caster correction (1 Viewer)

[GARYB2]

Update. With the yellow I was 1.6 on the driver and 1.0 on the passenger. with the blues I am 2.3 on the driver and 1.8 on the passenger. The drivers side sits 3/4 of and inch lower than the passenger, I assume this is what is causing the difference. I double checked the springs last night and the spring labeled B is on the driver side. Any suggestions?


Thanks,

Gary

I have ome 850 heavy springs up front and 860s in the rear. I have an arb winch bumper with a warn m12000 winch. I recently installed the ome caster bushings with the land tank template and got the caster checked. it is at 1.6 now with the yellow bushings. I know everyone shoots for the 3 degree mark. Will the slee blue bushings put me there or do I need something else?


Thanks,


Gary

 

[landtank]

Slee's will do it. Any plans to go higher?

 

[GARYB2]

Not anytime soon. Eventually would like to move up to 35's.

 

[landtank]

that would be the only reason to go to a plate. So Slees or FOR 3* bushings will do the job.

 

[GARYB2]

Thanks for the help Rick, sending you a pm now.

 

[fishwater]

not sure what tires you're running, but i have the exact same set-up (except winch is an M8000) on 34" tires and blues put me right at 2*. just fyi.

 

[GARYB2]

Running 305/70/16s right now.

 

[gotmud]

What about ditching your OME bushings and going with OEM's and Rick's plates? BTW, that's what I did last week, and my rig never handled so well!

 

[GARYB2]

Thought about it, but Rick said it was not necessary unless I went bigger.

 

[Ebag333]

Thought about it, but Rick said it was not necessary unless I went bigger.

You generally are off about 1* of caster per 1" of lift. IIRC Rick's is a 7* adjustment, so you'd want about 5-9" of lift to do it (give or take a bit).

 

[landtank]

You generally are off about 1* of caster per 1" of lift. IIRC Rick's is a 7* adjustment, so you'd want about 5-9" of lift to do it (give or take a bit).

Actually caster is effected at a rate of 1.74* per inch of lift and the amount that any correction method yields in measured caster is less than the amount it moves the axle.

So my plates rotates the axle 7* but only yields 5* of actual change in the caster measurement.

 

[alkaline747trio]

Because rotating the axle back to correct caster also aligns the spring correctly to give the max lift possible. This mean you will also gain height in the front slightly when you correct for caster which in-turn negatively affect caster.

I vote bushing and the weld-on plate from that australian company that moves your axle forward by moving the frame mounting hole forward. This would also properly align your axle fore/aft in the wheel well allowing for 35's to be stuffed, with minimal to no rub.

 

[landtank]

there is no reason to use the weld on plate if you use one of my templates. My templates maintain the axle distance on the arms from the rear frame mount.

It's when you install the bushings according to the manufacturers instruction or pivot the axle on the rear arm bolt that shortens that distance.

 

[gotmud]

With heavies + 1", new OEM bushings, and Rick's plates mine handles better than it did in stock form. Plus the extra height from the plates made things almost level. Nice design Rick

 

[Lockd97]

With heavies + 1", new OEM bushings, and Rick's plates mine handles better than it did in stock form. Plus the extra height from the plates made things almost level. Nice design Rick

Exactly where I am at and can't be happier!

 

[alkaline747trio]

there is no reason to use the weld on plate if you use one of my templates. My templates maintain the axle distance on the arms from the rear frame mount.

It's when you install the bushings according to the manufacturers instruction or pivot the axle on the rear arm bolt that shortens that distance.

Yes, the arm is the same length and has not been effectively shortened, but the location of the tire/axle in the wheel well has been altered by lifting the vehicle. Putting it further forward allows a larger tire to stuff before coming in contact with sheetmetal.

 

[landtank]

Yes, the arm is the same length and has not been effectively shortened, but the location of the tire/axle in the wheel well has been altered by lifting the vehicle. Putting it further forward allows a larger tire to stuff before coming in contact with sheetmetal.

I don't believe so. I have Slee's 4" lift and the center of my axle is only 2" lower than that of the rear mounting bolt. So in stock form the axle would actually be higher than the rear mount. So the furthest most forward position would be somewhere in between the two. I'm guessing that my axle is close to that of the stock setup in relation to that of the body, only it extends forward on compression where as the stock one moves rearward.

As another point, correcting caster in other ways has created problems with the springs catching on the front of the inner bumpstop towers where mine don't. I believe this is more evidence of how the axle is being shifted rearward on the arm and is what that plates is adjusting for.

 

[alkaline747trio]

I don't believe so. I have Slee's 4" lift and the center of my axle is only 2" lower than that of the rear mounting bolt. So in stock form the axle would actually be higher than the rear mount. So the furthest most forward position would be somewhere in between the two. I'm guessing that my axle is close to that of the stock setup in relation to that of the body, only it extends forward on compression where as the stock one moves rearward.

As another point, correcting caster in other ways has created problems with the springs catching on the front of the inner bumpstop towers where mine don't. I believe this is more evidence of how the axle is being shifted rearward on the arm and is what that plates is adjusting for.

That factory designed rearward movement of the tire through the arc is what I'm talking about. Re-locating the most rearward position of the tire through the arc is what I am looking to do because IME this is where rubbing occurs.

Your plates do a fine job of getting things back to stock geometry, what I'm talking about is modifying factory design geometry for the purpose of fitting larger tires. I would imagine that your plates + moving the axle forward ~1" would yield excellent geometry and locate the tire more usefully in the wheel well.

 

[gotmud]

...I'm talking about is modifying factory design geometry for the purpose of fitting larger tires.

Is this even neccessary unless you are running 37"+ tires?

 

[alkaline747trio]

Is this even neccessary unless you are running 37"+ tires?

Yes if you want 35's to fit with flares on....and I'm sure it helps with wider, more offset wheels and wider tires.