim's are "notoriously" weaker and less safe when used in a single shear situation. Tie rods are the correct and guaranteed DOT safe use in steering. I have "been told" that heims for steering will not pass a visual inspection. Heims will loosen quicker than tie rod ends, are not greasable (and if they are, they are weak POS's). Heims are also very poor at shock loads from certain angles...lower your rig too quick and allow the tie rod to hit the jackstand and you'll junk the heim quick (been there, done that....). A properly-rated heim will easily run you $30 each.

That said, I DO run a single-shear heim at my pitman on the FJ40 for clearance issues, but carry not only a spare heim but also a spare bolt.

I'm a little surprised that running a slightly bend tie rod wouldn't solve the issue just as easily....Scout's came from the factory with a tie rod that ran 6", offset a couple inches down for a couple feet, then offset back up to the other knuckle. With enuf beef (.250 wall or so) it shouldn't be an issue. (and Scouts is heavy buggers too....)

Woody brings up very good points, and again I’m not saying this is the fix all answer. My rig is NOT a daily driver, except to get around town on the weekends and out to the trail head. I have had this set up for about a year now and I am very please with its performance. Again I did the set up for trail repair. The heims are of the expensive kind and are what the bearing manufacture recommended for the application. Not sure about state laws, as far legality goes I’m sure it may vary.

-Matt