Caster correction w/Jsprings and L shocks

[SEABASS]

Withthe caster not being corrected fully with the OME caster correction bushings with the afore mentioned setup ,what will my drivability be like especially on the freeway?
Also besides extended brake lines and drop blocks and brackets is there any other parts I need to consider?

I appreciate all advice and welcome it with open arms. Peace SEABASS

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Withthe caster not being corrected fully with the OME caster correction bushings with the afore mentioned setup ,what will my drivability be like especially on the freeway?
Peace SEABASS

Herding sheep

 

[Waggoner5]

Phil, you're killing me......Actually my 80 with Js and castor correction bushings drives pretty good. No problems on the hwy. If I didn't have 2 trucks with 6 degrees of castor, I would probably not know the difference. I will be doing a cut and turn on it in the future though.

 

[SEABASS]

Thanks for the knowledgable reply Phil oh and also that other reply

 

[Junk]

Hey Seaguppy - how's about reading through some of the prior posts using the SEARCH feature eh?

Either that or ask the folks you are buying your lift from, assuming they know hint hint hint - hint=only buy your stuff from folks that know what they are talking about.

 

[cruiserdan]

No two 80's react the same way when lifted. Certain vehicles will tollerate more lift than others. Caster affects the vehicle steering's ability to "return-to-center" much like the front wheels on shopping carts. The more you have, the stronger the urge to return to center when the steering wheel is released.

As caster is reduced the vehicle will begin to wander and will need to be steered out of turns. In extreme cases the vehicle can also become "twitchy" and may dart. It can be a handful to drive. I would not let an inexperienced driver hop in a lifted 80 without caster correction. They will get into trouble.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

SEABASS Your 80 with Jsprings and no caster correction bushings will have negative caster. Factory 80 spec is 2 – 4 degrees positive caster. What this mean is if you draw a vertical line thru your turnion bearing its vertical axis will forward of plum (0 DEGREES). You want the axis to be leaning back 2 – 4 degrees for factory spec. I agree with Waggoner5 that even more caster will push your LC down the road even straighter. With negative caster your tires are always trying to go in different directions and braking will be even worst.

Like I said herding sheep…you will find out soon enough.

Welcome aboard

Phil

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Just for my own information... How many (if any) 80 series owners have had their front axle cut-and-turned (knuckles rotated)? I have only done 1 of them (compared to countless 40/55/60 and once in a while 62's)... I think as 80's become a little cheaper to buy used, more will start building them to the extent 40's and 60's go... thus the need for rotated knuckles...

Anyone? How many degrees?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

SEABASS, quick question?

How come you don't run the Caster Correction Bushings? Price? Install Difficulty? Used Kit?

Just wondering...

 

[cruiserdan]

Just for my own information... How many (if any) 80 series owners have had their front axle cut-and-turned (knuckles rotated)? I have only done 1 of them (compared to countless 40/55/60 and once in a while 62's)... I think as 80's become a little cheaper to buy used, more will start building them to the extent 40's and 60's go... thus the need for rotated knuckles...

Anyone? How many degrees?

I think a cut and turn may cause tierod clearance issues.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I think a cut and turn may cause tierod clearance issues.

Very good point Dan, it can be rotated a small amount, but nothing like an older Cruiser/mini axle... That is why I was wondering if anyone had done it...

 

[SEABASS]

Cruiser out fit I will be running the bushings ,just some concerns as to the safety of the vehicle when the caster isnt fully brought back to stock, it is a daily driver.

Thanks for all the good info I appreciate it.

 

[Pyro-boy]

I think there is a 3 degree castor bushings available from Austrailia.

Vince

 

[Waggoner5]

You can buy 3 degree bushings in Aus, and that maybe the way to go. The cut and turn that JJ has on his 80 does not interfere with the tie rod, so it may be that it was only rotated 3 degrees or so.
If it were me, I would buy the OME bushings and drive it. My wifes drives just fine. Only in 1 case have driven a J sprung truck that needed more pos. castor than the OME bushing could give it. Here is a link to one of the guys in AUS.
G

http://www.bigballsoffroad.com/category78_1.htm

 

[ginericLC]

I used to think I was OK with just the OME caster correction. Then I rebuilt my entire front axle. Now it wanders more than before. I think my trunion bearings were shot and holding it up a bit. Now that everything is new and fresh and greased it steers a bit quicker and wanders a bit more. I don't feel that it is to the dangerous point and I drive it everyday. My wife drives it all the time too. I know caster plays a big deal in all of this. But I can make my rig handle like crap on the highway just by running the wrong air pressure. I think when you have a bunch of mods each one does a little, it is hard to know which one to point the finger at. I think for me the ability to stop is my weakest link, 35s and drums in the rear.

 

[Tooth Fairy]

My 80 w/ J's and 1 inch spacers is fine for me and my wife drives it everyday. No complaints so there has gotta be like what Cdan said a lot of variability per vehicle.

*Cut and turn* or slot and rotate?
I think most of the time all you have to do is slot the front control arm mount and rotate the housing and reweld it w/ a little fab work. (search would bring a lot of results here)

Most times I think before someone would go through the trouble of cutting and turning the knuckles they build or buy custom control arms to deal w/ caster.

 

[cruiserdan]

I would get Christo's control arms long before I would cut and turn.